Z1truth

After last week getting the flu and this week it turns into bronchitis I still have managed to brace my sub box, put in binding post terminals, and mount my subs for 2 ohms and install the box in my Z! Damn I'm tired.....that sucker weighs 86lbs! Tomorrow I mount the Kicker KX2500.1 amp on the amp rack! SLOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWW but SURE!

Thats 15 years of SWEATIN MY ARSE OFF........for fun! And flakko..........diggin the doo!

Thanks everybody for the kind words! I personally love those grills and think they look kinda good! DRWANG84 and NDMstang65 I did put 1/4 inch spacers under those grills. I e-mailed Scott and he said that if I had a 5/8" gap from the top of the arch of the surround it should be good and since it was only 1/2" I made some 1/4 spacers. I actually now have about 11/16" to 3/4" gap so I hope I'm good to go! May I ask what you used as the spacers? Does it rattle the grill at all? I've been having this problem myself and I was wondering if I could get a tip or two from you. Thanks. Bytheway, I don't know what the recommended gap is for a 12" BTL. So if someone would please post that info, I'd really appreciate it! Hey Drwang84, What I did was make a paper template of the bottom mounting plate of the grill that screws to the box. Then I went to HomeDepot and bought a 4' X 1" X 1/4" strip of hardwood trim. I then jigsawed the template shape for each side, sanded them smooth and drilled holes and painted them black. I then bought longer screws to go thru the grills and spacers. If you are rattling try using some blue (medium)loc-tight on the screws that hold the bars to the mounting plates. Thats what I did! Works great! If my 10's needed 5/8" to 3/4", I would probably guess you would need around 7/8" to 1" to be safe. Just a guess.......

Thanks everybody for the kind words! I personally love those grills and think they look kinda good! DRWANG84 and NDMstang65 I did put 1/4 inch spacers under those grills. I e-mailed Scott and he said that if I had a 5/8" gap from the top of the arch of the surround it should be good and since it was only 1/2" I made some 1/4 spacers. I actually now have about 11/16" to 3/4" gap so I hope I'm good to go!

Heres a shot of it that we did for a import car calendar! It is setup with a Veilside kit!

Everything has a price my friend!!!! If you gots d cash!!!!!!!LOL!!! Thanks for the compliment brother!

My new Kicker KX2500.1 D class (last years model) amp will be driving 1000 CEA rated WRMS to each of my 2 10" Q's! The birth sheet says 2675WRMS @ 2ohms!

Since HawaiianBassHead prompted me in my last post and I'm running a true 900 to 1000WRMS to each sub with less than .70cuft per sub in a my sealed box .....I added this bracing. Whats the concencus boys....good move or OVERKILL????? BEFORE AFTER Also my new terminal install. I like better than the terminal cup!

Yeah those are cool johnny! Thats what you call industrial!!! LOL! And yeah tej I bought mine definately at Partsexpress! What a great resource!

Cool.......was hoping I would get some good responses with the pics. Thanks guys! Well it's time to throw the subs in , put on the grills and call it a day! And yeah the Z is a kick in the pants.......it drives like it is on rails! You only live once! hehehehehehe!

Thanks guys! This place is the best! That is exactly what I have....... clear ATV Silicone. And juddspaintballs those are D posts I have also . Like Grim said....a little silicone can't hurt!!!!

Hey guys, Mr. Noob with here with another question again.......I am putting in binding posts to replace the terminal cups in my sub box cuz all my wiring is 8 gauge and the cups do not accomadate 8g wire. Plus I always go "OVERKILL" for peace of mind. When talking to Mike of Zenclosures(guy that made my box and he's GREAT guy like Scott is by the way), he said I could just use silicone to seal the new posts. I've seen people here talk about caulking so which is better? Or is silicone adequate? Enquiring minds want to know????????????????

Hey guys, can someone with knowledge I don't have give me a hand PLEASE! I'll be real grateful! I bought my 2 10" FI D2 Q's for this box for my 350Z which has a advertised inside dimensions that produce .70cuft per chamber. Scott's advertised cuft spec for these subs is .20 -.60cuft. So I'm about .10cuft over. First a couple of questions. (getting old sucks....memory shot! LOL!) #1. I think Scott said he wanted the .20 - .60cuft space for the box PRE sub installation???? So in other words don't use the sub displacement itself in the final cuft #. The box without the sub should be .20 -.60cuft. Does that sound right? #2. Obvisously I want the BEST possible performance from these subs, so I'm thinking of adding a Block inside in the back of the box to take up .10cuft of space to get the optimum space. Will this be OK? (PS decimal in wrong place in pic) Like I said, I'm hoping just putting a 9.75" X 4" X 5" block screwed to the back will be good enough fix ?????? (dimensions = 195cu/in", a little more than .10cuft which = 172.8cu/in") What do you guys think??????? #3. Here are the sub box inside dimensions. The width of each chamber is 9.750" wide which is the dimension you can't see in the picture. How do you figure out cuft with dimensions like these?????????? Anyone know?????? Just want to double check the advertised specs! (Please excuse my chicken scratchin photoshop writing guys) And again from this HUMBLE noob......thank in advance for the help!

Yeah your right, I just tend to WAY over analyze things in order to get it right the first time around! Thanks bro!

OH MY GOD! MORE MATH! I QUIT! ROFLMAO!! Just kidding......I can think my way into procrastination because of stupid perfectionism till the cows come home! I'm just droppin them in and away we go!!!!!! I like the dowel bracing mod idea tho! Thanks King Cumonawanalaya! j/king! LOL! Thank you HawaiianBassHead!

WOW! Great info Scott! So you couldn't see the pics with the dimensions????? Does that calc work even if it is a one sided trapezoid. Meaning the bottom is long and flat end to end and the top is 6.25 flat parallel to the bottom then slopes down a length of 9.75 to a back wall of 4". If I use your calc and don't use the 9.75" slope or back wall 4" spec. ,just the sub side face height 10.5" X the 9.75" width X 11.125"(the 16" bottom + the parallel 6.25 top divided by 2) then divide everything by 1728 = .66cuft. for chamber cuft. Does this sound right! Anyone hatin me yet! LOL! Enquiring minds want to know! I'm just learning here guys! By the wayTHANK YOU

I got 8 gauge to fit the sub terminals no problem! On my 10"Q's! I'm running all 8 gauge!

Well....this box isn't quite a triangular shape or rectangular either. If you split the 2 sections ......nahhhhhhh! This is a tough one for this country bumpkin! Thanks for the links tho...bro!

Thanks guys! Highly appreciated! Like I said my memory is Shot! I could of sworn Scott said .20 - .60cuft space for the box PRE sub installation. If you guys are right tho, I can just plop them in and go. Does anyone know how to make sure the dimensions on this box = .70. I can do 12 X12 X 12=1cuft.......but those multiple dimensions.........yikes!

I hope you guys know I'm just yankin his chain!!! LOL! Except I do think the contest part would be cool tho!

Hey Scott, This is Glenn from Fontucky! If I'm going to do this I want to see what the T shirt looks like! Post a pic up there buddy! It better be hip and not just a plain "fruit o the loom" with 2 bold "FI" letters on it. In fact you should have a contest on who could come up with the best designed T-Shirt for your company and have everyone vote on which one they like the most! That could be fun!

Just wanted to say thanks to all that helped me out in the thread! I appreciate it guys!!!!!

This is my basic wiring diagram for my pair of D2 10" Q's. I have a dual chamber box w/t .60 cuft in each chamber. Since the terminals are on the left and right side of the subs and I have to connect the subs in both chambers (run wires thru commom middle wall and seal with silicone).............I was wondering is it OK to let the wires just hang free in the box or maybe secure them so they don't just flop around???? I noticed there are little tabs on the baskets, both on the top and bottom. Would it be alright to zip strip the +/- DVC connecting wire that will go over the top of the subs basket to that tab? Or should I just let it free hang?????? Just want to do it right the first time guys!

Probably won't use the polyfill then as my box is .70cuft per chamber and the 10" Q's need for .20 to .60 cuft space per sub. I talked with Scott and he said that he likes .50 to .60 BEFORE the sub is in or in other words without the subs volume included. So I'm going to makes a .10-.15cuft block and mount it it at the back of the box since it is fairly deep. So I guess there is no need for poly here LOL!

The whole idea that I was trying to convey was that, IF the wires flopped around is it better to secure them so they don't come loose. I will probably loosely zip strip the wire that goes between the +/- to that tab on top, as long as it doesn't hopefully get too hot????? Anyone? But yeah, now I will use the 2 terminal cups on each side and just wire both up to my KX2500.1 amp. Douh! I keep hearing or seeing people mention polyfill......I haven't looked it up, does someone want to enlighten me as to what it does for a sealed box setup. Or maybe point me to a weblink???? I'd be very appreciative!!!!!