NB50

1. I'm not to fond of running car audio amps in the house and im sure the cheap amp you have now will be more then enough output for a room stereo providing a good enclosure. 2. Have you thought about designing your own bookshelf speakers. You can get some good designs off the internet and could be a good cheap alternative. look into zaph audio for some good references. http://www.zaphaudio.com/

I'm in search of some capacitors and after exhausting local stores I need to turn to the internet to find what I need. I would like to know where is a reputable place to get components at?? I have found a couple places that have what I need and dont have a minimum order amount. Has anybody dealt with http://digikey.com/ or http://www.mouser.com/ ?? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

*Flashback to Christopher Walken and fat boy slim video. You can go with this or you can go with that* :dancing:

Thats tiny. Whats the projected power output?

I'd like to run a pair of twelves at 1 ohm. Just wondering cause coil options aren't available in the SSA shop.

Any chance on different coil options on the Flat lines like D1, D4, or S2. Thank you.

I had a feeling that this question came from ca.com.

No that is their site. And who is saying its fake?

Good ol discussion gets the juices flowing.

Well if the box can only be those dimensions regardless, then I still don't understand why the sub has to be up. If you can't fit a larger box in there because of the opening (which I agree with, that was my problem as well), it doesn't matter if the sub is up or back. Unless making the box shorter (which you could in a sub up situation) would allow you to make it deeper and give more overall box volume? But still, like I said, with those dimensions you get about 4.2-4.3 cubes gross. That's enough to fit a ported 15. A couple aeroports would eat up less volume than a slot port, and some 15s will work ported in as low as 3 cubes. That was my point in the sub up configuration is to make the box 14"HX35"WX21"D so you could fit it in. The biggest box I have fit in the trunk is 32WX14HX21D and it goes in easy, as soon as you make the box higher you loose depth. I suppose you could do 32WX16HX17.25D and fire forward and seal off the trunk, I just haven't had to good experience firing forward.

True, but regardless the box will work well for the BL's I think.

The car I had my 15 in was a W-body, just like the grand prix. I had an olds cutlass supreme. Granted his is newer so there may be some differences. If you have 16" of height, that's enough for a 15. My box was maxed out for the size of my trunk, too, and it was 3.8 cubes net tuned to 30 hz. I also faced it forwards. I tried it both forwards and back and it seemed about the same loudness, so I put it forward for easier access to my amps (mounted on back of the box). I would argue that if you face the subs forward and seal off the trunk behind the front baffle, it could/would be louder than facing them backwards. Wouldn't have to worry about the box trapping the sound in then. Seems like we've been arguing like an old married couple lately No were not arguing were just having trouble getting our point across to each other. Anyways the problem with that body style is the trunk opening on it, short of building in the trunk or taking the rear seat out and doing some cutting your not going to get a box bigger then 32WX17.25X16H in there. I wish I still had that box I would take some pictures cause I've tried to explain this before. If you want a 15 in the trunk your going to need to do sub up, build in the trunk, or take the rear seat out and cut.

True is wont affect much but I like to be exact on calculating boxes. Well then we should discuss him using 1" on the front baffle, because apparently whoever designed the port didn't take that into account. The L1 length will be .25" off, and his L2 port won't be the right width. But really it just means his L1 length will be 17.5" instead of 17.25. No biggie. Regardless of the front baffle the port length would still be the same, panel dimensions would change but the length remains the same.

True is wont affect much but I like to be exact on calculating boxes. No we were discussing the port length. End correction is when your port uses a outside wall as one of the port walls, and it effects the perceived length of the port, as a general rule you add half the port width to the length of the port when calculate tuning frequency. After you add subs and bracing you should be tuned around 33Hz.

I have no idea how that got there.

I wonder how many people that are recommending 15's have worked with that body style? The only way you are going to fit a 15 in the trunk id if it is sealed or sub up port any other which way or build it in the car. I have that body style grand prix and the biggest box that I built that could hold a 15 sub/port back was 32"w X 18"D X 16"T and I had to jump on the box to get it in and disassemble it to get it out, Not to mention that it trapped the sound in the trunk. From those dimensions I dont see the box going bigger in any which way. It would be 4.22Cuft gross and after port and driver displacements you would be scraping the lowest recommendations on most drivers if not dipping below them.

As far as Ive heard windows 7 is what vista was supposed to be when released. So basically windows 7 is the fixed vista.

hmmm, How well do these drivers sound?? Always hear results on how loud they get buy not how they sound.

You will have a hard time fitting a 15 in the trunk the conventional way of sub back port back. If you decide that you need to go with a fifteen your going to have to go with a sub up port (back, front, up, side) configuration.

The maxxlink is the best way, otherwise you would have to gain match the amps perfectly or risk damaging the sub.

17.25" for the first leg + 4.5" for the corner + .75" for the L1 board + 5" for L2 = 27.5" You forgot .75" for the First port wall when you make the turn.

Wait Im confused so a donk is an 89. That is a double negative so it cancels it out right.

http://www.realmofexcursion.com/forum/show...ghlight=massive http://www.realmofexcursion.com/forum/show...ghlight=massive Read, I wouldn't consider using them but the final decision is yours.

Will/Could I send the sub in if I wanted to do the cooling/longer coil upgrade later on?

I wouldn't say the massive is similar to the zx2500. That would be an insult to the kicker, the massive puts out dirty power.