Flipx99

Take as long as you need. You have been more than cool with me.

Crazy you test your drivers for things customers shouldn't do. I guess that's what quality assurance is all about. I guess I should just pick up an old one. Make no mistake, Mag's are still coming soon. I'm not willing to come out with a driver that isn't 100%. And yes, we TORTURE our drivers. For the record, it survived full-exucrsion for 15 minutes at 2.2-2.8k watts before it let go. And that's a driver that we're going to rate at 1000 watts. Just so I can better grasp the process...Once you find an acceptable proto, how long until they begin selling. Just in general, I know you cannot predict the future.

Crazy you test your drivers for things customers shouldn't do. I guess that's what quality assurance is all about. I guess I should just pick up an old one.

It is more just to do it other than a failure on what I have now.... I think enhancing what I have now will be better than trying to throw $$ at something... ----------------------------- Just trying to think of the best place to put this tweeter. Fortunately, S-10 trim panels are rather cheap. I plan to buy a couple sets of A pillars and kick panels to try out a few things. Nothing good ever comes easy, I always try to substitute money for installation skills.

Do you have a particular reccomendation in what I am trying to do, or would you stick with a 2 way active setup and be done with it?

I currently own the Cal27 and Profi Kick...I was wanting to add a midrange.

Unless you can mount them IB, or ap , I wouldn't. They need the biggest airspace you can give them http://www.hybrid-audio.com/downloads/Hybr...rs%20Manual.pdf I'd mount them in the dash, however airspace would be limited in a sense...

I can go lower lp on the subs...I just cannot go lower hp on the mids. Crossover limited? No. Manufacturer specifications.

What about the HAT Legatia 3?

I can go lower lp on the subs...I just cannot go lower hp on the mids.

Interested, but I don't need 4 drivers, only 2. But I am a rookie,.

I will check those out on madisound. I feel you on the pricing. Thanks for your help.

Personally, I think you should cover a much wider bandwidth with your midrange; maybe add an octave on the top and bottom (300Hz and 5kHz respectively). I have to get back to work, but I'll take a look at each driver in more detail tonight and try to add to this from there. The real advantage of a 3 way comes to life when you have a midrange that covers the most bandwidth, a large and powerful midbass, and a smaller dynamic tweeter for that sparkle on the absolute highest frequencies. Gotcha....I look forward to your reponse. Mounting in the 4x6 slot also opens me up to 3" cone extended range drivers, I can post a few of those here as well.

What do you suggest? I see many people on the s-10 forum mount theirs high in the A-pillar...which I don't think would sound good. If you don't think it will work, would a better suggestion be to mount them around the midbass in the door? The midrange and tweet about 3" above the cutout? There are a lot who have had good success with either an a-pillar mount or dash mounted in the spot where the 4x6's are. In my opinion, it's better to deal with the early windshield reflection than it is to try and work around the diffraction you see when installed in the kicks. If you mount the tweeter in the door off-axis, you tend to get a really drooping top end. From the midrange and midbass, most of your stage height and localization comes from having equal pathlength distances. For your top end (above roughly 2kHz), most localization comes from interaural intensity differences, meaning the difference in SPL and frequency response. I kind of got ahead of myself earlier: it's best to pair the location with the crossover points. Have you given any consideration to the bandwidth each piece will be covering? I had a similar suspicion about the door mounting. Yes.... Subs 20 - 63 hertz @ 8 db slop Midbass 80 @ 12 db ---- 600 @ 12 Midrange 600 -- 2500 Tweeter 2500 + How does that affect location? I don't think I can fit both in that place, but I am down to fabricate anything that will work and I am willing to take the challenge.

What do you suggest? I see many people on the s-10 forum mount theirs high in the A-pillar...which I don't think would sound good. If you don't think it will work, would a better suggestion be to mount them around the midbass in the door? The midrange and tweet about 3" above the cutout?

That is the front-runner. Price is higher than I really want to pay, but will work the best for the application. I have the option to mount them both higher in the doors, but I want to minimize PLD. The way to do that is in the kick. I was hoping someone with a truck (or did installs on them) would chime in to say "Hey, I mounted my tweeter in the kick and it sounded fine" "hey , I mounted tweets in kicks in a bajillion trucks. Aiming took a while with some. But I wouldn't let the vehicle out of my shop unless it sounded fine " seriously though , some of the strangest things , that you would think " no way in hell would that work " actually do work . For instance , make a couple baffles to play with . try mounting tweets on top and mids on bottom. Then flip the baffle around so the tweets are on bottom and mids on top . Do an a/b test and see which stage sounds higher . 9/10 you will be surprised by the results because it goes against what your mind is telling you should happen What is the best way to mount that baffle to the kick? Also does it matter that the baffles are not symmetrical? I have a hood release on the driver's side in the way.

I can see how off axis would work in a car...The angle at which you sit in the seat is quite different than in a truck. Do you just think I am over analyzing my situation. I have seen your pic, if you don't block the sound, I guess my scrawny ass won't either. Now...would you aim them or mount them in the kick where all drivers are on the same plane (the midbass will be in the door, but essentially the same plane. I have developed a solution. I can just buy another set of kick panels if I don't like it.

That is the front-runner. Price is higher than I really want to pay, but will work the best for the application. I have the option to mount them both higher in the doors, but I want to minimize PLD. The way to do that is in the kick. I was hoping someone with a truck (or did installs on them) would chime in to say "Hey, I mounted my tweeter in the kick and it sounded fine"

It's the aim I am having issue with. The Cal27 tweeter does not come with an angle mount. It mounts just like a driver. I have had some issues in the past trying to mount awooden mdf ring to plastic (glass, epoxy, etc). I am willing to listen to other methods though. I can make an angled ring to faciliatate aiming.

He's the only one I know who even claims to know something about designing custom crossovers. I can build anything with instructions. Do you have other suggestions?

Problem is, being in a truck, the angle is much different that in a car. In a truck you are at a much higher angle and your feet are in a much tighter space than most cars.... That feature also makes me apprehensive about mount a tweet down there. There would be no stage height.

Are they much different from the Daytons? To the OP. I wouldn't use the stock crossover for this, if you want to run three way just build a simple 1st order network for the midrange to tweet slope and call it good. It will sound way better than using something that is no where optimized for what you buy. True enough...that would offer me the flexibility to use 8 ohm drivers as well. I don't really know where to begin. I guess I can contact Ology Audio for some directions.

Good to hear.... I think most are mainly interested in pics and prices, a working website only facilitates it.

bah....I was hoping for a sub focused on the lower end. But that's because I can't build an MTM for home audio.

Still nothing. I would at least figure a response or post of some sort.