Robert_J

Go with 18's. Four now, along with a BFD and an EP-2500 will run about $1200. Use a Radio Shack SPL meter and Microsoft Excel to plot your sub's frequency response. Later add the hardware for Room EQ Wizard ($50 mic, $200 sound card, mic cable & MIDI cable). Then you can get more accurate with your calibration. I'm going with four 18's and may go to six. Why wonder if you are getting the best best bass possible. -Robert

It has dominated the news for the last two weeks. It's either MLK or the Tiger basketball team. The people participating in the march this morning were a little wet. We have been having massive storms since last night. Hey Dex. Welcome.-Robert

I read an interview with Paul Klipsch in Speaker Builder Magazine. He ran his Klipschorns with 25w each. -Robert

Based on a thread from December, the price is $58 plus shipping. Baskets & terminals are extra. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...mp;hl=tc2\ -Robert

I'm not sure what a TC2K+ is. There's a TC2+ motor that has been around for years. Audiomobile Evo, Stryke Audio AV series, Rythmik Audio, O Audio, TC-1000 and the Audiopulse Epic are all based on this motor. Scott has mentioned in an earlier posting about being able to recone these. There is also the TC-2000 (TC2K for short) that is based on the TC9 motor. The motor can be reconed but it needs to have a new basket. I don't think their order for 10" spiders has come in yet. The 10" model (very rare) may be able to be reconed because it used 8" spiders. If you want to recone it yourself, I can get you in touch with a guy who has the parts. Not a kit. You have to glue everything together like I documented in a Photobucket slide show - link. -Robert

As one who has purchased and installed Fi recones, the basket is not included in the price. That was extra. Post you zip code so you can get a shipping quote.The actual recone is pretty easy. Hit your new basket with a sandpaper on the surround and spider landing. Clean it up with acetone to remove any grease/oil. Mount your basket to the motor with bolts. I used stainless steel, tapered head bolt with a little bit of blue Loc-Tite on the thread. I also put a dab of Amazing Goop glue on the motor between each bolt hole. I tightened each bolt in a standard cross pattern and then put a final tap on each one with an impact screwdriver. You don't want a loose bolt later. Make a shim(s) from manilla envelopes. I like to use a thin cardboard like cereal boxes are made from. Then I'll use additional sheets of paper/envelopes to make it tight. It should support the weight of the recone but allow you to easily push it down into the motor/basket. I used Loc-Tite 2 part, 60 min epoxy as my glue. Mix up a tube in a small container and spread it on the spider and surround landing. A full 1 oz tube did an 18" sub for me. You may need less for smaller models. Push the recone kit w/ shims down onto the motor slightly. Align the tinsel leads with the terminals on the basket as well as the holes in the surround to the basket mounting holes. Push down until you make contact. I used an 8" sub for weight. 24 hours later, I removed the shims, soldered the tinsel to the terminals and tested. Once things were moving, I glued the dust cap on with Amazing Goop glue. Amazing Goop has VOC's and will eat foam. Do not use it on the surround of the cone! -Robert

A new option has opened up for you. ED has started reconing. I hate to mention their name on this forum but you have been ignored for quite some time. -Robert

Are you wanting to just replace the 8" that's in the bass module or start a real sub from scratch? Just replacing, you will NEVER get a 'Damn!! it's only an 8"!!' comment. And depending on your room size, you may not even get that if you built an 8" sub from scratch. I hang out mostly at the home theater forums and the guys in the DIY section very seldom use 10's. It's mostly 12's, 15's and 18's for DIY subs.

All of the PE amps are quality pieces of equipment. If you go with the BASH500, you will need to modify the subsonic filter on it. For some odd reason, it comes from the factory set at 30 hz. That's way too high for home theater use. Other amps are available from O Audio and Rythmik Audio. Both are great performers and it really depends on your sub goals as to which one fits your needs. If you are really ambitious then there are a few pro style amps available for $300. I'm using a Behringer EP-2500 that I got on sale from Guitar Center for $275 shipped. I'm not familiar with the outputs on an iPod but there is bound to be a line level output somewhere. What inputs does your Technics receiver have? If you don't have enough inputs, then a simple switch box from Wal-Mart can solve that.-Robert

www.epiksubwoofers.com

The AE IB is proven. Especially, the updated version. But the Fi IB 15 has better specs and a lower price - $129 shipped or 4 for $119 each shipped. I see you are already a member of the AE Forums. See if a C15 is available. They are much more capable subs. -Robert

They have to be steel since aluminum is non-magnetic. And probably low carbon steel at that.-Robert

Just a bump and more info. I pulled the decorative magnet cover from the magnet slug and there's an Audiomobile 2012 sticker on the side of the motor. -Robert

You can always go with a low Vas sub with a Qts of around .3 and install it in a large box. So that the end result will be an enclosure size at least 4x the driver's Vas and a Qtc around .5 or a little lower. It's not perfect but it should provide great results. Just remember to model it in WinISD Pro or Unibox so that you can determine excursion with the amp you are using. Since most IB users don't use a subsonic filter, we design the system with the expectation that we will play material with frequencies down to at least 10hz. If you are using this for music only then you can change your plans accordingly. Dipole subs are a completely different type of sub. I think the Linkwitz site has some good dipole information. -Robert

Not exactly. Minimum, you want 4x the combined Vas of all of the drivers. From there, the larger the enclosure, the less impact it will have on the sound. The reason we use an attic is no box equals no sound coloration. It's all about the driver in an IB. Seriously. If I had the money, I'd go with a Thigpen Rotary Sub. I almost installed four 15's in an IB but decided to go all out. When testing the manifold for rattles, I played some 15hz tones that rattled the theater room door violently and made me dizzy. But the odd part was that I couldn't hear anything from the sub. There are some guys who have usable output at 5hz.I'm going to start a few build logs for the IB and other stuff I'm working on. I feel left out since I haven't done a car install in ages. And even then, it wasn't enough for a build log. -Robert

Todd, you are a little confused. Like M5 stated, the minimum enclosure size is greater than 10x the combined Vas of the drivers being used. For example, the Fi IB 18" sub has a Vas of 381L. Most people use then in groups of 4 so the total Vas of the IB would be 1524L. So the minimum enclosure size would be 15240L or 538 cubic feet. That's larger than most closets thus the reason that most use an attic or a basement. Tom Nousaine's article 'The Subwoofer That Shook The World' gives you an idea on what home theater bass nuts go to for the ultimate sub. I'm building 4 custom 18's using Fi soft parts, TC 9 motors and 6 spoke frames. If that isn't enough, I'll get 2 more of the recone kits from Scott and end up with a total of six 18's. One pair over each main speaker. The additional pair would go over the center channel. -Robert

Here's one example of an IB using four Soundsplinter RL-p 15's - link. Classic example of an attic manifold using opposing drivers. Opposing drivers cancels out the mechanical force of the cone moving back and forth. IB arrays have been known to flex a ceiling or a wall even at low volumes because of the motion of the cone. Just pick up a good 15" driver and play a 20hz sine wave. You can't hold the driver still. For the most information on home IB subs on the entire planet, go to the Cult of the Infinitely Baffled. Be sure and read all of the FAQ's before posting a question. Thomas runs a very tight forum over there. You will also see that there is not much traffic compared to other boards. 90% of everything you need is covered in the FAQ's. -Robert

Yes, Jonh makes some quality drivers. But the IB15 was created for specific applications - infinite baffle. Yes, the thermal power handling is 500w but the mechanical limits will be reached well before 500w when installed in an IB. The AE IB's are closer to Fi's 15" IB subs. Scott mentions that they will only take 250w at 20hz to reach xmax. If you are a fan of action movies, you will get a lot of sub 20hz material and you should drop the power per driver and increase the number of drivers. That and opposing drivers is the reason you see IB's most of the time with two or four drivers (always an even number). Check out post #9 for a short review on Scott's IB drivers - link.If the OP is not in the market for an IB, AE Speakers as well as Fi (and almost all of the subs sold here) will make excellent home theater sub in the right enclosure. -Robert

Welcome Woody. As someone who also grew up in a small Arkansas town (Dermott), I hope you get out real soon. -Robert

I have the version on the right. I measured from the bottom of the frame to the top of the magnet slug. The silver hunk of steel between the magnet and frame is the top plate. You should also measure the depth of the motor from the top plate to the bottom plate inside the gap. I used a thin piece of cardboard to get the full depth of my TC9 motors and then just measured where I made a pencil mark on the cardboard. My TC9 motors were 75mm deep. 12mm thick top plate. A pair of 1" thick magnets are approximately 51mm. Then the bottom plate is bumped out about another 12mm. I think your motor and the TC9 share the same back plate so your motor would only have about 36mm of movement from the bottom of the top plate to the back of the motor. -Robert

I don't like a Qtc that high on any sub. You may get unlucky and that peak is also the resonant frequency of your car. Your sub will be a one note wonder then. The only way I'd go that route is if you have an EQ with a lot of bands or an fully parametric EQ and the proper equipment to test the car and set the EQ. If someone could make a DC power supply for the Behringer Feedback Destroyer, that would solve everyone's EQ problems. -Robert

Aren't the Brahma and Avalanche underhung XBL^2? Or do they use different size coils?I measure a 32mm top plate on my SVS Ultra driver which is an Audiomobile motor attached to an Eclipse Ti frame. -Robert

If you can hit 20hz outside with a ground plane measurement, then you can easily hit 20hz in a car where the cabin gain helps a LOT. It's all in the enclosure design and the material being played. -Robert

I've only used the Pro version then I switched to Unibox and haven't looked back. I don't like the hump in the response of the CV 15". My guess is the final Q is around 1.0. Correct? -Robert

Where's your excursion graph? If they are all similar on that, I'd go with the CV. I hope the new V-Max sounds like the old. They were closing the 15's out at Ubid.com for $85 each. I should have picked up 8 for my home theater instead of the 2 I got. -Robert