NB50

Thats pretty cheap, would have thought move then that.

:facepalm: I guess my sarcasm didn't come across like I intended. The wires aren't moving cause of current, its because they are sitting right beside a cooling holes on the motor and the air is moving them. He didn't have enough amplitude to create enough air to move the wires. They are moving because of current. When current moves through a wire it creates a magnetic field which is reacting with the motors magnetic field and pushing and pulling the wire.

I don't know, I got them second hand. I know the Seas go for ~34 bucks a piece on madisound.

Yeah, I didn't know they were the same thing when I picked up the AA's. Sea's was on the left AA was on the right.

For 1700W there will be 58.31V applied to the circuit. And since you have all the mids wired in parallel the voltage will be the same across all the loads but current will be different. For the 16 ohm mids it would be 58.31/16 = 3.644375A, so 3.644375 X 58.31 = 212.50350625 W each. For the 8 ohm mid it would be 58.31/8 = 7.28875A, so 7.28875 X 58.31 = 425.0070125W. So each 16 ohm mid gets 212.5W andthe 8 ohm mid would get 425W. What amp are you using?

The power distribution would be uneven.

Oh great now people are ghost riding boats.

I wanted dimensions, as you might not need bracing. I don't think metal L bracket would help any. You could brace the outside of the box with pieces of wood if its necessary.

How big is the box dimension wise?

*cough* IA Lethal Injection *cough* Havnt heard too much about these, any reason why you recommend these over sa-10's? If I'm not mistaken he has ran an IA sub before. From the reviews I've read in the past the LI seems like it could be a good match for your goals. Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you currently have a D1 BL 12" and an AQ2200? I know its not "different", but I really think you should consider adding another BL. If you got the electrical to back running the AQ at 1 ohm you would certainly see a noticeable increase in output and it would match your goals very well in the right box. I personally would have a very hard time overlooking that option if I were you. It will meet your goals and be considerably cheaper than buying new subs. Just my opinion. Good luck with your system I hope it turns out well for you Correct, I have a Flatlyne in my current rotation of subs, it always seems to find itself back into my setup after I try different subs. It seems IA is often over looked by people and they shouldn't be. IMO I wouldn't hesitate to go with IA again.

*cough* IA Lethal Injection *cough*

Sounds like the dustcap has a loose glue joint.

http://www.termpro.com/asp/eventlocator.asp?Org_ID=1

All you need to worry about is doubling the port width when the two ports combine. From my calculations you are going to be tuned about 1hz higher then what that calculator says, and when you start putting in the 45*s like you are, you are going to have to figure out how much your port length and volume changed then recalculate.. Your also really low on port area.

Your drawing says it is 19.75 plus the top .75 = 20.5" and yes the port width needs to be made smaller when split. Length is to short. Think of each side as its own box.

Your numbers are all off. Your total height is going to be 20.5" but you have your port height at 18.5" when its going to end up 19" (assuming .75" mdf). And your port width should be cut in half when it splits to the separate chambers. Basically think of each chamber as a separate box.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJxcYWWLYYU

The cooling option is machined into the motor not the basket. Those are just venting holes and judging by the size on the new one three should be more then enough.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZ2mbCQdBQA

I bet they are selling the current version, they just haven't updated the product photos.

I know, but Fi has an option on their subs that allows you to change the impedance in the future. Do they build their AA Mayhems the same, universal or permanent impedance? I'm 90% sure they machine the motors to accept D1 and D2 impedance, we'll let Nick chime in. Ok, I appreciate it. I already called both numbers for AA and went through their extensions - the voicemails were full, too. I also sent an email. Basically, I just want to change an 18" D2 to a D1 and still have the power handling. I'm not trying to bother anyone or clutter the forum with simple questions. You should be able to do it no problem, the option for Fi was just machining the motor for a D2 coil gap. So if you already have a D2 coil you didn't need the option.

Hmm quite interesting, I love the underhung based driver I've used ( IA Flatlyne). Kinda curious on how it would sound.

They look great, really do the amps some justice. Should help sell some.

He owns SDS. Very helpful guy, Just tell him what you want to do, give him some measurements and he'll sell you only what you need. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi