NB50

Did you actually check crunch's site? they state it is a dynamic rating. http://www.maxxsonics.com/crunch/PZ_amps_details.html

The new one has an upgraded heat sink and the SAZ-300D logo is on both sides of the amp. I have an amp that is over 8years old still running strong so the old 3000d should not have any problems.

What are you ordering, I've been looking at a set up also.

The first fuse between the batteries is before the wire passes through your firewall, then the second fuse is after the firewall, both within 18" of their respective batteries. Prevents a dead short should you ever get into an accident, or accidentally drill through or pinch through the casing on your wire. Comprende'? Yeah, what this guy said...It does make sense to me! If there's a dead short anywhere on that wire, both fuses will blow! IT'S THE SAME WIRE! Thats good that both fuses blow. If you dont have both fuses and there is a short in the wire somewhere what is keeping the rear battery supplying power to the wire? Sparks will start to occur then fire then bye bye car.

If you knew who Led Zeppelin was it wouldn't be.

Misty Mountain hop...... Top.

Thats fine for fusing. I have no idea how you had everything set up on your old amp. I just know I ran a 80A fuse to a amp that was rated for a 150A fuse and blew it no problem.

Okay, the current handling capacity of a wire is going to depend on a couple things What the wire is made out of, Length of the wire, and size of the wire. For battery to alternator use either a 250A or 300A fuse. What hifonics is telling you is the recommended fusing for the amplifier and that it is not on the amplifier so you need to put it on the wire going into the amplifier. Using 4awg wire and an 80A fuse for a 2008 you were choking the amp for power I dont know how you didnt blow a lot of fuses unless you were running at 2 or 4 ohms.

Battery to alternator is again depend on the wire size.

You just answered yourself if the amp is fused at 300 internally the wire going to the amp should be fused at 300.

Wires have a certain amount of current they can carry, put fuses in between the batteries for the wires current capacity. Then look in the manual of the amp you have and get the fuse rating for the amp and fuse the wire from the battery to the amp with that rating.

Fuse for the wires capacity between the batteries and fuse for the amps fuse rating from the battery to the amp.

So I will be in the market for new sub woofers and I need some help narrowing/making a choice. They will be 2 12's What I'm looking for out of the sub is some thing that will play nicely with the front stage, which will consist of Mach 5 mli65's in the doors and seas 27TFNN's in the pillars being ran active by an 880prs. I'm sure 2 12's will have more then enough output for me so that is not being considered. The subs will start out their life in a sealed enclosure but I would like them to be versatile enough to experiment with different enclosures. Power available is 1400 ~ 1600 @1ohm and I have no idea at other impedances its a sundown Audio prototype. Price range looking at 0 to $300 per driver Some subwoofers that I have been looking at are (in no particular order) SSA Icon 12's Incriminator Audio Flatlyne 12s ( They are on sale right now) Stereo Integrity Magv4 (problem only D2 available so only a 2 ohm load on amp for the pair ~300 to 400 per driver and heard they are a sealed only driver) SoundSplinter RL-P 12s ( problem only D2 available so only a 2 ohm load on amp for the pair ~300 to 400 per driver) Mach 5 IXL 12's ( problem only D2 available so only a 2 ohm load on amp for the pair ~300 to 400 per driver) Diamond Audio D6 ( heard them awhile ago and was surprised by them) JBL W12GTi Mkii ( D6ohm, Odd ohm load but shouldn't be a problem) JL Audio 12W6v2 ( Kinda pricey) Soundstream R1-12L ( Not to much information on these around Also pricey) Polk Audio SR12 ( havent heard much on them) Oz Audio Me 12.4 ( could be difficult to find) If I forgot any information let me know. Any other suggestions will be taken note of.

What direction would that be, that you don't want to take? Both of these drivers have solid rep. Dont care for the company.

Keep in mind that it is all in the install. If you can see if you can go to a few audio shops and listen, now this isnt going to give the best listening experience but you can listen to figure out if you like silk a tweeter or metal tweeter. When I was going to buy a set of components I liked the Boston acoustic pro60's I heard but I decided to go a different route.

Keep in mind if your mounting the subs on the 13" tall face, using 1" mdf you only have 11" internal height and the cut out is 11.125".

If you are open to different component sets some sets allow you to mount the tweeter on the mid like a coaxial.

The length of the port is measured down the center of the port. Because it has an turn in the port you must count the turn also, So it will be b + half port width + half port width + wood thickness + c

Death Penalty 15" http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/zencart...;products_id=22 With A IA 20.1 http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/zencart...products_id=111 I think this would be a pretty good combo with your budget. Hurry up and order to day.

From limited info I'd go either a single 15" or 2 12" with that space.

If your going to get the adapters, I'd get 6.5 speakers. The adapters say they work with 6.5s provided you have the depth and you should get a better response out of the 6.5s.

There is no way of telling that by the picture. Figure it out, Port area / total net volume = port are per volume. ie 60in^2 / 3ft^3 = 20 in^2 per Ft^3 general rule of thumb is to have 12-16 in^2per Ft^3

I believe he drilled extra mounting holes to cause that. Make sure the gasket is lined up with the holes, while you have the gasket off just make sure the holes are clear.

Is this 5 cubes net or gross?

Is that a prefab box, it looks a little on the small side for a 15".