JazzScreamer

Here are a few pics of my AA products. The Arsenals are each run by Zed Audio Miniliths. They have handled everything I've thrown at them. They are enclosed in a .75 sealed box. The POLY's are being run off a ZedAudio Draconia. The POLY's are an incredible little speaker. I'm running those @ 50-3.5k. The low end really helped tie in the sub to midbass range. Thanks M5/// for the advice. Excited to see Chad joining us!!! -Bob B

I own the 9813 and love it. It has 4v pre-out (unlike the 2v they have now) A 5 band variable parametric eq. (you can also change the bandwith to pinpoint certain freq),X-over's for front, rear, subs, and time alignment. I even use the MX (Media Expander for some of my XM and mp3 files that I listen to. You have to be a bit careful with this setting as it can boost the mid to sub bass too much if your not careful. Lots of great features. I think you will get lots of play out of this one.

I would vote for the Zed Draconia. Great clean power. I opted for the Burr Brown chip, Steve said it would be the way to go if your looking for SQ. Your also have many option as far as crossover set-up.I reccomend going to the site and reading the manual and features his amps have to offer. Zedaudio.com

I agree, no band that I know has the band out front and sticks there bass player in the back of the room. Although I've played with some bass players that should just be left out of the room. hahah. I did pull the midbass down to 46hz (lowest point of the Zed Amps) and it sounded fine. I have it a 50hz for safety right now till I can get a bit more listening to them.

So I thought I would post some pics of my sub boxes, amp rack, and door pods. I'm still a slight newbie at this (especially fiberglassing, but I think things came out quite nice considering I did this in my apartment. The sub boxes have an AA Arsenal 10" sealed, the amp is my Zed Draconia with the BurrBrown chip and the doorpods have a pair of AA POLYS. Sounds awesome!!] Some of you may have seen these pics before.. My screenname used to be Texas Edition.

Well, I messed around with the polarity on the system. Switched the mids polarity and sound bad Switched the subs polarity to match and it sounded bad. So basically everything stayed the same. I did mess with the crossover point with the AA's. Man these things can get low. I now have them at around 50hz and like the front stage even beter. Seemed to blend in the whole system even better than what it was. I may have to adjust the EQ on the subs now and pull the Q a bit lower now. We'll see what happens. Thanks for the advice.

Flakko, I have one that I built for the set-up I spoke to you about in my other thread. I'll try and send you some pics of the build. they don't look pretty but they work. Let me know.

I will definatly give it a shot. I know that I have the Subs polarity swithched on one. When I spoke to Steve at Zed he suggested that (not sure exactly why). Could you explain? I 'll let you know what I find out about the mids.

Flakko, I think the 3k -3.5k range is best for these speakers if your going with a 2 or 3 way set-up. I've discussed this with Chad a few times and he suggested to me a crossover point between the 3-3.5k with a 18db slope. Now this was with his Vifa XT's combined with it, so this would vary with you tweeter choice. As far as the 4.5k problem, I don't know. I do know that Chad builds the POLY's with a slight dip at around 1k. That 's around the range where things can sound a bit tinny (like you talking into a metal trash can).

The tweeters I'm using are CDT's ES-100 and TW24/LP. The 100's are in the doors just above the AA's andt eh TW24 is in my A-pillar. I wasn't sure about this set up. I previously had the Vifa XT25 in the doors and them moved them into the A-pillars. Problem with them being in the door was that the sound stage was just below my chest and when I moved them to the A pillars, I felt like I knew where the sound was coming from (as if there were a gap). So I went with pair of CDT's to fix the problem. I'm really liking it so far. The ES-100's are a bit mellow and the TW-24 are a bit brighter adding a bit of space and airy ness to the soundstage along with bringing it up and out in front of me. The L-pad for the TW24 is nice. I can really tune into the sound and presence I want in the sound stage. As far as the HP at 60hz on the AA's, I would go lower but I have my subs crossed over at that point and not sure if I will get some cancellation issues or not. I'm not to worried about overexcusion with the POLY's. They are just mid/midbass speakers. I guess I'll mess around with them some more later this week and give an update.

Everything sounds great with them. I have them bumped up just a tad at 80hz and notched down a tiny bit at 1k ,but over all I like the sound of them. I assume that you might be having some problems with yours. If so, tell me. I'd be very interested in what you have to say. Thanks!

If you throw me some pics of what you want done, I can probably help you out.

I'm using the active crossover on the Draconia. It's great to have a bandpass mode on the amp. It's crossoved over at 3K with a 4th order slope. AA Polys are running at 60hz at the low end.

I do Like the CB accents to it. I ordered way too much of the stuff and just started putting it where I could. I thought it would tie everything together. The Subs are running off a pair of Zed Mini's. I was thinking of putting some LED's between the AA logo (to light up just the AA logo)for a bit of bling, but I'm still not sure. Thanks for the compliments.

Here are the specs for the Mini. Steve stays pretty true to his word when it comes to his amps. I'm running two Mini bridged to a pair of AA Arsenals. I don't run them very hot, I know they can handle the power and the crossover and EQ is fantastic on his amps. Hope this helps. Typical Continuous Output power into1 ohm 650wx1 Typical Continuous Output Power into 2 ohm 480wx1 Typical Continuous Output Power into 4 ohm 260wx1 Continuous Output Power 2 channels bridged into 2 ohm 1,200w x 1 Continuous Output Power 2 channels bridged into 4 ohm 800w x 1 Continuous Output Power 2 channels bridged into 8 ohm 400w x 1