Canaan

Got out shipment of of E-series subs in this morning. Dolly-ed them in the shop and sold 2-12's before we even had time to get them to the back...lol. Going in 4.5cuft @ 33-ish hz on a Autotek SS500.1 Great little subs.

The link you posted lists ID, OD, and mount depth. Informative (and readily available, i'm not an idiot), but not what I need. I need motor diameter on all woofers.

I am a new Sundown Dealer and I have been seeing great results w/ these woofers. BUT...the lack of mounting information is really hurting my leeway to fully expand my designs in limited space builds. I see that mount depth is listed most subs, but motor diameter would REALLY help also. probably an unreasonable request (just wishing) but a google sketch-up model of the subs would make my world exponentially better I just finished an install today w/ 2 SD-2 10's in a '97 ext cab chevy (sealed ~.6cuft each, customer loved it, great low-end response) and I "called" the SD-motor diameter ~7". After crunching some #'s, I figured that I can build a SICK budget setup w/ a single SD-2 10" ported behind the seat of 99-2006 crew cab GM/Chevy trucks. I usually do pairs of DD1008's in these vehicles on 600-1000wrms, but the non-vented pole of the SD2 10" (i'll have to build/test the enclosure first to be sure) seems to allow for an awesome low power budget build. I pretty much REFUSE to use most 'shallow mount' subs. That is why I drive customers toward 8" subs in proper enclosures VS 'shallow' 10" and 12". So, with the non-vented pole of the SD2's I see ALOT of possibilities opening up where most shops would resort to the CRAP that is a shallow mount sub or a lower series/entry level sub. OK, so, TLDR. NEED MORE INFO POSTED ON SUNDOWN SUB MOUNTING SPECS!!!! Thanks

Just got a shipment of a few in this morning to try out. These little guys look mean. Doing 2-10's sealed for a customer in a mid-90's ext cab chevy on a DD CM1. Should have the vehicle in on Thursday, can't wait to see what they can do. I didn't realize just how shallow these subs were until I unboxed them. Looks like I can easily do 1-10" ported in ~1.3cuft net behind the seat of 99-07 crewcab Chevy/GMC. I have been doing 1 or 2-8" subs in these vehicles, a single SD-2-10" looks like it would make a very nice inexpensive sub for this type of install. Gonna have to try that pretty soon

yep, i'm on ecoustics. I dug around a little bit and think I answered my own question. And the answer is grim Looks like the owner will be sub-less until he can get another D1 kit...seems the D2 recone will not happen.

Ok, I have an older BTL18 that was originally a D1 (written on the pole) and its in need of a recone. The owner got ahold of a D2 BTL18 kit, and I got the basket cleaned up and ready. It an older non-woven tinsel kit. But, I have it a snag...the D2 coils OD is noticeably larger than the D1. I have the kit shimmed and in the gap, but is this kit going to work??? Or will the coil hit the top plate when playing? Its a tight fit, but does have some space. Anyone make the D1 to D2 switch? Please reply soon...the owner is in need of a sub.

Guess I'll stick w/ the 20.1's for now then. My 3515's are d1.5 and w/ my last box I was seeing ~1.5ohm rise on burp. IIRC, I was getting ~3.3-3.5k out of em on 1 batt dropping to 10v Now I have 3 batts, staying over 12.4v. Did 53's w/ the last box. Just ripped the old box out, rebuilding this and next week.

Ok, so right now I'm running 2 20.1's strapped at 1.5dcr daily and burping at .375dcr. This is on 2 DD3515's w/ 3 Deka 9a31's. I'm pulling my current box out tomorrow (was doing 53's). Will be rebuilding and going w/ a smaller box. The 20's are doing good, but I can't help but think...would a 40 do better? I have never played w/ a 40.1, so I have no idea what they are really like. So, what do you say?

But where is this meter getting its input from? You even said it in your post, the TL is a pressure sensor. That's different than trying to extrapolate an SPL result from a voltage reading... Just going by the voltage reading is telling nothing that relates to SPL... The meter itself converts the pressure wave to a electrical signal. Pretty much the opposite of what a speaker does. That output voltage is fed to your computer where it goes through the program's calculations. Your specific meter is calibrated based on its output voltage at a given SPL. So, say my TL has a K-factor of 177 and yours has a K-factor of 178. Those #'s are used by the program to calculate the voltage your sensor should produce at a given SPL. EDIT: Think 'inner ear'. Mechanical energy converted to nerve impulses.

I don't get why people can't see that this meter can work. I mean damit, what the hell do you think the TL does? Pressure wave in, converted to electrical signal, output to computer, run input through equations. Thats it, plain and simple. Input > Compute > Output!!!!! The weak link is your computer, or DMM in this case. That is why TL's come w/ a K-factor, so you the TL program has a reference to use in calculations. The TL is just literally a pressure sensor. IIRC, it records pressure in Pa and runs that through an equation...most likely an equation similar to: Lp = 20log P/Po EVERY meter/mic in the world (on its most basket level) works like this. Differences will arise based on weighting and calibrations, but all in all they are going to be similar.

car: 98 ext cab silverado Electrical: 180A alterstart alt, 3 Deka 9a31's Amps: 2 IA20.1 Subs: 2 DD3515E Box: Rectangular Mic: TL Tone: 47hz Score: USACi (outlaw) at Idle---153.1dB Going to a smaller box for better cone control, the current box is for daily music. I just strap the amps at low load for SPL.

He is 100% right on this one. DON'T USE A DMM TO SET GAINS! Here is alil demo I did to prove that you can and will clip your amps if you set the gain w/ a DMM: I set the gain on that PG600.1 just like all the 'how-to' guides tell you w/ the DMM. At low 60hz, the amp did not clip...but at low frequency, the signal was BADLY clipped.

If only one sub is getting warm and you don't have an amp or loading issue...I am willing to bet you have a bad/wrong coil in one sub. CHECK ALL COILS W/ A DMM. See what load you are getting from each coil.

WHAT WERE YOU PORTED TOO ??? i am going to build a 3cf ported too 52Hz i did the 149.0db in a 6cf @ 36Hz I peaked at 46hz w/ that box. My truck does not like the lows much. I'm looking into getting a vehicle to use for comp only though. Found a Sanoma I may try out.

Nice #'s. The highest I got w/ my 1 9515 was 149.8dB on a 20.1 at .35ohm dcr. Voltage was dropping to ~10v Good luck on that 150!