MatthewMoran

I know I'm a little late to this post but i want to chime in because I'm a CS/EE and I'm from Michigan. Ive had this issue, but i wouldn't worry about it if i were you. There are a few things to keep in mind; electricity follows the path of least resistance, water is not a good conductor(especially compared to the metal in the amp), the circuit board will not have as much condensation on it as the heat sink (in fact there is a chance there isn't any water on the board), and electronic circuits have some tolerance to short spikes(if a short actually happened because of a small amount of water it shouldn't last long because that water will start to evaporate). As for the sub it is out of my expertise but i have never had a problem. I would guess rust is possible but unlikely with the amount of water on the sub over a year vs the average lifetime of a sub. Edit: Also it should be noted that the outside of the heat sink will have more water than the inside since the water is originating from outside the amp, making this even less of a concern to the amp circuitry.

My goal is spl at sub-30hz. The reason why I am wondering about these configurations is that my trunk is large but has a very small opening between the trunk and the back seat(and im not looking to wall yet). So the most I can fit flat with sub and port forward is 2 12's. But I have the cu ft for 3 to 4 12's. Well you want as loud as you can, break out the plasma cutter and the sawsall and start cutting that opening to make room for a large enclosure to slide into it. I can expand it by about 2-3 inches after that i would hit the strut towers, I can fit a large box in through the trunk opening. If I decide to make a box as described are there any problems I will run into sound wise?

My goal is spl at sub-30hz. The reason why I am wondering about these configurations is that my trunk is large but has a very small opening between the trunk and the back seat(and im not looking to wall yet). So the most I can fit flat with sub and port forward is 2 12's. But I have the cu ft for 3 to 4 12's.

Does anyone have experience with sub tunnels(diamond,hexagon, octagon) or manifold style boxes? I was wondering how they are for spl at low frequencies 25 to 30 hz(compared to a straight wall)?

I had this problem when my RCA's were too close to one of my power wires. If you have an extra set of RCA's try running them over the seats and away from the power. If that works then just re run your RCA's. I usually run my power up the driver side and my rca's up the passenger side.

If you dont want to amp id say re comps(not the xxx's). They are 50 watts rms, and sound really nice. The magnet on them is significantly larger/stronger than the other comps I have had experience with(which isnt many), and they start getting loud off of little power.

What are the other subs you are comparing it with?

I was wondering what the pros and cons were to having subs face each other? ie would they pressurize the air better? (since both subs are compacting air on a certain point) To answer this consider same number of woofers, and for enclosure type consider straight wall compared to clamshell. thank you in advance for any insight.

I have to lower model(re comps), and id vouch for them. Im sure the xxx ones are even better. Mids and highs are really clear. I cant speak for midbass since i have an 8" woofers in my doors for that. What really surprised me was how loud they got, much louder than my RF power comps(I have the RF comps on 100 watts while the re comps on only give 50). One thing to keep in mind the magnets are huge. just to reiterate, i have no experience with the xxx comps, but the RE comps impressed me.

I suggest you watch the documentary "Fathead". It used to be on netflix and may still be. He shows you can lose weight only eating fast food(not advised but possible). So with a healthy diet following those guidelines you should be able to shed the weight.

Yeah I plan to do a removable areo port so I can drop tuning for daily. Its good enough for me

When I said squeeze I meant to get the box into the trunk, I can make the box to recommended specs(2 15's is more cone area so im looking at that more than the 21 any way). And I'm asking for knowledge not out of hesitation, to clarify I dont think hes wrong, but I'd like to know why hes right. Also I do have an amp, aq 2200 and id be adding another for the 2 speaker set up.

I Figured, whats the reason to not wall off the trunk? I was under the impression not walling with subs forward will add cancellation from the sound going into the trunk then back out. Also poll has been updated to add 2 15's

This is a good idea, and could be another option. The only problem I could think of is my strut towers stick out about 6"-8" from each side leaving 36" in between, though i could move the box a little farther back. This has been proven to be the loudest SPL trunk setup. When you say "not sealed" do you mean trunk or box? I planned on porting the box, but if you meant the trunk is there any reason why?

This is a good idea, and could be another option. The only problem I could think of is my strut towers stick out about 6"-8" from each side leaving 36" in between, though i could move the box a little farther back.