NB50

If your talking about the black styrofoam piece no that is stock, tried to remove it but it was glued to the outer door panel so I left it.

No its only worth 75 dollars more.

If I'm not mistaken the last I heard he was working on a 4 channel and possibly a mono block. There is also mention of tube amps and crossovers in the Leviathan/Kronos manual.

The Icon is sealed, and sounds great, more then loud enough with only ~500w. I love the Leviathan, it has some quirks like a protection circuit where if you leave it to loud when you turn off the vehicle and then turn it back on it will go into protect. At times I think my protection circuit on it has been a little touchy but thats not a big deal. I also love the fact that I can run everything off of one amp.

Impressions... I will admit I was skeptical on how big of an impact deadening the doors would do, fearing I wouldn't notice a difference. I was leery the whole time I was doing the install. First impressions when one door was done, there was a noticeable difference in the way the door sounded when it was shut. It was a nice thud instead of the other door which was a higher pitched thud, believe me I walked back and forth opening and closing each door and listening several times. Driving down the road when it was all done was satisfying ( I live on a dirt road), the road noise was lowered by a lot. Then I went to an empty parking lot and listened to the stereo for about an hour and a half making little changes in the processing, eq, etc. Rolling up and down windows walking around the car, being more then pleased. Then went on a drive raising and lowering the volume noticing the differences in how loud a car passed , it is quite a difference quieter with the windows down and almost non existent with the windows up( all with the stereo turned all the way down). It appears that the sound from the stereo is cleaner also, which I would attribute to not having to fight the background road noise. So in short I am very pleased with the way it turned out and with the customer service from Sound Deadener Showdown. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

Now on to the pics and impressions. What I have to work on. Deadening done MLV installed Left door deadening

Emailed Don at SDS and he set me up with everything I need to get my doors done. Very helpful individual, I gave him measurements to my doors and he gave me a couple options of what to buy and even told me step by step how to do it. So needless to say I'm doing that today. However when I took my door panels off I found out I need to redo my speaker mounts really bad.

I believe you won't really be able to see the difference between a 12 spoke recone and a 4 spoke recone with the naked eye. The difference between the two come in the spacing needed for the basket, ie spider landing height from the motor, spider width( not sure if the widths are the same 12 spoke to 4 spoke), etc.

The SEx's don't use a 4 spoke basket, so not entirely sure the 4 spoke recone would work for them. Your better off waiting for nick or scott to reply or emailing them about the SEx's.

Sorry but the only question I could think of when reading your post was "Did Winona have a big brown beaver?" In case you didn't get it. Bad joke I know.

. 2.95ft^3 @ ~34hz after sub and port displacement.

3.16ft^3 @ ~36hz after sub and port displacement.

When dealing with a slot port there are two different port lengths, effective length and physical length. Effective length = The length that the box "sees". Because in a slot port it uses 3 of the enclosures walls and only one wall to set the port length, when the wall used to set the length ends the others keep going to make up the rest of the box. When the air travels through the port it will "stick" to the remaining 3 walls for a little bit after the physical wall ends making the port seem longer then its physical length. Physical length = Actual length measured down the center of the port. Basically to do it with winISD set your box parameter how you would like them. The port length it gives you would be the effective length and it is generally common to subtract half the port width to get the physical port length. So your port is 4"w X 14"T and it tells you that your port should be 26" long, subtract 2" to get your physical port length of 24".

it's 'around' 3.5 cubes, 28 x 16 x 20 Port length? Width? 24" long 2.5" wide. if i'm wrong please let me know. lol Which measurement is the height of the box, 16 or 20?

In the Air of the Night - Phil Collins

Sunny Day - Zug Izland

Pac Bell - hed PE

Current BTL back order - SSA Car Audio Forum

Just seen this the other day... kinda thinking of taking a trip over there to see what its all about.

Happy Birthday!!!

WinISD only calculates square ports not slot ports.. they're different. Not hard to add half port width to the length, as it doesn't take out port volume.

I've seen it a few hertz to >10 hertz , tuning isnt the only problem I have with it either. It can give you false dimensions and screw up your box if your not paying attention. And WinISD can calculate slot ports, just go to the "vents" tab and click on the port shape to change it from a circle to a square.

Under Pressure - Queen

So annoying when people make a comment on something they don't know about. Went golfing today and it was pretty backed up. Toped my tee shot and ended up just past the womens tees, waiting for the group in front of me to clear out of the way(about 250 yards away). When I hear the group behind me say "hit the ball, you can't hit them", well I waited a bit more then hit ended up right dead nuts even with where the group in front of me was at. I know how far I can hit my clubs when I get a good hit on them, I don't need someone thats never golfed with me telling me what I can't do.

Parts express. http://www.parts-exp...FTOKEN=14155613