Robert_J

You have the Qes as 38.0. It should be .380. But I would use the parameters from the Dumax Report. Those should be much more accurate. Qes is close but Qms is half of what PE states in the description.-Robert

Polyfil will give you a 10% to 12% increase. You won't get close to the 1.3cf required for the 15". And getting the Le (inductance) helps a little when modeling. The box size has the biggest impact on output though.-Robert

I've had experience with both the Dayton DVC12 (I built a small, sealed home theater sub for a friend) and with the Cerwin Vega V-Max subs. The V-Max, at least the older models with the red surround, sound great. They are a great bargain. I used a pair of 15's in my home theater and a pair of 10's in a friend's car. But they definitely want to be in a ported box. Don't get hung up on getting the absolute last watt from your amp. The sub you pick and the box will have more impact than the difference between 400w and 600w. Model each sub with the amp's power in either WinISD or Unibox. That will give you a very good indication of how loud each gets. You will get a boost due to cabin gain but it will be the same no matter what sub you pick. So the loudest modeled sub should be the loudest in your car if that's what you are going for. -Robert

By changing the wiring, you are not actually changing the Qts directly. You are changing the Qes (the electrical Q). Qms (mechanical Q) stays the same as well as the rest of the parameters. Qts is the relationship between Qes and Qms so naturally it will change when the Qes is changed. Here are the parameters I gave boardpile over at AVS:Ascendant Audio Atlas 12 (low Qts) Fs 23.20 Hz Re 2.80 Ohm Qms 4.90 Qes 0.35 Sd 481.0 cm2 Vas 128.5 l Xmax peak 18.00 mm Ascendant Audio Atlas 12 (mid Qts) Fs 23.20 Hz Re 2.80 Ohm Qms 4.90 Qes 0.47 Sd 481.0 cm2 Vas 128.5 l Xmax peak 18.00 mm Ascendant Audio Atlas 12 (high Qts) Fs 23.20 Hz Re 2.80 Ohm Qms 4.90 Qes 0.58 Sd 481.0 cm2 Vas 128.5 l Xmax peak 18.00 mm Ascendant Audio Atlas 12 (6ohm) Fs 23.20 Hz Re 4.20 Ohm Qms 4.90 Qes 0.24 Sd 481.0 cm2 Vas 128.5 l Xmax peak 18.00 mm When modeling in Unibox, the 6 ohm setting yields the lowest Qts. Even though it isn't measured, the Bl is probably the highest since both coils are not getting power. It was the model driven to xmax with the lowest power. -Robert

Use a DMM and check the VC resistance as you slowly push the cone down. If there is a break in the tinsel, you may see the resistance drop to zero (or change to infinite depending on your DMM) if the circuit is broken. If you do need a replacement and John doesn't have a good deal, the Dayton 12" DVC from Parts Express is the closest thing to a Shiva still available. In fact, it performs better than the Shiva in smaller boxes. Both the old Shiva and the Dayton DVC are built by Eminence. -Robert

I'm the one that sent the OP here. Here's the driver info from the WayBack Machine - link. T/S parameters are in the link above.-Robert

There is no such thing as component audio. There is component video. That is the 3 cables that are normally red, blue and green. HDMI carries audio as well as video. What are you trying to connect to your TV?-Robert

Those baskets don't use 10" spiders. Fi can easily build a recone kit for them with the parts they have now. -Robert

Are you talking about the Eclipse style basket? Like the Audiopulse Revo? Or the standard 12 spoke basket? I've seen Eclipse subs with both. You can re-use your standard 12 spoke basket. -Robert

At least they are coming. That gives me time to tap the motors and paint the baskets. -Robert

Like Jybfan04 said, that would be for conversion from the 4 hole mount to the 6 hole mount to match the 12 spoke basket. I have a huge drill press that I've been using since 1983 and a tap/die set. Drilling a few holes doesn't bother me. I will have to drill and tap the side mount holes in my neo magnets. I'm in the process of designing a jig so I can get the holes identical each and every time.-Robert

Is it a DVC or a QVC TC-3K? The old web page is here. If you are using the DVC, then make the box about 10% larger than recommended since the BL is slightly lower. -Robert

I should have mentioned the BOX that the sugar packets came in. Not the packets themself. I thought that was obvious but considering the types of posts I sometimes read online I shouldn't leave out even the obvious details. Here's a pic.Any more than 6 shims and it becomes difficult to push the coil down into the gap. This provides enough support so that it holds the entire recone assembly without sliding down. I have to gently push it down into the gap. And 6 shims can be evenly spaced when centered on the 6 mounting bolts. -Robert

The Cleanbox was tested over at AVS Forums and found to have significant bass rolloff around 20hz. It's not as transparent to the audio signal as it was once thought to be.To the OP, how do you have the EP-2500's DIP switches set? I was missing a lot of low end at first (first 10 minutes) until I found I had the high pass filter turned on and the filter was set at 50hz. I turned the filter off and was overwhelmed with low bass. And I also use RCA to 1/4" mono plugs. It's a cheap test if you want to try them instead of XLR. -Robert

recones are quite easy but take a bit of patience and concentration. plus if you don't get it on right the first time well, your basically fudgeed after the glue dries and could possibly need a new recone kit. That's why I went with the slower drying epoxy. Just to give me more time. I didn't need it. 20 minute would work fine. Anything less than that and you better be an expert reconer.Also, shims were not included in my recone kit. I made them from a of the Kroger version of Equal artificial sweetener. 1" wide by 7" long. Six of them fit perfectly into the gap. Bend them in slightly at the top so you can quickly drop the cone in and get all 6 inside of the voice coil. Since there are six, I align each one with one of the 6 bolts holding the frame to the motor. That makes sure they are evenly spaced. Here are my steps: 1. Test fit the the kit using the shims. This ensures that everything is even and you can practice getting all 6 shims inside of the coil. 2. Remove the shims. 3. Mix the epoxy. I use a small plastic container. The kind you get from a restaurant when you order salad dressing on the side. 4. Spread the epoxy around the surround landing and the spider landing. I used the full tube of epoxy for an 18" sub. Don't drip any in the motor! If you don't trust yourself, cover the motor gap with a circular piece of cardboard. 5. Remove the motor cover and evenly space the shims in the motor gap. 6. Line up the tinsel leads on the kit with the terminals on the basket. It would suck if you had the leads on the wrong side. I work with the terminals on the basket next to me. That way I know how it is oriented. 7. Carefully push the kit down onto the shims and into the motor gap. 8. Line up the cut-outs for the bolt hold on the surround with the bolt holes on the basket. Make the final push until the surround and spider touch the glue covered basket. 9. I use a single finger to press the surround into the glue. Press, move 1/2" and press again. Repeat until you cover the entire circumfrence of the driver. 10. Then I carefully push down on the center of the cone a little. This seats the spider into the glue. 11. I add a weight onto the center to hold everything. For my 18's I used an RE 8" sub. 12. Wait. Don't rush things. My epoxy said everything would be cured in 24 hours. I waited 48. 13. I'll add dust cap instructions after I install them. -Robert

I used Loctite Etra Time 60min 2 part epoxy. It looks like snot but holds great. You never see it anyway.-Robert

If I remember correctly, it's a standard 3" VC with a standard 6 bolt pattern. The TC7/Eclipse subs used the 12 spoke baskets. I think I have one or a very close cousin to it. Here's a link to the old page - link.-Robert

T/S parameters can vary widely based on how Scott builds the recone kit. For example, if he uses an Assassin kit, the mechanical parameters would be the same as the Assassin. But the electrical parameters would be different since the Frankensub uses a different motor.The good SQ is motor based. The TC2+ has a lot of copper to keep the inductance down. Small boxes? Depends on the motor strength. The TC2+ was the next to weakest motor in TC Sounds linup. I had some IB 15's that used the TC2. The TC2+ was a monster compared to that little thing. But it got the job done. Scott, I assume that the quote doesn't include a basket. What's a 15", 12 spoke basket run along with the kit and shipping to 38672? I'd also like to get two more 18" IB recone kits. I'll send you the complete order to your Sales e-mail address. -Robert

I've built two of the four 18" subs I have parts for. It was a minor pain to get the parts but I think it will be more than worth the trouble. I may get parts for two more 18's so I can have a total of six in my theater room.-Robert

what do you know! Bump again...... I saw Scott logged on last night and thought about bumping this.-Robert

There's a few Ebay stores that sell CV recone kits. Not the generic foam but certified CV replacements. Try it again before you swap out your speakers for something else. -Robert

Check out the DIY section of htguide.com. Those guys have dozens on different designs based on the Dayton RS series. If you want to save a little money on your first build, then the Dayton Classic series drivers are no slouch either. I'm running the Dayton II's and the Dayton III's (plans are at the PE Showcase). Since you mention 8's, there's also a plan called the Dayton 8. link 1 link 2 A few guys at ICIX built these as well. Nothing but great things to say about them. For comparision purposes, are the RS designs worth the extra money? Maybe. The guys that designed them are hard core audiophiles. Follow their design and you will get a world class set of speakers. Are the Classic designs good? Absolutely! They are not up there with the RS designs but they will beat the crap out of anything sold at Best Buy and Circuit City. -Robert

bld 25, The TC2+ is a 2" coil. I have three 12's based on the TC2+ motor. You can also check out the specs of the Soundsplinter RL-i series since it uses the TC2+ motor as well. Pics (used without permission from a guy at another forum): http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c253/bel...r8/_W9G6448.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c253/bel...r8/_W9G6444.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c253/bel...r8/_W9G6445.jpg You are correct that the power handling will be in the 400w to 500w (thermal) range. Mechanical power handling will vary by box alignment and size. Recommended box size will vary by soft parts used. Scott, Will the 2" coils recones become a "standard" option or just for a limited time? As I have two Lambda Acoustic subs with 2" VC's that need a recone as well as the option of getting the TC2+ motor in the pics above. -Robert

It does. It's all here in the manual (in the downloads section on the right). Pay attention to the DIP switches. Mine came with the high pass filter set at 50hz and turned on. I missed that when I first set it up. I spent a whole day troubleshooting when a simple flip of a switch gave me bass.I'm running one to power a pair of TC-3000 15's @ 2 ohms. According to the amp test thread at AVS Forums, the Behringer puts out about 840w @ 2 ohms @ 20 hz. That's almost 1/3 less than the rated power but it's still a great bargain. I put a resistor on the fan to slow it down and reversed the flow. It's still audible during quiet parts of movies so I'm going to replace it with an extra quiet 24v model (~$15). -Robert

I've seen the idea pop up a few times over the last 10 or 15 years. It never catches on though. Art is very personal. My tastes may not match yours. That means the company doing this must have a huge selection. Second, in-wall speakers are not the most popular. Famous paintings that would be popular require licensing agreements. Huge selection and low popularity of the speaker means you can't get large volume price breaks from a factory or reach economies of scale if you are producing the product yourself. Even though you use some type of acoustically transparent cloth, it still has an effect on the sound. By adding multiple layers of paint via a silk screening process would just block more of the the highs. In fact, to get proper sound reproduction, you should not use a speaker grill at all. Good idea that has failed numerous times. -Robert