dulas

And i was planning on having the audio shop do most of the work, i just wanted ya'll' s opinion on if a trapazoidal shaped box owuld present any issues.... Oh yeah and the seats in my cutlass dont fold down. The ciera wasnt built for a sound system, but i do love my car so much....

I dont have enough cash to get 2 subs......through Fi, the cost of subs is minimal going from a 10 to a 12 to a 15 and so on, but to get 2 subwoofers would exceed my budget. Plus I only have one amp and about 1100 watts rms to play with so i just want to pump all that into one sub. Just gonna kinda keep it simple yet effective, know what i mean?

Im having a shop custom build my box around my driver.....what about having the driver slanted upwards.....like the front of the box would be at a 45 degree angle....anybody done this? I really want a 15" at the smallest. Asides from the bass cancellation form a sub firing towars the rear deck, i also get concerned about the cone or surround hitting stuff during excursion.

Hey guys. Its a 1994 olds cutlass ciera. My dimensions in the trunk are as follows: 38 inches of width to play with 15 inches fromt he trunk floor to the bottom of the magnets of the 6x9's, 17 3/4 inchs if i took the 6x9's out of the equation (which i may do sooner than later because they are infinity kappas and they absolutely suck) several feet of depth so that isnt an issue. I really prefer not to have the subwoofer firing upwards.....i have done this in the past in this car and i have found some bass cancellation occurs.......

Im considering eithet a 15" or an 18" Fi BL. I have an alpine mrd-m1005 amplifier (approx. 1100 watts rms @ 2 ohms). I want to stick this thing in a ported enclosure in the trunk of my cutlass, facing backwards. What would be the absolutely optimal enclosure size for these applications (both sub sizes)?

So if i were to add an option what would be the smartest choice? Cooling?

Thanks for everything guys. I'm leaning very heavily towards the BL at this point. I think it is a perfect balance of output vs. budget...know what I mean? It will save me a few dollars to hit up a concert or two this summer So, given the fact that i am not giving this sub its rated rms anyways, should I even consider adding on any build options? Or would that just be throwing money out the window at this point?

Did a bit of digging....heres what i have come up with as pretty much my top options: If i wanted a 1250 watt RMS sub to "best" match my amp and maximize that subs potential, i could choose: 15" SSA ICON- $294 15" Ascendant Audio Havoc- $389 If i wanted to push it a little and get a 1500 watt RMS sub, then I could choose from: 15" Fi BL -$304 15" Sundown audio Z series- $440 15" Incriminator Audio Death Penalty- $478 If i really, really wanted to push it, at 1750 watts RMS, I could get: 15" SSA XCON- $389 *None of these prices include shipping, or additional build-on options. That being said, there are some subs here that are significantly less money than others in the same wattage category. Mind you, im going to have to get a box built regardless of which 15" i choose (ive been quoted $200 several times for a high-quality custom built enclosure). I dont want to overspend here, and like I said, I will have about $600 max to work with. Having some left over for other things would be a definite plus. Leaning more towards output, instead of SQ, yet without the sub being a 1 note fart-machine, I really really like the XCON, i just dont like the price, as that would max me out. The ICON and the BL seem logical if i want to be able to bank some leftover money, but then I worry i may be selling myself short. Sorry if im being redundant here guys. I just want to make sure every option is explored before I commit. This will more than likely be the sub i use for several years to come, so i want it to be right. Opinions?

My amp has a dial-in digital gain setting as opposed to a rotary dial, so the selctions are a bit limited. The lowest gain setting is 8.0 volts, then the next highest choice is 4.0 volts (had my gain here to match HU preouts, and the output was really low) then the next is 2.5 volts ( this is where i leave my gain set, seems adequate) then 1.5 volts, 1 volt, and a few even higher settings that i wouldnt dare venture into because thats just way too high. im guessing that if i were the type of guy that maxs out the HU volume, a 4v settin would be fine, but on my HU, volume goes up to 35, and i have rarely, if ever, hit 24 or 25. Am i correct in thinking that 4 volts is the preout output voltage at full volume?

Okay so am I risking overdrawing my amplifier then by attempting to power a sub rated at twice what the amp is intended to produce? I know i will hit trouble if i max the gain or the volume knob, but what about at even 50% volume on the HU? If anyone's wondering I have my amplifier gain set @ 2.5 volts (HU puts out 4 volts, but I rarely turn volume past 70%) and a 45 HZ bass boost at 10 db. Subsonic filter at 30HZ.

So a sub only given 50% of its nominal wattage wont sound muddy or distorted? Heres another question: As far as output is concerned, who would win between a 15" BL or BTL and a 15" SSA XCON or ZCON?

Whoever told you this was either lying or ignorant. The BTL will be louder than a BL or Q on the same power period. Crutchfield reps...

For the price difference, right now I just cant justify the 1200 d (would add only 100 watts rms) or the 1500 D (would add only 400 watts rms VS. what i currently have. And I would be shelling out several hunded dollars to boot for that small of an upgrade.

I really dont want to add more power at this point. I had 2 m1005's and was planning on getting a BTL. Unfortunately, one of the amps blew. Now I am content with just the one. My electrical system was really strained with the two ampss my main drivers amp, and i dont really want to pay for the big three or a HO alternator (my car is aging, with 200K miles on it). I want to work with what I have. I would get about $150-200 for my amp on ebay, and I cannot afford a sundown amp at this time even after that sale, I know I said dollars wernt an issue but only to a point. I wast banking on swapping EVERYTHING. So assuming there will be no more power upgrades, i dont think the BTL woudl be my best option. Its interesting though that you guys think I could push it with 1000 RMS. I have always been told to never ever power a sub with less than 2/3 of its rated RMS, or you risk a blowing.\ I agree with you all though. Sundown amps are Badazz, to say the least...

Enclosure will be, regardleshess of driver choice, custom built to the specs listed on Fi's website. The box will more than likely be ported, unless possibly if I got the Q, but still probobly ported because I like output. The box can be a little on the big side of it will increase output, as im only gonna have one sub and I have the entire trunk of an olds cutlass to work with. So you guys think I would be perfectly fine running a Q or a BL on my amp? Should I maybe turn the gain up a little? When it comes to choosing this driver $ isnt that much of an issue becasue I have $500 fromt he sale of my X's. Thanks for the help so far!