Goldtaz1

Absolutely incredible Mr. Pimp. The numbers never cease to amaze me. It's ported right along the top right?? Just out of curiosity, how many square inches of port are you running?

Is your name really Steve Mead?

HAHAHA!! Too funny! Did you check out the vids Big Dave posted up of the trucks?

I just thought there would be more feedback than 4 posts.

Nick, Did she call you with any reaction??

Your sketchup drawing does not depict where the port will be, but I think I understand you correctly. In my opinion I would not use 2 x 4's inside of my box, but rather I would use a series of 1.25" round wooden dowels for the bracing. I cannot scientifically say what kind of turbulence there might be in using 2 x 4's, but if you use dowels I can pretty much guarantee that the turbulence on those is far less than a 2 x 4. I am making this recommendation due to the fact that you seem quite concerned with preservation of the Db's. If a few tenths or so will not affect your decision making then you should probably be fine with what you have spec'd out. Brandon

Damn Dave, it's hard to get a whole lot of love around here. SHEESH!! 2 replies is great, but we are getting a lot more love on the *** site.

dB-r, One additional tip on box building is that you would ideally like to maintain a 8:1 ratio on the dimensions of your port. In your situation a 22.5 x 4 port will be just fine because that is roughly a 5.6:1 ratio on your dimensions. From what I've read and in my experience, violating the 8:1 ratio can definitely assist with port noise.

dB, Additionally, this gentleman is correct. If one wall of the enclosure is going to be part of the port then you must take end correction factor into account otherwise the tuning of your enclosure will not be correct. End Correction factor is found by adding half of the port height to the length calculation. In your particular scenario your port is 4 inches wide so half of 4 is 2. You would add 2 inches to the port length calculation which is 28 inches in this case for a total length of 30 inches. This should get you to a tuning of 32 Hz. Box builders, If I am wrong, please correct me so dB-r will know exactly what he is doing when designing his box.

dB, I would highly recommend reading over the JL Audio tutorials on Sub enclosures to get a really good foundation in box info. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=141 Since you may already be familiar with some basic box designing stuff, you could probably simply go to the port tutorial section http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=165 and read up on the formula for finding the proper length. After you familiarize yourself with the ported alignment math, you can then break into the various box mods that can increase SPL and all that good stuff. I may very well get flamed for referring you to the JL website, but I have always used the formula on their website for my box designs with a very high degree of success. Brandon

So 4.9 cubes per 18 and roughly 25 sq. inches of port per cube? Perhaps I will understand a little better in the future. You must be running an assload of power to them? Will they really have the low frequency extension inside of a volume like that? What made you select that volume and that amount of port area?

I think you are asking for trouble since you have stipulated that you want to compete and daily drive/ground pound with the setup. The DP is a helluva woofer, but 3500 watts RMS is pushing your luck. 1 amp on both subs would be more than sufficient. The DP's do not require that much power to rip your head off. If you keep with this plan, I would shrink the Net Vol to around 6 cubes so you can at least attempt to exercise some control over cone movement, otherwise you'll be getting recones in very short order.

That is absolutely awesome. How many 3000's are you running to achieve that score? 1 per sub? That is incredible power from an amp that's "rated" for "3000". Holy cow.

You could also do 1.33 with the 6-d1s which is .66 per amp & you should be fine. Really? Is that in series or parallel? I think I tried every which way possible. series, series/parallel, parallel.. Care to elborate? Thumper, I think that JHughes is telling you that you can not only series wire the subs individually giving a 2 ohm load per sub, but you can then turn around and series wire a pair of subs to get to a single 4 ohm load per pair. You should end up with (3) 4 ohm subs for a 1.33333 ohm load or .67 per amp. I am going to do the same thing in my setup accept I have dual 2's. Let me know if this helps. It's the same concept as if you had a single VC subwoofer and wanted to run a bunch of them to a single amp or 2 strapped amps.

looks like its time that u weld some more metal in your car and get the 2xWarden 18s x 1000. If these things are that much more potent than the DP's, I can't imagine what will happen to his damn neon. He may just completely rip the damn roof off! HAHAHA!! The vids Robin shoots now probably aren't going to show the ridiculous flex anymore since Robin's recent improvements to the structural integrity of the roof, however I do believe the numbers should be getting awfully ridiculous!

I was simply under such the impression that these were not meant for daily usage?? This has apparently been significantly amended especially if they are that much louder and destructive than the DP's. I can't even fathom what this must sound like because I ran 3 DP 15's off of 2 Crunch GP 3000's and it was absolutely brutal. I shattered my windshield with the DP's, I just can't believe these are soooo much stronger. Very impressive Mr. Wright.

I assume you've tested both drivers in the same exact SPL setup to substantiate your claims?? The fact that your final statement says "As far as specs go I would say no", means that you have absolutely no experience in using either driver. To give such an opinion is moronic as hell and you should keep these kinds of opinions to yourself. Nick and Josh probably wouldn't write something asking you to STFU, but I'm not them. They are nice guys.

4 amps have been purchased and I may have a buyer for the other 2. Thanks again Jacob. You are indeed a great businessman.

e-mail has been sent sir. I look forward to hearing back from you. Brandon

Jacob, What would be the best way to contact you about these amps? I tried sending you a private message and it would not allow the message to go through because you are a member of a group that does not allow private messaging. I would be inquiring about 4 of them. Brandon

x 1,000,000!!! :bigclap:

Nick, I have had several people asking me lately what the T/S Parameters were on some of the IA offerings. Any idea when you might update the technical info on the subs on your site?? Brandon

Just as an FYI to you, I would keep info like this to a minimum. On the surface you could be seen as way for dope boys to launder money, unless I'm taking your statements a little too literally?? You should really be more careful with this information. Good news for you sometimes travels to the wrong set of ears. Just my $.02 and wanting to look out for you.

With 4 dual 2's? Unless you can series wire each woofer and then series wire 2 woofers again, I don't think it's possible.

It would be for the purposes of getting a 2 ohm load on a set of strapped amps. Of course I could run dual 1's and put an amp per 2, but I'm lazy ! What is the reason you can't on the DR's vs the DP's?