NB50

Your going to run 2 on one 1200D?

2 ohms

D1 ohm sub wired in series will present the amp with a 2 ohm load.

The sub is D2 ohm and the amp does is rated power at 2 ohms, not 1 ohm stable. In other words if you want to use the amp to its full potential get D1 ohm.

Prong - Snap your fingers Snap your neck

Are you sure your not going to run into clearance issues with the back of the sub hitting the port?? And since you are using sketch up you can be figuring the box volume. All you have to do is select an area by right clicking on it then choose area from the menu, then choose selection from the sub menu. That gives you the area of the selection then you have to multiply it by internal height/length/width and divide by 1728 to get the cubic feet. With the way you have that designed you might have to subtract port volume separately, your also going to need to divide it into separate sections the triangle part on the side being one and top to bottom (picking the shortest depth) being the other. You also may need to work on you tuning frequency, I have a feeling it might be a little high.

About 3.2CuFt not including sub displacement.

That box is going to be on the small side for the subs.

I like this idea but before you can decide on the size of the sub you need to know how much space you have to work with. Just saying the box will be between the seats doesn't help much, I'd also consider a different amp.

I like the concept and execution of the box. However the problem I see with using poly fill in a ported enclosure is there isn't a concrete way telling how much volume you are gaining from adding some which in turn is going to effect tuning. But if you ended up being happy with the end result then .

The only way I see to wire an odd number of SVC subs and get a practical load is to put them all in parallel with each other. So for 3 subs you have 1.33 ohms and for 5 you get 0.8 ohms.

Are these PA speakers??

can I ask why you are fixated on using that box? You can build your own for cheaper giving you more budget for subs. I'd also rather see you buy one quality sub then three cheap ones.

Read http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7413

It isn't a bad idea it just ruins aesthetics if the port is in view. If your going to use bolts you want to use something without a coating on the metal, Ive used brass on a couple boxes that I decided to go that route on.

As long as you removed them. As far as using different components on the 22 board thats what I was originally thinking was that they ran a run of 23s with the 22 board. Short of getting a known 23 and comparing the component values I'm out of ideas.

That article doesnt sound like they designed AQ amps It sounds like they designed two amps to be used with AQ subs.

Whats your source for that??

On top of that after seeing some of their business practices I wouldn't give them any of my money. Could you elaborate on that? Are you talking about shizzon's great customer service? No I was talking about RD. Lets just say you can search but most of the threads may have been deleted. Not entirely true. Id rather have MTX, Kicker, or Fosgate amps over audioque or RD. Of course I like Sundown and may plan on getting them in the future but they may take a back seat if the new Zeds come out at the right time.

The AudioQue looks nothing like the others and I dont think I would touch the AudioQue after seeing shizzons trouble with them. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...amp;hl=AudioQue it could happen to any amp tbh... True but for some reason I view their quality a tick above hifonics Brutus series.

On top of that after seeing some of their business practices I wouldn't give them any of my money.

The AudioQue looks nothing like the others and I dont think I would touch the AudioQue after seeing shizzons trouble with them. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...amp;hl=AudioQue

They aren't the same amp they may use the same board but I doubt they use the same components. The build house I believe is Zenon which also makes some atomic amps.

Uh Oh, Looking at your pictures it looks like you may have gotten scammed. Kinda looks like they switched the board on you, they didnt replace the transistor clamps and didnt hook the chassis ground back up to the power supply end.

Pics might help to tell the difference. I also know some manufactures will make one board for multiple amps and add, subtract, upgrade components to make different amplifiers.