juddspaintballs

just came across this link the other day. it compares different deadeners: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Do they not design them any more? no sir they do not. pete announced this less than a month ago on hexibase and i was sad. they were doing so many and they are so time consuming. they figure if they drop the blueprints and perhaps lower the price of built boxes, then they'll sell more built boxes and make more money that way. they also got tired of people posting the preview 3D sketch online and other people saying "oh that'll never work" or "i checked the tuning on that box in Winsid and thats not right" and bunches of crap like that. people don't realize that the vehicle the box is in plays a HUGE role in tuning and stuff like that and that Winsid is very inaccurate for vehicles because it calculates things based on a mic placed in an acoustically sterile room 1m from the sound source. for example: pete helped me with my design. a 6" round port 15" long in a 3 cube box with a 12" q and the alignment and placement of the box in MY vehicle will yield around 25Hz according to pete (and i'm quite inclined to believe him). if you punched that box size and port size into Winsid or an online calculator, you'd see that for a 25Hz tune, i'd need roughly 30-35" long of 6" port. anyways, enough of the rant. TTB doesn't design blueprints anymore unless you stop in the shop and help them. they still build and ship boxes though.

depends on your listening tastes and vehicle setup. different boxes are better for different vehicles. if you want sheer SQ and you're design skills aren't amazing, then a large sealed enclosure will yield some excellent SQ with ease. if you want to make a small range of frequencies boosted in loudness, then a ported box could be good for you assuming your vehicle can handle the size and such. a ported enclosure always has the drawback of frequencies playing below the tune sounding like crap and not being that efficient at higher bass frequencies. if you want to emphasize a range of frequencies so it gets quite loud in that range, then ported can be your friend. for an easy SQ box though, large sealed is your friend. for anything more than that, you'll hafto go to someone that knows bass better than i. i went to hexibase.com/forum and asked pete for help. he's a bass genius

lots of layers of good stuff like second skin or some other butyl based deadener

TTB made some good blueprints. i waited about 1 month too long to get one as far as i can see you did an excellent install. i'll probably get poked fun of more for my build cuz it's not as pretty.

if i ever move out that direction, would you do a shop tour for me?

dampening pad behind the woofer sound deadening your entire vehicle WELL will help with SPL. check competition rules as to how thick/many layers you are allowed if it is limited before you go slapping a ton of deadening down.

the back of the woofer doesn't look half bad

yeah, that is true. i love throwing a 1/4" roundover on all my box edges. makes it easier to carpet or it just looks so much more professional when painted/vinyled or whatever. if you had a jasper jig and a router, it's always a nice touch to inset the woofer too.

Put my order in around 12:45am (eastern) Saturday morning. can't wait to get it in. look for my build log coming up as soon as i receiver the woofer and router my flushed hole for the woofer. the box is already mostly built and the rest of my setup is nearing completion. i just need a 6ch amp and a $150 run to parts express

college is only 45 mins away from either location

im so jealous. you got one of the last TTB blueprints

thats what frame rails or electrical conduit and large power grommets are made for

mine is also SQ oriented. and gee, i just ordered the exact same sub about 26 hours ago...hmmm

dang, now im scared to post up my build log. nah, i had help from hexibase forum and the genius pete for my design least everything in my build is completely hidden cuz it's all gonna be inside a nice little amp case

I use 3/4" MDF, usually what's left from building boxes for other people (so my boxes are almost always free for me). i like to brace the MDF with strips of itself glued on the inside I let Lowes do the large cuts so it fits in the back of my blazer, then i handle the rest on my nifty portable craftsman table saw. I cut my circles with a spiral upcut bit on a 2.5HP router attached to the Jasper circle jigs. you cannot find a better jig for the money that'll cut so precisely I don't use screws. I use clamps (corner clamps are my friends) with Titebond III wood glue (stuff is freaking strong) and i drive in a few 1.25" 18 gauge brad nails with my brad nailer to each joint. i average about 30-40 nails total per box in the range of 2 cubic feet to 4 cubic feet. drywall screws were too much of a pain. had to predrill and then countersink all of the stupid screws when what actually holds the box together is the glue anyways. i dont think i'll ever switch back to screws now, brad nails are amazing

cool

im not feelin the box. the subs look squeezed onto the face of it like there was barely enough room. and i know the trunk is big enough that it shouldn't hafto look like that.

i think round ports can be made to look good sticking out though. say you had two round ports in an ex cab truck extending from the top of the box. you can put them at either end of the box and blend in the round 'towers' with a little fiberglass cosmetic trim. and you could get a slip on collar to extend the port i suppose. but it is my personal opinion that slot ports do look better than round ports sticking out ports outside the box do give you more internal room to work with, and if you figure that your port needs to be longer than you can comfortably fit inside the box, you could extend it out too. this could be especially the case in the trunk of a small car. if the trunk lid brackets prevent you from building the box more than X inches tall on the ends of the box but you've got several more inches in height between the brackets, you could build the box a uniform height and extend the port over the box a few inches (assuming you leave plenty of room for the opening) and it works out for everyone.

4 btls

also glad you gave an SQ review. wasn't it intended more towards an SQ sub? i've got the money now, i'll place my order when i get back to school next week

the fake suede would hide more little defect's i'd think. i used it on a box once and it was fairly easy to work with

i also bought 50ft of the welding wire off ebay a while back. love it, so flexible. and orange! with my name printed on it. definitely flexible and the double jacketing is great because i ran it inside my frame rail then last week i found a guy wanting to see me some 4/0 at $2/ft and i might just buy it and save it for the next vehicle

i've seen them outside before. usually extensions for guys who want a daily setup that they can take the extensions off for an SPL setup for comps. kinda a neat little trick but hard to seal the port up well without looking dumb

saw a guy on s10forum.com do a wedge wall of 8 SSD's in his blazer right when they came out. loved Fi since. then i saw steve meades setup in videos. wow then last night through really late night emails (east coast for me), scott tells me to join the forum here because i'm already writing up a build log that i'm going to release to the world in the next couple weeks. he told me i'd get a free tee