Munkyhead2_16

1. I never said anything about the amps frequency response having to do with it putting out more power at a higher frequency. I forgot a comma between the words frequencies and your so possibly it was misread? I was trying to convey that because the box is inefficient at a higher frequency, there is more resistance from the sub (mechanically) at higher frequencies than lower but the amp electrically still has to fight that mechanical resistance to push the sub to its full positive and negative cycle as it did with lower frequencies but with ease and less resistance down low. More resistance = more heat, the heat comes from more current/amps being pushed through to overcome the resistance so the amp will push the sub its full cycle like its supposed to. I think some confusion comes when I used the word "power", when I use "power" im thinking of everything involved within electricity to make the "watts", I'm not necessarily saying the amp is throwing out more "watts" because of the high frequency but my thought is more of the word "power" in general with everything involved. Next... an amplifier does not have a frequency response lol, it will put out whatever signal you give it, however the filters (crossover) built into the electronics within the amp circuit do dictate the frequency response of an amp and where it will cut off (HPF, LPF or FULL which would bypass the filters altogether and pass the full signal). Mono Amps that are marketed for subwoofers obviously have a low pass filter built in because its marketed use is for subs so why would you need the full signal and the higher frequencies that a sub wont need or reproduce? Take that built in LPF circut out of the amp completely and your "sub amp" could power your mids and hi's (providing you are feeding the amp a full signal from your source). Take an old school amp for instance, they didn't have built in crossovers/filters, it just threw whatever frequency out that you fed it from the source, which back in the day you bought external crossovers, more than likely you were buying an external eq as well or any other processors to achieve what was needed, we have it easier now than back then! Today everything can be built into one unit, tech wasn't what it is now so now things can be built into it instead of having to get individual boxes to accomplish the same thing. A flat frequency response does not come from an amp itself but rather processing the signal before it hits the amplification stage to achieve a flat response. The amp does not care what frequency it is receiving or weather it is boosted or cut, high or low, in turn it will spit out what you gave it just amplified. Its not going to boost or cut the individual frequencies for you and make them flat. All the amp does is amplify a signal you give it from line level to speaker level which is then turned into mechanical energy (vibration/sound) through the sub/speaker. That is all an "amplifier" does is boost a lower signal into a higher one, there isn't a little guy in the amp telling workers that the signal needs to be flatter cause its too high here and too low there, however the DSP built into the amp can process the signal and change it (bass boost for example would change the signal but that's done within the signal processing circuit, not the amp). To achieve a flatter frequency response in your vehicle you would need to go test tone by test tone with RTA software and make adjustments through an EQ and tune accordingly for your individual car (every car has a different natural response curve, a small car might have to boost bass +6 to flatten out while an suv might have to cut -6 out to make flat). Want the actual amp itself to put out a flat frequency response before it ever goes through the speaker? Alright... I don't know why since your vehicle response isnt flat anyway so a flat signal fed directly to and from the amp wouldn't make the inside acoustics of your car magically flat in response once you hooked the speaker up. I want to go more in detail but ill stop here... I think a little deeper though which can be confusing and misread sometimes to convey my message i'm trying to get out 2. Clipping doesn't create heat? GTFOH. Clipping does, just might not be enough to thermally fry the sub/speaker but extra heat will be a result of clipping. Read... http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm 3. True, yes lowering power lowers heat but not the "only" thing you can do. There are other things to also take care of heat... bigger heatsinks, fans, liquid cooling, ferro fluid cooling are some. Naturally someone probably isn't going to bolt on a bunch of heat sinks to a amp or sub but someone could add fans... just sayin... 4. Yes of course the gain tips are meaningless, regardless of the situation on here. That's what I'm trying to say... duh... I however was stating that using an O-scope to check for clipping would naturally be better than a clipping indicator on the amp or remote... If O-Scopes are useless for checking sine waves to see if a signal is clipping because the gain stage is turned up too much, what would you suggest using? Please don't respond with a DMM, last time I checked at the Home Depot I didn't find one that told me if a sine wave was clipped. Have you found a better diagnostic tool than an O-scope that about 99.99% of electrical/audio engineers have been using for the past who knows how long to look at waveforms and what they are doing? Open your mind up abit bro, look at the bigger picture on things. Not just X and X are this, so this HAS to equal Y. I am sorry if I forgot some punctuation and might of left a word or 2 out here and there and threw some people off, but the message is still the same. To me it looks like you added numbers to your response, mixed my words around like politicians do to fit your situation and came out trying to look like the better guy when all you did was mix things up and add redundant information with a smart ass tone at the end. You don't know everything, as well as I don't know everything and dont claim to. I also do make mistakes, you don't know me and what I know and I don't know you and the knowledge you know, but trying to make someone look like a complete fool is stupid itself. I'm not here trying to show anybody up, look cool or say that's all wrong and i'm only right, i'm just trying to help the guy out and maybe give him a deeper explanation on why his subs smell at higher notes rather than everyone rushing to bump up post counts with the typical "Your gains are set to high" posting. Just trying to help...

YES finally someone said it! Your box is tuned to 33 iirc, being probably a basic ported enclosure its bound to not have a very wide frequency range and really inefficient towards the upper range. You are more than likely playing songs out of the range of your enclosure with the higher bass in turn the subs are vibrating faster and less (from the higher frequency) and there is less cooling. Also because the box is inefficient at higher frequencies your amp is throwing a lil extra power to push the sub and with that power comes a lil extra heat also. Everyone is always so quick to jump on the "its your gains, the gains gotta be too high" theory. Now... throw those subs into a 4th order or maybe if possible a t-line or horn which have much wider frequency response range and should be able to hit the brutal lows as well as keep up nicely with the upper double bass in rock/metal depending on the design. Check and adjust all of your settings (double check em, haha), clipping indicators on amps and knobs are pretty damn good these days actually, an O-scope is always the best to use though naturally. (no matter the brand, clipping indicator circuits are all basically the same in design but I'm not going to go further into circuit design here lol.) Just watch the volume knob on those songs you know have a higher bass frequency, get some more songs with low bass in your mix. haha.

I think a 12" Q or BL would be good for you to start out with for some nice bump, like I said in Corolla a 12" in a 3.5-4cu ft enclosure slot port tuned to 32hz. It will fit into the trunk but give you some nice bump. Lol I registered in 07 but this is barely my second post, just realized. I guess I should go to introductions forum... Hello everyone, not ment to thread jack..

Nope, won't work... Ive tried, there is just not enough room in the trunk for a proper box for an 18. I have an 05 Corolla and 18"BL at the moment and ended up taking the seats out in the back and doing a half wall. Here soon I am going to recone the 18 down to a 15 to reclaim my backseats and put the sub in the trunk. I have found that in Corollas 1-12" do nice in the trunk with a box at 4cuft tuned to 32 for daily driving application and it will fit in the trunk with space left for amps and a little storage. When I had my 12'' I built various different boxes and that size and tuning worked best in the Corolla, let me know if you decide to go that route and I can send you the same box blueprints I built mine off of. Never had a 15 before so my new trunk build should be interesting.