juddspaintballs

3/23/07 Finally got some pictures of it installed but lacking sanding, roundover, and bedliner.

that doesn't take into account the displacement of the port or sub. if you want 2 cubes after displacements, then you could start with the 2.48 cube box and subtract your port from that (6" round would take up less space than slot ported would) and also the sub displacement. that should give you right around 2 cubes, which is what the Q wants to be happy.

is it just me or is the circle cutout for the sub on the driver's side of the false wall a lil messed up? are you going to fix it if it is?

i just built a box for a 12" q with a 25Hz tune. pete with team toxic base helped me out alot on it, the port tuning is vehicle dependent and any online calculator will significantly be different than how my box is built for the port. anyways, i fit it in 30x16x15 with a 6" round port and 2.8 cubes after displacements. teh 25Hz is freaking amazing...SQ out the arse

i got a free sticker with my sub that came in yesterday...just cant find a place to put it. i dont do stickers on the vehicle so people don't know what i have...i have an iBook so my laptop is white, and i'm living in a temporary apartment. any idea where i should put the sticker? as soon as i write my review (i'm giving it a few days of play first), i should qualify though.

apparently they are having technical trouble with a few people's accounts and mine is one of the lucky ones

photobucket is being gay right now....

here's a few pics. my T nuts didn't work out so well (3 didn't set and were a PITA to get those bolts out so I said 'screw it' to the T nuts, rotated the sub 1/16" turn and cranked down some 1.5" drywall screws). all pics of the sub installed in the box with the exception of the last one are BEFORE i took out the T nuts and bolts. they were too much trouble in this instance. thus, the gangsta lean to the sub Las Vegas to Ohio in tip top shape My friend takes a picture of me while I have my hand up the box's ass trying to grab the T nuts while the magnet pulls my pliers towards it.

why not compromise and use 3 all going into a buss bar in the back and then powering each amp off of that? 3 will cover your butt for the extra pull and be easier to run than 4 strands. btw, i am in the process of a build log on a 96 jimmy/blazer (in the build log section) and i know how to disassemble the interior quite well in case you have any questions. btw, where did you get your alt and for how much

sexcellent. i'm digging the stained birch. if i ever did stained birch, i'd go with a darker stain for my taste

I've always wanted to try dados but I don't trust myself to set the depth consistently on my router

i've got a box sitting here waiting on the sub to come in, i should try this

cant say i've ever done it. i always have a few speakers lying around and a good test amp hooked up to a battery that i can quickly make some bass with instead of making it with my mouth

Sure, I am always up for a meet. Maybe we can grab a few other people, possibly build something. seriously? what part of MD? I live in Frederick but I drive everywhere...my fiancee even lives in Baltimore county

what type of binding posts? i was under the impression that the ones i use didn't need sealed cuz you pounded them into the box for a tight seal... http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...number=091-1246

cool

3/15/07 Just a note: Dayton Audio cables are by far the best I've ever used or seen. They're fairly inexpensive and well built. Here's a pic next to the standard crap cable you can buy at walmart for comparison.

Let me know what you think so far. Waiting on the woofer to install the T-nuts, test the sub in the box in my Jimmy, and then I'll bed line the box if it's acceptable. Infinity amp could be a while...I'm po'

3/14/07 Made a trip to Parts Express; only 45 minutes away. $145 worth of parts including 1.5' RCA's, fuse distribution block, wire terminals, gasket tape, binding posts, 4 100 amp fuses, a relay to turn on all my stuff, and a set of T nuts with bolts. Then, on my way back, I stopped in Xenia for some 6" PVC. Had to buy it in 10' section, but since I was in my firefighting uniform, the owner gave me a discount. $30 for the PVC. Bleh. Went back to campus and had a guy I know in the Engineering workshop cut it for me on a large bandsaw. While I cut the holes for the flush mount and the port, I started installing amplifiers, crossover, fuse block, and doing a heck of a lot of wiring. Here's the box with the port in place (ring inside holes it to the box wall and there is a cupped support underneath the PVC for support). One more pic with the top glued and nailed on. Lots of sanding will follow so I can cover it in bed liner. I did get everything put back inside the amp case for the night. I'm still running passive 2 way, although all the wiring is setup for me to do active 3 way. I could either use my two cheap amps (2ch and 4ch) and run active 3 way for the time being like that...or I could wait until I purchase an Infinity 6ch amp and be done with it. Sorry, no pics of everything put back in the case, but with the lid on you wouldn't see anyways

I put the screw in the last kick panel picture by now... 3/6/07 I had to replace a messed up RCA today so I took the time to reroute my RCA's to my new amp's location...the amp enclosure. I also took the time to take out some unnecessary plastic behind the head unit and manipulate wires for a better fit. Then, while the carpet was up, I ran 6 sets of speaker wire underneath and routed it to the amp enclosure as well. 99 total feet of wire used. I color coded the wire with electrical tape. I bundled the left channels in yellow and the right channels in green. The midbass wire got blue, the midrange wire got red, and the tweeter wire got white. This will allow me to hook up the speaker wires more easily without guessing which wire is which in the future, especially if I need to diagnose a problem. Sorry, no pictures. Nothing really picture worthy anyways... 3/10/07 In the wee hours of the morning, I submitted my order with Fi for a 12" Q Dual 2 ohm woofer. I paid via PayPal. $259 shipped is a good deal in my mind. 3/13/07 Made a Wal-Mart run and came way with a Duplicolor Bed liner gallon. I'll be using mini foam rollers to roll this on to my box. It should make a durable coating for the box since it'll be coming in and out of the truck fairly often and it will seal any leaks I did not seal from the inside. I like this idea better than carpet.

2/27/07 Crossover came in! PPI FRX-456 crossover. Got it for $125 shipped (used). This thing is amazing. I can do up to a 6 way setup with this sucker. If I wanted to, I could run 1 set of full range RCA's into it and have it separate it into all 6 channels (sub, midbass front, midrange front, tweeter front, midrange rear, tweeter rear). Of course, I'll probably only ever use it as a 3 way setup, and perhaps maybe run the sub into it too someday, but I have a head unit controlled sub output so I like that better. Here's some pics hooked up to one 5" Dayton reference and one Dayton reference 7" with the signal split to their proper frequencies, etc. I also painted Speaker rings painted and predrilled for mounting holes to the kick panels (countersunk holes) Installed the speaker rings in the kick panels. Yes I did mean to leave that gap there, and yes I realize I still need one more screw in the driver's kick panel. My 12th screw was flathead, not phillips like I thought.

2/24/07 In the wee hours of the morning... I sanded all the braces and board joints just to make sure they were perfectly even. Then I glued and nailed on the bottom board. Later in the afternoon I cut out some speaker mounts for my 5" references to go into my 6.5" kick panels. The speaker mounts do not take up the entire diameter of the kick panel (done on purpose so any water that may sit on there from my feet does not rot the MDF or speaker). They are pretty sweet. The pencil is there just to give you an idea of how it'll be centered in the kick panel. Of course...I'll primer and paint all of this stuff before installing. So far it's looking excellent though.

2/25/07 Started assembling my sub box I bought 2 90 degree corner clamps and went to town clamping/gluing/nailing the box together. The glue has a 30 minute set time in the clamps so it went slowly, but quite well. This is my first box to ever use corner clamps on and its amazing. I ran the bracing vertically on the box, and I will be flush mounting the woofer. And then the bracing. With the exception of the top and bottom boards, bracing is done. Done for the night

cool.

sounds like what i'm doing this time, except i'm going the extra mile of bed-lining covering my box which will definitely seal any leaks