SouthPole1989

speaken of the kx possably the KX450.2 since it is fairly priced. anything bad about the sx series i was looking at them because of the sxrc

you might need to have a alternator place rewind your alternator to be able to produce more amps. and also take a look at your engine with the serpretain belt is and try to visual see if you can mount another alternator in there. like on i visual can see fitting a 300 amp one and i have been told i can if i get rid of my a/c which i think i might even though i live in florida.

the only thing bad about getting a high out-put alt is if you need a smaller belt for it and no one makes them( i had this happen)

just make up some lie saying you work for some electronic repair place or even go to a electronic techincal school and say that someone needs a repair for a TA81001d and ask for a schmetic that way.

i think it sould depend on the vechile because some have all aluminon uni bodys etc but the one thing that i did hear is that with a negtive ground run you have a better chance of getting a ground loop.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=4414 try reading that. and the md3d does 2k at 1 ohm. i heard some that did 2400 at 1 ohm but i'm not sure which version.

High Desert Audio, but there is also sonic electrionix that is kicker authorized

how does the X12 compare to kicker's cvx?

i would like to know to. i plan on using it as a midbass driver

yea i know but i want more midbass thats the thing. i was thinking of either using an eu 700 or the mach 5 audio mli 65 for the midbass. or go with something like this. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=2869 and use the xxx's for rear fill cause i already tired selling them on Roe and no offered cash only trades and the only trade that didn't envolve more from me was a very used 12w7

hi, i am thinking of using kick pods for my componots since they are too deep for my stock location ( they are re audio xxx comonopots) and i am wondering i was thinking of putt ing in some midbass drivers in the stock location in the door. know will that affect anything since there will only belike 4 inches seperating the componots and the midbass drivers.

try readying it with a dmm or differentvoltage guage. and does your battery light come on?

which brand would you recommend that is not rainbow or focal ( price) unless they are no more then 300 a set and i would like them to get fairly loud since it will have to compete with around 1500 watts of bass.

hi, i have a opportinty to get 2 12w7 ( svc 3 ohm) for cheap ( 500 for both) and i am looking at an amp for them before i get it and i would like to stick with 1 amp for price and i am wondering what does the saz1500d do at 1.5 ohms and also i have a 200 amp alternator. hc1400 under the hood and a hc2400 in the trunk and it is all connected by 1/0 guage wire and the other amps i am going to have 2 eclipse xa4000 amps to give you an idea of the power for the amp. i might add another hc2400 if i can get a good deal on it,

yea

ok i am pending the idea of having an amp rack instead of a backseat ( it depends on the qoute i get) and since the amp's would be in the open i was thinking about totally enclosing it and having the top back pexiglass so since i think to think totally through i was looking at ventliation for it since has been hot out latley ( i live in florida) and i am wondering what others with amp racks have used to. first i was thinking 12v fans but then i thought that i would need a exit hole for the air to move out. then i started looking at Liquid Cooling for computers since computers are 12v. and that is all i could think of.

what if i got amps that had fans in them and put holes in the pexi glass ( i woud use a dremel drill to put in a design.) and it is a 96 saturn sl2 so the a/c thing would work. plus i don't really run the a/c. it makes the car feel like it has no balls.

ok cool, looks like you might get a new customer.

hi, i am wondering is doing the big 3 in 4 guage enough for a 2400 rms system? i know using a thicker wire is better but i would like to use stock type connects and the biggest side terninal battery wire is 4 guage that i can find unless i can find like 2 guage then i might be stuck using 4 guage.

i'm picked 880PRS even though i am not a fan of the white retro type looks.

well i did it once and it is not bad i actully got a complament on it from my mechinc that i go to but but on my ground ones it looks like it might be starting to come out of the terminal even though. and by the getting rid of me factor i also mean that i don't have the proper tools or anything like when i did it the first time i used a bench clamp i think thats what it is called and then to make sure it was tight i wacked it with the hammer a few times.

i am converting to a top post since i am going to use a kinketik hc1400 under the hoad. and i am looking for prefabbed because i want to get rid of the me factor.

i find somewhat what i am looking for http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Insulated...9162&sr=8-2 i wanted something more like this style http://www.1aauto.com/1A/BatteryCable/GMC/...3504-040/347625 the only thing bad is that a have a top post terminal that has 3 5/16th opening and those come with 3/8th

they whole XT is overratted by what us amps has been here is what they produce. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=4414

ok, me and another person on RoE are having an argument on using a y cable on rca. he thinks that using a y cable is not going to do anything to the signal or anything and it is going to be the same as if there where no y cable. while i think and have found on other places online that say that using a y cable can weaken the signal and basic under standing of electricity does back that up. and that is while the voltage is the same when spliting but the current that is carrying the signal is cut in half. so who is correct? and i would post a link to the discussion but RoE has the forum set up so you can't.