Robert_J

I'm using the TC Sounds version of the Axis in small, sealed enclosures powered by a Behringer EP-2500. With a Behringer Feedback Destroyer to bring down the inductance hump, it is a great sounding sub that can get incredibly loud. But it is NOT designed for IB installs. You need a low BL, low Fs, high Vas, Qtc of .5 to .7 driver. AE makes some as well as Exodus and Fi. I also have the older AV series and they are incredible sounding subs. Yes, they are much cleaner sounding than my TC-3000s but they don't have near the output. -Robert

If it really is an RL-p then it is based on the TC-9 motor and Fi can easily recone it. I reconed four TC-9's into 18's using Fi parts. -Robert

Once everything is scraped off, grind down the landings to bare metal. Don't forget to cover the motor gap with tape during cleaning. Once clean, use 2-part epoxy or Amazing Goop to glue down the recone kit. Epoxy works great with foam surrounds while Goop works with rubber surrounds. -Robert

But you can't do that now. It would hurt the child's self esteem and scar them for life. That's the same reason they stopped keeping score in pee-wee football and everyone gets a "participation trophy". Then they get into the real world and expect to get a raise and bonus for just doing their work. Doing what is expected will keep you from being the first one on the chopping block during a cut-back. But that doesn't mean you won't get chopped during the 2nd round.And even then it sometimes doesn't matter - link. -Robert

Connecting your amps directly to the TV will sound like crap. Audio components are added to the TV as an afterthought. Absolutely the cheapest possible parts that they can source. -Robert

I suggest that you buy or build a set of quality speakers first. You would be amazed at the difference in sound even when connected to an "average" receiver. Since you already built a sub I know you can build a cabinet. Look for a quality design or kit. Designs can be found at DIY Audio, Zaph, etc. but the best I'm ever seen are at Home Theater Guide (htguide.com). They have dozens based on the Dayton RS series drivers. The designers have decades of experience with audio and building speakers. A pair of these will probably cost $500 in parts but they will be comparable to speakers costing thousands. From there, upgrade the receiver if needed. If you still want a crossover, you can check out Marchand Electronics for some great kits. Reckhorn has a couple as well. They are available from Creative Sound in Canada. -Robert

Why 2.1 and you mention home theater. 5.1 is so much more immersive when there aer effects all around you. Host you picts on Photobucket. Copy/paste the IMG for each one into a post. They will magically appear. Why do you want an EQ? Is your frequency response not flat? If not, how did you determine it is not flat? If you get a quality home theater receiver, most of the newer ones come with a mic and an auto calibration system built in. My Pioneer is a few years old and it does it. Excellent results. I so use a Behringer Feedback Destroyer to flatten the response of my subs. The calibration system isn't that sophisticated. And yes, I did determine that I needed to use an EQ. I measured the sub's response with an SPL meter and graphed it with a spreadsheet with correction values for my meter. -Robert

http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/ Check the sections on port flaring. -Robert

Are the tinsel leads broken? It looks like you broke the little screw that holds the terminal to the basket. Put a little silicone glue on it and push it back into the holes. Make sure that the base touches the basket. The round, plastic parts fit in the 2 holes and keep the metal parts of the terminal from touching the metal parts of the basket. If you haven't patched the surround, Plumber's Goop is a great product for this type of repair. It is much stickier than silicone when dry. I built a sub using it and that rubber surround is bonded to the basket like crazy. You can also use it to glue the terminal to the basket. Is the motor 6" or 7" diameter? TC-7's are 6" while TC-9's are 7". I have both sitting here beside me. -Robert

Still have a problem spelling Scott? The O Audio amp has a selectable SSF with frequencies of 25hz, 20hz, 16hz and 12hz. If you tune it to 22hz, then you want to use the 20hz SSF setting. Plug one port and you can set the SSF to 16hz for more extension. Similar to what SVS does with their tri-port system.-Robert

I had that option on a sub I built from scratch. I used CA on parts that were already touching. Like the spider/voice coil joint or the cone/voice coil joint. It just dried too fast for me. There would be no way I could lay down a couple of beads of glue and get everything positioned correctly. But yes, it is an option and available at hobby stores that carry remote control cars, etc. -Robert

The F-MODS are based on a specific input impedance of the amp. If his amp has a different input impedance, then the cut-off frequency can be off by as much as 50%. Look at the Reckhorn EQ's from Creative Sound Solutions (Canada) or the Elemental Designs EQ.2. -Robert

Both are based on the TC9 motor and built at the same build house. It would really get down to the install and the T/S parameters of the driver. -Robert

Which is great if you are an expert at reconing and your assembly line doesn't have time to wait for everything to cure. For the average person, epoxy works just fine. In fact, Scott is the one that recommends epoxy. They use it for quick recones during competition. Plus CA glue smells worse than Goop. Epoxy is the least smelly of the bunch.-Robert

Plumber's Goop - http://www.amazinggoop.com/amazinggoop/index.html DO NOT use it with Fi recones. The VOC's it produces when curing will deteriorate and/or dissolve the foam surround on the recone kit. Locktite Epoxy - http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/su...11&SubID=49 If you recone involves a new basket, make sure to use some Locktite Blue on the screws - http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/su...10&SubID=48 -Robert

For Fi recones since they use foam surrounds, 2 part epoxy is recommended. I used a Loc-Tite version with 50 minute set time but that was completely overkill. 15 minute set time should give even a first timer more than enough time to get everything lined up. For recones with rubber surrounds, I have used Plumber's Goop. Both of these are available at your local home improvement store like Lowes and Home Depot. -Robert

I have four 18" recones using TC9 motors from Elemental Designs E12A.22 subs. They still had the serial number stickers on them. When I spoke to Scott, I told him they were going to be used in a home theater IB powered by a Behringer EP-2500 amp. I trusted his judgement. Now, if it will cool down, I can install it. As for the quality of the recones. Perfect. Everything fit great. They came with a 6 spoke, 18" basket just like the ones used on the RLp 18. I shimmed them with cardboard from cereal boxes. I double checked everything, practiced the drop in a few times and then added the glue. I used 50min, 2 part epoxy. I think 15 or 20 min would be enough time but I wanted to be 100% sure I had time to do everything. I used an RE 8" sub to weight things down. The next day, I glued on the dust cap with Goop. Getting it centered and the Fi logo aligned was the most difficult part of the whole process. Soundsplinter motors should be just as easy. -Robert

Try Plumber's Goop in the purple tube from Lowes. If you can't find that, then E2000 from a fabric store is the same thing. Both work GREAT at gluing rubber surrounds to metal (the cone). I used Goop when I built a 12" sub from surplus TC Sounds parts. The rubber surround is bonded like crazy to the cone. I'd try that before going the full recone route. But if you do have to go that way, Scott and crew can hook you up. I used four of his 18" recone kits and TC-9 motors to make IB subs. -Robert

The software coupled with the right hardware (quality sound card and mic), it will measure the frequency response in-room like like an RTA. But it adds additional measurements like waterfall graphs (response over time). If your PC has a MIDI connection, you can also adjust your BFD via the software in real time and see how each change impacts the response. I've even seen people measure the frequency response of a sub amp to determine where the sub-sonic filter was set at. I question my sanity every time I make a mortgage payment or do yard work.Cool videos mike. Your play by play is better than the audio portion. I've heard/felt a few of those clips so I know exactly what you are talking about. -Robert

I was worried about that. I used the basket from my to determine the size of the hole in the center. Maybe run a chamfer bit around the inside bottom to remove a little material. Try to match the angle of the extended top play. Besides the 45 degree chamfer bit in the link, they also come in 30 degree, 22.5 degree, 15 degree and 11.25 degree. You can also make a jig and use a standard flush trim bit to do the same thing. If you do trim anything off the plate, use some laquer sanding sealer to cover the raw MDF. At least 5 coats.I'm also willing to make the modifications. Just let me know how much material to remove and the angle of the extended pole piece. I'll even repaint it. -Robert

If the foam is the only thing wrong with the sub, then just re-foam it. Try Ebay users moonlistener, geoaliwil, bootapest2 & speakerworldonline-fla for sources of foam. -Robert

I looked on Ebay. By the time I got a piece large enought for a pair of 7" circles plus the glue to put them together plus shipping and handling, etc my budget of $0 would have been blown. Yes, MDF isn't the best but with enough coats of sanding sealer, primer and paint it should be close to waterproof. When mounted in an enclosure, it will last for quite a while. You know the kind I'm talking about. I took 10th grade geometry in '84/'85 and we had them. But at the time I also brought a batter powered automatic water gun to school that was an exact replica of a Mac10. Now you can't draw a picture of a gun without going to jail. I'm so glad I have cats and not kids.-Robert

Thank you. I wanted to use steel or aluminum but I don't have a milling machine and the price of a 1" thick piece of aluminum large enough for this was over $100. A waterproof material like Corian would have worked better since it is impervious to the elements and can still be milled with standard woodworking tools. But that would have blown my budget (which was zero). I used this as practice for a few other projects I'm working on so the little bit of money I did spend translated in to knowledge. It really did take 6 tries to get the bolt pattern correct. Once I got the center to center spaceing at 5", I had to get them properly spaced at 60 degrees. I ended up ruining a pair of elementary protractors doing this. What happened to the accurate, hard plastic ones I used last century? I also noticed that they compasses are now plastic and don't have a sharp point. How are you going to stab someone?Painting was also a learning experience. There are 5 coats of laquor sanding sealer, 4 coats of primer (2 high build up, 2 regular) and 3 coats of automotive high gloss. There was a little sanding in between coats. I'm going to use what I learned on this to clone a set of SVS subs. -Robert

Mailed via USPS Priority Mail. -Robert

I have the box addressed and ready to mail. I just have to get to the post office when they are open. I work at home so getting out takes some planning. I'm going to try for tomorrow around 11am. As soon as it is in the mail, I'll update this thread. -Robert