NB50

Why .wmv?

http://www.sv.vt.edu/classes/MSE2094_NoteB...as/history.html

Forgot to put the cutouts for the subs but I'm sure you can find the center of the board and draw a circle. Let me know if you have any questions or need anything else.

Do you plan on deadening the trunk lid if you went with a sub facing toward it?

Yes Using the smallest 45 of them already in there and placing it in the corner. I got it at 3.39ft^3 @ 34.29Hz with 15.48In^2/Ft^3 per chamber.

Yes, I can add all the dimensions to it. The way the design is now it is at 3.41ft^3 @ 34.19Hz. That is using the displacement of the IA DP 15 as I couldnt find the NS displacement, they should be similar displacements. If that is something you would want I'll add the dimensions, just let me know.

Similar to Durans.

I would put 45's in the T port to help direct airflow.

X2 Instead of getting the same size belt get a smaller belt when you buy a new one. There is probably a formula you can find on the internet to calculate the size belt you need for the smaller pulley.

You need more then just a DMM.

They dont make 300A midi fuses the highest they go is 150A. I bet you got the new fuse holder that spreads the load across 3 fuses so that would be 3 100A fuses.

Order them from knu.

Kinda had that idea just wondering.

Why do you have two accounts? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=24891

I apologize, I didn't means to jack beyondlogix thread. I just dont view AQ's amps in the same league of the other ones listed. 14.4V ratings & 1%, 5% THD rating arent what I look for in an amp, does that mean they are really bad no. beyondlogix out of the amps you listed I would go with either the DLS A6 or the SAZ-1000D both will have more then enough power to get the Q moving. I would be compelled to go with the A6 for the AB design but you will need a little more electrical to support it over a similar powered class D design.

What does that have to do with the price of beans? You said you would not buy them b/c you believed they were trying to fool the costumer & how they test their amps. DD rates theirs the exact same way & are made at the same place. So I simply asked, would you ever own/recommend a DD m1a amp? If so, why not an AQ amp which is practically the same thing w/ diff logo? Every amp I have owned and own has a 12.5V rating on it. I'd even consider a 13.8V rating but not 14.4V. lol. ok That's a pretty stupid reason IMO to base an entire amplifier line off of its voltage testing & not take chit loads of other people's feedback on it, but w/e. Ask ANYONE it puts out its rated wattage & more. I dont only base my decisions on specs there is feedback also. I do more research on one product I purchase then most people do on 10 products that they purchase My question is how do you know what those people tested with, that say it puts out rated? Do they hook it up and set the gains with a DMM and if it works they say it puts out rated? Or do they set the gains with a O-scope, clamp meter, and DMM, to measure power and make sure the amp isnt clipping.

What does that have to do with the price of beans? You said you would not buy them b/c you believed they were trying to fool the costumer & how they test their amps. DD rates theirs the exact same way & are made at the same place. So I simply asked, would you ever own/recommend a DD m1a amp? If so, why not an AQ amp which is practically the same thing w/ diff logo? Every amp I have owned and own has a 12.5V rating on it. I'd even consider a 13.8V rating but not 14.4V.

What does that have to do with the price of beans?

The electrical system in my car rarely fluctuates below 14.4v so this really isn't a problem for me. I sometimes forget people don't upgrade their electrical system. Exactly why I dont care for 14.4V ratings That is a first. I would consider AQ as cheap power not SQ oriented. But their stuff is still solid. Also, I REALLY doubt the OP would be able to tell the difference quality wise b/t an AQ/Sundown/Audison & so on. By looking at the specs I would put the AQ amps in the same league as hifonics brutus series. They are rated at 14.4V eww They put a silly rating on it of 1470@1ohm at 14.4V @ 5% THD <-- Ok, consider voltage drop. You'd still get very close to the rated power output of 1200w. Plus they can run @ .5Ω if you need them to. Brutus amps don't touch these. Everyone that I have asked/seen/talked to have great feedback on these amps. They put out rated power. By the specs they give I would not buy them. I do consider voltage drop when their original rating is 1200w @ 1ohm 14.4V 1% THD Why throw the 5%THD rating in, it seems to me they are trying to fool the customer. I just know I wont own one nor would I recommend buying one.

That is a first. I would consider AQ as cheap power not SQ oriented. But their stuff is still solid. Also, I REALLY doubt the OP would be able to tell the difference quality wise b/t an AQ/Sundown/Audison & so on. By looking at the specs I would put the AQ amps in the same league as hifonics brutus series. They are rated at 14.4V eww They put a silly rating on it of 1470@1ohm at 14.4V @ 5% THD <--

That is a first. I would consider AQ as cheap power not SQ oriented.

I would change the serpentine belt, more then likely it is slipping. It is the easiest cheapest solution to start with and besides the belt possibly being 15 years old it is probably time to have it changed anyway.

I would try this.

After all displacements I would put it in a .63ft^3 box. Do you have any dimensions you need to follow?

It is their recommendation Their site is different from what they recommend here. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7156