Jason Witt

Try to run a jumper between the remote wire input and the power input, See what happens then. EDIT: Do this with your HU off on the amplifier.

Have you inspected your wiring completely looking for pinches or shorts? Are the signaling cables good?

How do you have it wired? Have you checked your fuses?

Take what bar off?

Electrical upgrades may be needed.

Typically poly fill is used in sealed enclosures. There are many calculators to help you figure out how to tune your enclosure properly. I highly doubt you will get 4 gauge wire into any sub terminal.

depending on the way it is mounted you could just shim it(add some washers on the bolt behind the alternator to make the uneven side stickout further) Oddly enough I tried that, and I think it just made it worse. There was just too much pull on an already weak bracket.

I currently have a Mechman 270a in my 2004 Dodge Neon SRT-4 and it's going through belts like crazy. I have checked pulley alignment, tension, and have done everything I can think of to solve it. This only happens when the alternator is under a load when I play my beats. I have roughly 600 amps of draw with nearly 12,000 watts of battery reserve. It does the squealing the worse at idle, and actually tears these belts at higher engine speeds. I use the good Gates belts, but they don't last more than a few weeks. I have had trouble with this alternator several times and had to send it back three times, and swapping these belts, and especially the alternator in my car is a HUGE pain in the ass. Any ideas why this may be happening? I would like to solve this mystery before I have to swap for another alt. Thanks guys. If you need more information I haven't mentioned just ask.

Lol, I think they are blowing smoke up your ass. Most flip out screens fail due to the motors giving out from normal use. I have never seen one fail from bass, but that's just in my experience.

Do you play music with your engine off?

http://www.the12volt.com/wiring/recwirsz.asp

When you starve your amp for power by having too small of wire it will effect your entire electrical system. Larger wire, some good SOLID grounds and good connections will improve your issue. The more resistance you have in your power wire the harder it is for voltage to push the current along the outside of the strands putting strain on your amp, and hindering the ability for the current to be delivered upon demand. For a garden hose reference, it would be like kinking the line and slowing the water down.

It would still be a double baffle if you counter sink the subs.

I won't run Kicker because I've had problems with their amps, but I know people who swear by it just like any other brand.

Check your connections. Especially grounds and signaling. What are you running?

Sounds like it would be more trouble than it's worth unless you want to go above 12v electrical.

I do not doubt the insides are different, I know they are. I never have doubted the quality of RF either, but there are pros and cons with any product. If it were my money, I would get the Crescendo for the power and the fact that they aren't bad amplifiers, and for the price compared to power I think it's the better buy between the two.

Who knew the letters RF are worth half of the value of the amp? Might be a bold statement but for more than twice the power for the same price, the Crescendo would be a no brainer.

Hello!

I would get a Crescendo. The SSA store has plenty to choose from.

Look at my signature..

Hell yeah man! Can't wait to see them play.