pimpdaddy1787

Ok, so now I'm hooked. I have the 2 12" zcon's in and the 2500d. Now I want more. Have an eye on a ns-1. What will I need to do for a competition box? Keep in mind that I do have a s-10 extended cab 3 door and it is a daily driver that I want to make into a competition truck. Current box is supposedly 4.75^3 at 36hz? I think the hz is correct. Have to double check. It was designed by ram-designs. It's a angled back or trapezoid style box. Top is 14x43, bottom is 20x43 and it is 18 tall. I come uP with 5.4^3 after sub displacement. What do I need to do? What is the difference in a comp box vs a ported box?

So the other nite I got some new dubstep songs, flux pavilion is the bomb. Played sweet for a couple days, really hittin the lows. Then today I noticed it sounded different. Like hollow. First thought was something came loose or broke. I pulled the subs out. What a chore. They are heavy as shit. Nothing wrong. Wiring good. Baskets good. Coils still bronzish colored. Tinsels good. Ohmed both subs. 3 voice coils at 1.0, and last one at .9 everything good rite? Then tonite I was playing some more to try and see what was wrong. I noticed the box is seperatong at the top. Where the top meets the sides. I can put my fingers on it and feel the vibration from the top moving. I have screws every 3" or so and it is also glued with industrial strength construction adhesive. What else can I do besides build another. It's made out of 3/4" mdf and was designed by ram designs. Has a full brace inside like another endcap inside that is cut out to 1 1/2" all around. Then the port comes in 24" I think. Screwed and glued from front wall to back wall. Are these subs too much for the box? 2 12" 1 ohm dvc zcon's runnin on a saz2500d at 1 ohm. Any help please

I am thinking a lot on redesigning. What would be the best way to have subs/port facing? Subs up, port up is what i was thinking. I would like the subs behind the seats, and the port in the middle. I'm not good at designing but I do know I want more!!!!!!!

So this is what I am thinking. For my 2 zcon's I need more. They want more. Currently have a 2500d but was thinking of going with a 4500d. Or maybe even 2 2500d's strapped. Only problem is, zcon's are 1 ohm. Every where I look, for strapping u want 2 ohm. Which way should I go?

Would a saz4500d do good for the 2 of them? And how many batts would I need. Have a 270 mechman, soon to be 270+300 dcpower, big 3 in 0 gauge, 2 runs of 0 gauge to the 31m marine diehard platinum in the bed

Any way u can send me dimensions or specs on box? I have a 98 s-10 3door that I need a new box for the zcon's. Sounds awesome bro.

So tonite I set my gain and ssf according to the thread on here. Only questions are, when getting rms for 2 zcon's, do I add both together, or just what amp says. Amp is a saz2500d. 1 ohm says 2500 rms. square root is 50. Set amp output to 50 vac. Then took 50*.707=35.35. Turned ssf up till voltage dropped to 35vac. Questions are, is that correct? Or do I then readjust gain back up to 50?

That's really the most of it? Wow

Would using an o-scope be better if I know how to use one? What do you think would be a good price to sell a dd1 at? I'm going to sell mine

Ok. Tomm I'm going to get another 250amp fuse and holder. These things are getting a bit on the pricey side. But oh well. Also today I rechecked the output voltage on the amp to recheck the gain. It was at 82.1 on 28. Wtf. Don't know how. I reset it to 50.9, closest I could get it to 50. Then played bass ballin for 15 min straight with no issues. Whew hew. Never never could do that. Also while I had the box loose, I put the dd1 omit and it told me I could go another 1/4 turn before clipping. Wtf. Piece of junk. When I did this, after 15 seconds breaker tripped again. Never will I use this thing again. I am always going to use the voltage method

Ok, so after doing the voltage setting of the gain, I figured I need around 50 volts for the saz2500d running at 1 ohm. Currently at 40 till I get the inside done with bracing. Problem is, when I turn volume up to 29-30, after 10-15 seconds the circuit breaker up front for the positive run of 0 gauge trips. Then the amp goes into protect mode. Am I drawing that much current that I need to run another run of 0 gauge? Have a 31m diehard platinum in the rear, all 0 gauge, and a 270 mechman. Big 3 in 0 gauge and all frame grounds. Amp ground is only 16" or so to frame.

Ok. Tomm I'm going to get another 250amp fuse and holder. These things are getting a bit on the pricey side. But oh well. Also today I rechecked the output voltage on the amp to recheck the gain. It was at 82.1 on 28. Wtf. Don't know how. I reset it to 50.9, closest I could get it to 50. Then played bass ballin for 15 min straight with no issues. Whew hew. Never never could do that. Also while I had the box loose, I put the dd1 omit and it told me I could go another 1/4 turn before clipping. Wtf. Piece of junk. When I did this, after 15 seconds breaker tripped again. Never will I use this thing again. I am always going to use the voltage method

Anybody?

Ok, I will put a fuse in place,but why the protect? Gain is not even halfway. Could it be the subs?

i do have a stinger volt meter which has been calibrated with 2 fluke 88V meters. Cb trips at 13.6-7. cb is mounted on underside of ECM bracket. The side in which the air flows across bracket to cool ECM. I checked as soon as trip happened and cb was reading 91° No way. Both pos and ground are encased in PVC pipe which was the heated and bent slightly to allow mounting along frame. Pre bent before cable put in. every time I go above 28 on volume

13.6-7 before, 12.5-6 after it's getting power from rear batt. Cb is on front batt

So here is the story. I finally have all of the stuff I need to install my saz2500d. Took box out, 4.75^3. Big for my s-10 3 door. Basically an extended cab with a door. Have the zcon's ready to drop in. Put empty box back in to see where I could put my amp and this is where I run into a problem. Box goes from floor to 2" below back window. From driver side door to 5-6" from other side. With subs installed there is 12" of room on top of box. Amp would hang over about 5" or so. The port is on the passenger bottom. If I mount it on the box overhanging the open port side, would that be a problem? What about mounting it inside the box? The port is 20" wide and 24" long. Plenty of room on the "shelf". Would that be possible? I've run out of ideas and now my truck is partially torn apart. Help

You didn't mention inside, I did. But subs fire up, and port on lower passenger side.

Whew hew. Thanks for all the help everybody! Got another 15 foot of 0 gauge today. Just got done runnin 0 from back batt+ 26" to amp, gotta get another fuse. 0 from back batt - 12" to frame. Turned amp 180° so power at end near batt. Ran 0 from amp - 12" to frame. Screwed platforms 2" on back of box and 6" on front to level box and give me an additional 1" of Clarence above amp. Drove and got up to 26 with voltage only going to 13.8-9. Never got to this before. Couldn't put windows down because of storm goin on right now, but I can tell its already way better. Thanks again. Now just gotta brace, brace, brace.

Ok. So I put the zcon's and the 2500d in. Now when I set the gain using the dd1 till I can get ahold of my friend with the oscope, the voltage goes down to 12.5. I have a mechman 270, big 3 in 0 gauge, ran the pos and neg from front to rear batt in 0 gauge, installed fuse in front, fuse in rear, soldered all connections. Rear batt is a diehard platinum 31m marine agm with 205 reserve, but yet when I turn volume up to around 30 out of 35, amp goes into protect mode and volts drop to 12.5. (Radio was o scoped at 40hz and 1k hz and had no clipping evident)Even at 1500 rpm. Am I missing something or is the saz2500d drawing that much amperage? Also speaker wire was 14 gauge. Also ran out of 0gauge so from rear batt to amp was 4 gauge till tomm when I can get some more 0gauge.

I will keep a infra-red heat gun with me in the truck. What's an ok temp range? If needed I have a bunch of 12v 3" fans out of a some computers I had, that move a lot of air

^^^ mounting the amp inside the box.... lmao not a good idea... vibration = bad So under the box with 2" of free airspace, bolted to floor is not good?

Ok, so how do I brace properly. Can I bolt the box to the back of the cab? Seems that is where most of the rattling/vibration is coming from. Not trying to look too far, but never had a sub/amp/box combo that hit this hard before. Never experienced "flexing" like this before, never had to run another battery or get a 270 amp alternator. Watching the back window move like it does kinda scares me. That's why I ask questions on this forum. That's why I joined this forum. For experienced people like yourself to chime in and help me. As I said, never been this deep before and I do apologize for thinking too much

Wow?

Amp is on floor below box. Figured out if I raise box 2", there is 2" of room between amp and box. Also the airflow from the port serves as air across amp. I was worried about back window or side windows bursting