NB50

NP

I dont understand anything you guys are sayin.

Please watch the abbreviations CA-f is nothing like CA.com.

Since they changed the way they do the leads I'm not sure on how this option is executed. But it was a thicker lead added for SPL purposes and could create tinsel slap when playing music. My question to you is what do the leads look like on the sub? Are they above the spider or sandwiched in between spiders?

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7153

What kind of car club?

The new ones are fugly.

Thats the plan. Maybe

What could they be? I love the packaging from the outside, all the Fragile tape and warnings. Reduced: 82% of original size [ 1024 x 768 ] - Click to view full image No hints yet. Good packaging though. Reduced: 82% of original size [ 1024 x 768 ] - Click to view full image Something from Incriminator Audio? Reduced: 82% of original size [ 1024 x 768 ] - Click to view full image Some Flatlynes Reduced: 82% of original size [ 1024 x 768 ] - Click to view full image Reduced: 82% of original size [ 1024 x 768 ] - Click to view full image They are a lot heavier then they look. Great build quality too. Stitched leads and Nice black chrome finish Reduced: 82% of original size [ 1024 x 768 ] - Click to view full image

Looks like they started putting a boot on the magnet. Is there a boot on there?

I am going to X2 this because many people don't know how helpful these people are. My story isnt with the dean but with the program director of the classes I was taking. Long story short I took all the necessary classes to graduate but never signed up for the program and they changed the requirements on me. So I thought I would have to take all the classes over again but went and talked to the program director and he helped me out by filling out the substitution forms and turning them in. So I suggest to anyone, go and talk to the counselors, deans, etc. they are there for a reason and sign up for the program even if you may change your mind later.

He doesnt hold a candle to Billie Mays though, that guy is everywhere.

Your going to love my nuts.

pfft What the hell is stopping you then? O and I got a new bookmark. Thanks

I think the ports will be fine the way they are but you could also cut the port exit hole to the inner diameter of the port and use a round over bit on it to create a cheap flare for the port then mount the ports to the back of it with a small board with a cutout of the external diameter. Kinda hard to explain but if you need more let me know.

Whoops thought you wanted a technical explanation on how the gain setting worked.

Do you have a router that you can use a round over bit on?

Are these flared ports or just straight 4" ports.

Welcome.

I believe he is a member here also. From the posts Ive seen of his he has enough knowledge to design a good box. If it is worth $10 to you go for it or you could try to do it yourself or find someone to do it for free/cheaper.

I'm intrested in what the CF and Brushed aluminum looks like. Are they new dust caps like a CF from DD and a brushed aluminum like the JBL GTi series or is it just like the others where it is only the symbol that will be colored?

What kind of credentials does he have?

I'm in search for answer for this, I have an idea of how it works just not really sure on how to explain it. I am sure 95Honda can explain it. My guess is the input sensitivity works with the preouts in an op amp configuration producing gain for further amplification. Now there is multiple ways an op amp can be wired producing different results but it seems to me that a non inverting configuration would be the one used. looking at the diagram Input = the RCA line left or right (there will be one circuit for each line) R1 = is the sensitivity knob (a potentiometer) R2 = is a resistor that sets how much gain is produced. R1 is set to drop as much voltage as Vin is producing so that 0V is across the + & - inputs. When R1 is set to a low resistance the voltage across the + & - inputs increases creating to much gain from the amplifier and driving it into saturation (clipping). This is just for the preamp stage the signal then goes on for further amplification That is how I assume it works but I could be wrong.

Thats a bad idea, aside from the wiring complications the 1500d is not a full range amplifier, it is a sub woofer amplifier.

Just asked the magic eight ball if I will get a new job this year and it said yes!