NB50

When people ask if a driver can handle more power then they are rated for it comes to a certain quote that is "if you have to ask then no they won't". In the right hands the drivers may be able to handle the extra power but in a novices hands they will fry in 2 seconds. Besides the fact that putting more power then the woofer is rated for to use daily is silly, you aren't going to get any more noticeable performance to the ear but only noticeable if you measure it on a mic.

Yes, the subs are only rated to handle 1000 watts RMS each.

More then likely both. You say your enclosure is 20.125" tall but the port is 18.5" tall, unless the wood used is .8125" thick something is wrong (I'd attribute it to measuring the carpet). The width of your port doesn't coincide with the first port measurement of 17", meaning in order to have a 6.875" inch wide port you should have measured 16.875" to leave 6.875" away from the back wall.

Your dimensions don't really add up.

Are you talking alge or carpet to different things I can deal with carpet but alge(fungus) no thank you, ruins a good clam.

LOL everyone talking about clams and carpet........ My minds in the gutter today.

Build your own with LEDs.

2 IA LI 12's.

No don't buy it, not with an Fb of 53Hz. Unless you competing and have done extensive testing and found out that is the exact box you need, and don't expect to play a lot of music and have it sound good with that high of tuning.

The port doesn't have to be an L shape. It can be an " I " if that is all the length needed to get the tune you need.

What are the tracks from the 80's? My front only setup does "manipulate your ears into thinking something was circling around you". One specific track I like to play to demonstrate it is Tool - ions.

With the exception of SACD and DVD-A I have never seen multichannel music (I'm not counting the quadraphonic either), let alone multichannel in a car. CDs are 2 channels. If you have ever sat in a decently set up car stereo with only fronts, the music engulfs you and sounds like it is everywhere.

You set your gain way to high and clipped the piss out of it. You set the gain for 1500w when the amp is only rated at 1000w into 2 ohms.

SSA Shop- SSA Dcon 10D4 Sub woofer300watt rms See the option to choose single 4 or dual 4.

DCONs come in single 4 ohm coils. Going by manufactures recommendations the SRx would work. But if you were to throw a little poly fill in the enclosure you should be able to use any of those drivers.

I'm using the tabs, the amp is mounted on top of the box now. Everything is now being run off the Leviathan. I still need to fine tune everything though as I set the gain conservatively. I'll break out the scope another day as I'm done for today.

Pic of mounting options. There are holes on all 4 sides only took pic of one side to get a closer pic. You can see the tab left on one side and I took the other side off for reference to the "ghost mount" where you can put a bolt through the board into the amp so there is no visible mounting tabs..

Got everything under the dash done that I wanted to get done. Took out the remote gain for the amp and put in the universal one. Ran a better ground for the head unit. I decided not to switch sides on the RCAs, I did loosen them up as they were tugging on the back of the head unit kinda tight. Now all I have to do is take out the sub amp and run everything off the Leviathan.

There is a for sale section, however you don't meet the requirements to sell here yet. **UPDATED** RULES - SSA Car Audio Forum

8 gauge with no electrical upgrades is more then likely the culprit, I wouldn't be surprised if the voltage at the amp was dipping into single digits and staying there causing it to shut the amp off.

There is two ways to mount it suggested in the manual. It comes with mounting tabs (painted 1/8inch tabs) and hardware to attach them to the amp. Or it gives you the bolt and thread size for a clean install where you can drill holes in your amp rack and put the bolts in from the back side so you cant see any tabs or anything.

So your trying to sell them when you don't meet the forum requirements to sell stuff here.

Happy Birthday!

Physical length = How long the port is physically, ie how long is measured down the center of the port to where the board ends. Effective length = How long the port acts when it is in use. Because of the way a slot port is made using 3 walls of the enclosure, air "sticks" to the walls before dispersing making the port appear longer to the enclosure.