NB50

I can understand just caught a glimpse of the meter in that video. I am curious as to where your taking the voltage measurement at though, at the battery or at the amps terminals.

You can try this one. 3/4 inch wood after all displacements it is .526 ft^3 @ 33 hz, as recommended on the AA site. After I made it in sketch up and looking at it I suggest you might want to consider moving the woofer to the left cause I'm not sure how close it will come to the port opening on the right. I just placed it in the center for aesthetics. edit I forgot to put the top on it but just pretend its there and you can see through it.

This statement discourages everyone from helping you.

Its always nice to see one of your box builds.

I'm confused lol that is funny... all the BS amps you like.. and you tell someone that THAY wasted thair money. that is ass backwerds I was referring more to how he doesn't like sundown amps because there popular but loves Fi. But it also works that way too.

Go with the kicker over anything else that you suggested. I'm confused

nice cars In the second video it looks like it drops to 12.6v while the others stay at 13v. Where are you taking the voltage readings from??

Here this will get you started. http://www.realmofexcursion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22850 What are your maximum dimensions? and What are your goals for the box, ie listening preferences? Just looking at your picture with a 2 inch wide port you would be at 1.69 ft^3 @ 50hz without sub displacement. In my opinion way to small and tunned way to high.

What is the INSTALL ??

Check the stickies in the FI technical page pretty much explains them all. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...hp?showforum=68

You have the 4.6L in it right? my suggestion would be to search around for some audio clips even if they are for a mustang it should sound similar. Off the top of my head a couple companies would be Corsa, SLP, Magnaflow, Dynomax, Hooker thats all for now.

Why not upgrade your electrical instead of side stepping the real problem.

Isn't there a bunch of other threads that cover this.

Well what I trying to get at is just because you can fit 6 cubic feet doesn't mean you should use 6 cubic feet (especially in a trunk car). If you had the subs facing toward the license plate and the box was big enough to not let air flow around it that could cause a disappointment with the subs, and using a sealed alignment but expecting ported output.

Thats what I was thinking. What kind of vehicle do you have this in and whats your max dimensions (or the ones of your current box) ?

Why are you not satisfied with the L7s? What kind of amp were you using to power them? What ohm load are the subs, what load were you running to the amp? What kind of enclosure did you have them in? A simple enclosure change could solve your problem.

Yes it is, but it would be easier to set up by strapping the amps at 4 ohms.

I would also be interested in knowing how it works. My first guess would be a piece of piezoelectric material in the receiver that would create pressure into electricity. The only problem I'm having is how the frequency plays in as I believe piezoelectric material has a high fs, Not sure if it can be changed though.

You have the woofer wired to .5 ohms, to low of a load for the amp thats why its suck in protect. Hopefully you didn't damage the amp. You need to rewire the sub to a 2 ohm load to use it on that amp. If the amp isn't damaged it should run. Here is a wiring diagram to get a 2ohm load from your sub.

How exactly did you wire your sub up??? I dont understand how you are getting a d1 ohm sub to be wired for a 1 ohm final load unless you are only using 1 coil (which is a bad thing) it is not possible.

I have been debating on what to do with the Mach 5 MLi's that I bought. After debating on the decision I decided to try to design a Transmission Line from them . Heres what I came up with. Its a Transmission Line enclosure tunned to about 52Hz. Now I dont know everything about designing enclosures but I read all that I could and tried some things that I thought were a starting point. The box is not nearly finished yet. I still have to add a tweeter, crossover, experiment with stuffing, and put a finish on it. But it is done enough to give it a listen. Listening to I am fairly pleased with the way it sounds. It almost plays low enough to not need a dedicated sub woofer. It is still a work in progress and I need to build another one to make a pair once every thing is figured out.

wait fi and AA are made by the same people? Yes http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=14731

You might have to shoot him an email or pm I dont know how often hes able to get over to these parts. Heres the thread I saw someone had D1s. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...Havoc&st=15

I think if you talk to FI they can make some with D1 ohm coils. I though I saw somewhere where they did that for someone else.

1=A 2 OR 3 = C 4 = B AND D 2 and 3 is used to attenuate the tweeter to your likeing. Like if you use it at 0db and think its to loud you can hook it up to -3db.