NB50

There strictly dealer based now. There were on SSA to get the subs out. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=16686

I think you are talking about those circular multiple-leds that shine in a 360* radius, but not up or down. I know we have used a ton of them in installs at the shop behind my house. Somewhat, I was thinking more like if the plexiglass is thick enough you could mount them on the ends pointing toward the center and have a fiber optic effect so the plexi carries the light and lights up the etching when it hits it. So your lighting up only the etching in the glass and not obstructing the view of the internals. I dont know just thinking out loud. Seems like Ive seen it done like that somewhere.

I like the smoked look now. However, I am kinda interested in the idea of the etching but instead of back lighting it see if there is enough room for leds on the side on the of the plexi so only the etching will light up and you can still see the internals. Hope I explained it clearly, just a thought.

This will help. http://www.bcae1.com/

Add caulk or some type of sealant. I know when I built my first box with a circular saw the cuts weren't the greatest, but just to get a good seal to the box use some caulk/sealant to get a good seal in the inside of the box.

I think they are similar maybe the same. Heres how I come to the conclusion you can make your own or wait for someone with the information. First google searched the term venezuela basket and came up with this http://www.aespeakers.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=535 The owner said he used them for passive radiators so I checked there. http://aespeakers.com/drivers.php?driver_id=9 couldnt find any specs. Then I noticed they looked similar to the SS RLPs. Then I remembered seeing them elsewhere as passive radiators. http://www.creativesound.ca/ http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS-PR18-data-230907.pdf Like I said you can wait for someone who knows for sure or make your own conclusion. edit Devildriver might know (I seen he posted on the AE page)

Are those similar to the RLP 18" baskets?? http://www.soundsplinter.com/rlp18_subwoof...nformation.html

How about a little more info on your vehicle and current setup? You said 2 12" CVX's but haven't mentioned anything about box specs or power applied.

Two totally different subs. What are your expectations, goals, box space??

pfft I got room for a couple and still be able to cook lunch for 20 people. X2 on partsexpress

I didn't see any mention of remote out. do you know if it has one? That is exactly what he's looking for. He's just going to install a sub to his mom's neon. Unfortunately I don't think they have a remote lead on them, I did see any mention either. You could just run a switch and turn the amp on and off manually.

Navone Engineering reasonable price good quality. http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?24&cat=7

You cant measure resistance in a circuit with power applied. You need a clamp meter and multimeter to calculate resistance in the circuit with applied power.

Probably just impedance rise. What are you using to measure??

I wouldn't touch anything that says ma audio on it. No real reason why I just don't view them making a good product, I guess I kinda look at them as a new audiobahn. Apparently so ??? :(

I'm new to the ported designs.. In other words, i really have no idea what i'm doing. I'm really just trying to llearn. I need to make a vented box. I want it to be 5 cu ft. tuned at about 33hz with the sub firing up. the max height can only be 14" but I have a huge width to play with of 49" as far as depth goes, i have a big area in the back of my expy so i guess up to 25" would be ok. Somebody on this forum recommended the Re calculator and i was TRYING to design something there. Obviously i wasn't doing it right. could you throw some help my way? At least your making an effort to learn. I find the best way is to use a pencil and paper or modify that and put the formulas in excel. Heres a link to formulas and method of pencil and paper. http://www.realmofexcursion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22850 Since your making an effort to learn you can either try to design on on your own or try this one. after all displacements its 4.99 ft^3 @ 33.01 Hz with 15.03 in^2 per ft^3 of port area.

All the numbers work out fine. But that is not nearly enough port area for that size box you need about 12 - 16 square inches per cubic foot, you have about 3.6 square inches per cubic foot.

The thing is every time you break and make a connection it creates a resistance in the connection albeit small but its still there. Running straight wire takes that away, usually competitors do it to get everything out of their equipment. I see no problem going with a high quality terminal cup, binding post, or bolts for a daily driver. I use bolts cause its cheap and I am not to concerned about looks or the voltage loss.

I cringe at the sound of people mentioning REs calculator. I dont find it to be really accurate to other things ive seen. Here is an example of just a few problems I have with it. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...c=14119&hl= As for the dimensions that you used I got, after all displacements including sub, 5.03 Ft^3 @ 34.81Hz.

I dont see where you get 5 cubes from those dimensions. Is that for a slot port or round? If round then after all displacements I got 6.02 ft^3 @ 34.91 Hz.

With the numbers you gave me and using 2 12 inch BTLs I got 5 ft^3 @ 33 Hz with 17.4 in^2 per cubic foot of port volume. Id definitely go with the 12s.

I guess I'm a little confused. You already built a box but haven't decided on woofers yet. How bout a little more information on the box, dimensions, port length, tunning frequency?

I'd go with the 12s. Did you calculate in driver displacement cause the 2 12's should take that .4cuft up.

Thats a really nice looking head unit. I've been using my 880 for 2 years and have had no problems whatsoever. When I saw they came out with the 800 I thought about switching but cant justify switching for just a copper chassis and different looks (hmm I wonder if I can switch face plates).

bromo, Thank you so much for that plan. As for your suggestion about sub placement to the left, once I get the MDF cut I will mock it up and move it as needed. I'll post some pics as I make some progress! Thank you again. DoubleJ No problem Just threw it together from AAs recommendations. On a side note the port is 1 inch wide. I checked on the space between the port opening and the woofer cutout and it is only 1 7/8 of an inch. While theres 2 5/8 on the other side between the woofer cutout and the port wall (I must have miscalculated the center position). I would move it over to the left at least 3/8 of an inch.