profundus-sanus

are they available in any other vc's than d4? Also would you say they are thermally or mechanically limited to their rms?

btl 12 off an hk4000 @ 2 ohms.

with the kicker doing rated at 2 ohms thermal power handling won't be quite as much of an issue. i'd get the zx, pole chamfer, and flatwind.

i really appreciate your help alot scott. I'll just stick with the standard spider pack. I'll be running an interchangable port for when i do spl comps so i'm sure the stiffer spiders would help for that anyway. I put the btl 12 in my girlfriends car, replacing a power acoustik fubar. I might just leave it in there, she loves how it sounds compared to the pa, so thats really saying something. Its much more impactful and authoritative and just sounds all around great. Almost too much, and only off 900 watts.

more or less i'm just interested in how bl's sound. I ran a 15" q in 4 cubes @ 29hz for about 5 months and loved it, just wasn't loud enough. I bought a btl 12 about a month ago and frankly i think it sounds like crap. Its in this My buddies mt of an xx-herc has the same sound quality to it so i figured its just the way the sub is. Just sounds distorted and almost sloppy. An hk4000 was ran for the most part on both setups(i ran an opti2000d for about 1 month on the q) and will be with the new one. So i want to see if bl's would sound significantly better than the btl's. Wanna do a pair of loaded 15's in 8 cubes net @ 30hz w/ 4 6" pvc ports in the backseat of my chrysler sebring coupe.

so its pretty definite that i'm getting the btl's. i need help with box specs... i want it to play pretty well flat from 60-25 or so. Just so you don't have to read back through its for 2 18" btl's in the back seat of a sebring coupe. I was thinking like 10 net @ 30-32 hz. Largest i can fit is 10 net w/ 113 sq inches of port tuned to 30. Firing both subs and port forward with the port in the middle of the subs was my best guess for phase alignment. Also, how do you think triple spiders would help on efficiency? The subs won't ever see more than 3kw a piece @ 2 ohms, subs are loaded. Or do you think the suspension would be too soft to control cone movement?

Can't you give them multiple warnings till it stunts their posting? We can warn someone into oblivion here. They still exist as a user, but they can no longer post until we decide to either decrease the warning level or until mark or aaron ban them. if we give them 3 warnings, they automatically get a 3 day ban. It's not an IP ban, so most just create new accounts and cause trouble, and even then after 3 days they are automatically let back in. If there's a spammer who only posts twice, we can't do anything about it except for delete the posts, they can come back 3 times before we can give them a 3 day ban. Don't take me wrong here, my issue is with Shon, not with any of the SSA crew, since we've brought this up many times before and nothing was ever done about it. I have nothing against SSaudio or denim, I have utmost respect for the guys. And although I'm a ROE moderator, I like this site a lot, and I frequent it often, it's kept under control and I like the atmosphere and the people here. Reminds me of ROE a couple years ago before the kids showed up. i didn't realize you guys were that limited..... An active admin should definately help. That and give you guys some more bite.

is the sub out turned on on the head unit? if your sub is a d2 and its wired in series, as your diagram shows, then the amp would turn on...just not put out its full power. You need a d1 sub to wire to 2 ohms.

i'm glad you guys are helping out. I spend most of my time over there but i come over here a bit since it seems to be one of the most in control forums and i can actually learn. I don't often gain much knowledge over there... i'm more there to help really. imo the moderation staff has been a a bit underpowered for a while on Roe. I think 2 more mods would help that site quite a bit. Although i would say pick some mods from over there, just to kind of keep the atmosphere the same...with less chit...there isn't a whole lot to pick from.. A lot of the people that would have deserved it left..since it got so out of control. Even if the forums did merge the idiots would be weeded out pretty quickly by you guys.

i got your point.... you cant talk about sound quality unless your talking about flat response. I think of it a different way.... if i'm saying it the wrong way then why don't you tell me how to fix it...not just tell me i'm wrong.

i currently have an hc2400 under the hood, a 140 amp alternator, 2 runs of kicker hyperflex 1/0 to the back, and hyperflex 1/0 for the big three. I get about .3 volt drop with the it at full wang (set to 3400 @ 2 with a -3 db tone) I'll be doing another run of 1/0 to the back and adding an hc1800 for under the hood then move the big boy to the back(it really doesn't fit in there anyway was to comply with street class rules tho). I also am going to look and see if a local shop can up the output of my current alternator and how much. As for the sq of the hk4000...i'm aware it sounds like chit.. i got it for 300 bucks shipped and was running a cheap high current low voltage amp at the time.... seemed like an okay upgrade. I'll be looking for something much better soon. Any suggestions for 6kw @ 2 ohms?(other than the a6000gti....i wish i could afford that thing.) When i speak of sq, i'm asking how is the sound quality of said component, not is this a sound quality dedicated component. If you look at another way then we can agree to disagree. f

sorry i didn't get back to you guys sooner. i'll send him over here.

from what i figure i can sqeeze 10 cubes net w/ 140 sq in of port @ 32hz. That'll be a single layer of 13 ply birch with some fiberglass and a bracing as needed. I decided i want to quit screwing around with that trunk..... or small setups for that matter. Now i'll just have to find an amp... And some recones

i'm thinking about buying galacticmonkey's 18's and reconing them. Just depends on whether i can gather the money before he sells them or not.

thought about it but its too late now. Already sold it.

i'm going to listen to the btl 12 for a bit in the box its in now and see. It'll be one or the other.

i tried the btl and in the other box today...although output dropped significantly it sounds much better...Sounds fine as long as your head isn't right next to the woofer. I won't hold ttb responsible for that as my construction of it was questionable. Now i'm debating buying devin's (gmonk) pair of btl 18's that he has left.

i noticed very few people saying that they didn't like how the btl sound so maybe something isn't right. I will try it in another box to see...1.75@33 W/20" of port, something i have lying around. Realistically i'd much rather run btl's due to the planned nature of this install, doubling as a db drag setup as well. thats really what i was looking for. Someone thats used several subs and knows what a good sounding sub sounds like. my btl is loaded. I'll try the it in a different enclosure just to make sure its not this one. That one from ttb is 1.5 cubes w/ 75 square inches of "port". I believe its their transmission line/ported hybrid.

one of my friends has 4 in his astro right now, i believe the plan is to eventually add 4 more for bassrace 140-149. I don't know if he's a member here or not but his user name is the mommy van on caraudio I haven't heard it yet. was supposed to today but i woke up too late so i just didn't go to the show.

i've sent a couple of emails but have gotten no reply so i figured i'd just make a thread about it. I'm going to need a recone for a loaded universal btl 12. also i've heard a little bit about tinsel slap problems. If subsonics are kept under control is it really a problem? Any possible performance difference between the d2 vs d1, amplification held aside? If not then d1 is my preference.

would a universal sub be different enough from a non universal sub to not be able to work in a common chamber? Both loaded and the non universal is a d1. If they won't then i'll just sell the one that would have lesser performance, regardless of how marginal.

if you want i can modify this for you tomorrow morning. 3.5 cubes per side @ 31hz with 100 inches of port, depending on planned power, would be my suggestion.

if your head unit has a subwoofer output level on it then adjust that instead of the bass boost. http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/setgain.asp ^^thats how to set your gain with a voltmeter. Unless your running the bl's at 1/2 ohm they should be fine, providing no clipping is introduced. I've ran well over 2kw @ 2 ohms to my q without thermal problems.

another question, would a non universal d1 sub and a universal d1 sub be able to work together?

its 1.1 cubic feet before or after all displacements? also what was your other enclosures specs?