Flipx99

I guess not... Would a 12" be a better option? I was thinking the 18 for the impact, but I guessing I could design a 12" sub to blend better and still have an impact. The budget is about $5-600.

I am interested in just a small 2.1 bookshelf system for my living room. I don't really want a whole 5.1 setup and no one else seems to care about it. The major reason for the 2.1 is mostly for movies/TV/sports/games....maybe 5% music. When I looked around, I liked the new Harmon Kardon HK3490 or whatever that does 120x2@8 ohms. I am going to pair these bookshelves with a 18" Mach Audio with a 500w plate amp. So I want something that would cross with it well. I have been leaning toward the Klipsch Reference RB-81 or something similar although the RB-61s are more in my price range. My budget is around $5-600 for the speakers. I already have stands, which are kind of tall so I don't really want MTMs and they are too awkard. As far as DIY, I think the occam kits are the extent of my building...which is essentially assembling the xover, speakers, and wood. I am not sure my capabilities are greater than that. Thanks, Josh

I got my alt from Summit. There was a small mixup on whether I needed a CS130D or 130 case size, otherwise it is great. I like how the alt comes with a birthsheet.

Hello. I am currently wanting to redo my setup to a nice bookshelf, center channel, and sub setup. I already have a nice sub so I'll keep that and use what I have now for something else. My budget is about $600 for the the bookshelfs and the center channel. I currently have these speaker stands http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...FTOKEN=79969804 and wish to keep them. However, I think this may restrict the height of my bookshelfs. The center channel will be placed under the TV. Any suggestions?

Thanks for a link to that audioholics forum. I think reading the reviews will give me a better grasp of what is what.

I see your point. I am all for the DIY thing but building the crossovers is a bit beyond my level of expertise. I am looking for something either already together, or easy to assemble (with prebuilt crossovers). I would think the best solution would go ahead and buy a better 5.1 receiever because I know I want a center channel some day. Just buy a nice 2 channel and buy the center channel when I can afford it. I looked at the 5.1 chad posted, I am unsure if 30 watts will be enough. I am thinking something that does 5x110 or so for a budget around $300.

I though the center channel was the most important speaker for movies. I watch movies more than I listen to music. So do you think a really nice 2.1 setup could accomodate this?

Thanks. I will look into the 1st one when I get home. I think what I am going to do first is replace the reciever to see if that changes anything sound wise. Something tells me these polks can sound good. I am looking into either the Denon, Pioneer Elite, etc is the $400 range. So I won't have to upgrade and then I'll know whether or not is the the receiver or the speakers.

That is what I find so funny. They make them so complex we either forget them or have to write them down...either way, it doesn't seem like a very effective way to safeguard something. I would be happier with a retina scan, thumb print, drop of blood or something. I use this one 18 digit PW one time every two weeks and they seem to be surprised that I never remember it and have to changed.

I guess that depends on how complex that have to be. Some of ours require 3 lowercase, 3 uppercase 3 numbers 3 special characters, no dictionary words and no series of adjacent keys.

Any progress or updates?

Are there any reccomendations for freestanding subwoofer amps? I am looking to acheive 400w@4 ohms. Here is an example of what I am looking for: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-qUe2aOrSg6j/c...amp;i=107SWA500 I want something more in the $250-300 range. Any suggestions? I will be powering two S-1 10s (the Sundown blowout sale sub) in a sealed enclosure.

What is the diameter of the magnet/motor structure for this sub?

Which one? The 10" sorry.

I drive an 01 S-10. The width of the console is ~6.5". I have an ext cab and fire the sub backwards....and hide the amp in the jump-seat area. So what I guess would be best is a 10" that would work in around 1 cf with a motor diameter of less than 5" to fit in the space. It would stick out some behind the seats, but I don't think that would be a huge issue.

I was curious of any of your experiences with 6.5" subs. I saw this thread on DIYMA as sometimes they get too technical for me. I was wanting to put two 6.5" subs in my truck, but I am curious how well they will balance with the rest of my system. I currently have 8" Rainbow X-plain midbass and Cal27 tweeter. I can fit 8,10,12,15,18...but if I can do more with less, I think that will be great.

Console is not wide enough for an really...I think I can do some mods if I had a nice sealed 10. It would just need to be cast basket instead of a 12 spoke. I would need it to slope in a narrow way pretty quick. Just kicking around some ideas... 0--------0 I am never going to finish because I keep thinking of "better" ideas. My install keeps evolving.

I do not have a rack to mount it so I was trying to shy away from them. I don't really like the tabs. I guess I could grind them off.

They work in TINY enclosures... 99% of the people that bought them before the close-out sale used them in truck boxes. 0.5 ft^3 with some polyfill is no problem... could even go a hair smaller with a denser poly stuffing. Indeed. Now they are going to be used in home audio in those PE boxes. I think they are .8 cf and you didn't mention them needing any polyfill.

I will be there.

Doesn't say... I get conflicting details. One one hand it says "Frequency repsonse 1kHz to 30kHz... On the other hand it says crossover 2.5 kHz. I guess I start at 1k and move up until it sounds good?

I currently have Rainbow Cal27 tweeters and Rainbow Profi Kick midbass. I am looking for a midrange to make a "hybrid" 3way frontstage (that words seems rather redundant ) I have a profi crossover and the intent was to place the tweeter and small dome midrange quite close to each other in the kickpanel, while the midbass is in the door. The midbass will be in the door. The specs on the midrange need to be a 2" dome with ~ 1" mounting depth and 4 ohms (because of the crossover, I am unsure how the crossover point will be affected by an 8 ohm midrange. I feel that my 880 should be able to t/a the midrange and tweeter because they are so close together, they will act as one source. My budget is $200 total, any suggestions?

2.2 is what the manual says.... Most minitruckers tweed because it's cool. I tweed for SQ....

I am going to try choice #2 initially. I am just worried about the dash. The dash is quite plasticy.....perhaps this will give me a good reason to tweed my dash as I can install a could layers of ensolite to the dash to reduce those effects. Will 2.2k be low enough?

It is more just to do it other than a failure on what I have now.... I think enhancing what I have now will be better than trying to throw $$ at something... ----------------------------- Just trying to think of the best place to put this tweeter. Fortunately, S-10 trim panels are rather cheap. I plan to buy a couple sets of A pillars and kick panels to try out a few things. Nothing good ever comes easy, I always try to substitute money for installation skills. Except fundamentally good 2 way drivers don't usually make good 3 way drivers. When a driver is optimized for an application using it outside that application typically has ramifications that aren't worthwhile. Obviously you are looking at this thinking that if you remove some of the frequencies that your drivers have to play you will reduce the stress on them, but in reality this isn't too much the case. Sure it will help a little bit, but finding a midbass driver that is only a midbass driver and you will have way better output in both volume and frequency response than if you use a midbass/midrange driver just for midbass. To me, I'd either keep what you have or sell it all and start fresh. Adding another driver really doesn't make a whole lot of sense. You also need real processing to do this and should get that first. That answer has been staring me in the mirror for the long time.... Thanks for the tips on the midbass/midrange. Mine is designed to do both...I was just trying to "enhance" it.