Big E

What is the advantage with using overkill instead of another layer of damplifier?

What kind of vehicle? Tuning on the ported box? Size of the ported and sealed enclosures? We can't say for sure, but these questions would help give a better estimate.

http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-22D 4 gauge or 1/0 gauge in, 4 gauge or 8 gauge out.

What ohms are your subwoofers? I think the wiring is just messed up. I don't know how you can wire 2 subs to 1 or 1/4 ohm. I think you have it wired to 4ohms. IIRC the DP's have quad 1 ohm coils...meaning he can wire down to .25, 1, or 4 ohms

Only dual slugs?

If using one of those head units you mentioned ///M5, would he also be required to get an amp that has built-in crossover controls, or would that all be taken care of by the head unit? And if he'd still need the crossover controls on the amp, what would be the benefit with going with one of those head units over a cheaper one?

After looking around a bit, and reading up on them...I've decided to go against the Polk MOMOs. I'm now looking at a SAX 100.4, 2x Mach5 MLi-65 and 2x Vifa tweeters or 2x Seas tweeters. Anybody have experience with either of these tweeters? I do have one question -- I like the looks of these tweeters over the other two, and the specs are all pretty comparable, but I can't figure out for the life of me how I would secure those in my car. Does it come with mounting hardware that mounts behind the door panel or how does that work?

As the topic says. Does anybody have first experience with these 6.5" component sets? How do they sound? Are the highs edgy? Is the midbass there? With my accommodation price...they're definitely one of my first picks. Any other recommendations around the, oh let's say, $130 price range? For power I'm looking at around 100 watts RMS...most likely a SAX 100.2 (or SAE 50.4 bridged? ). I'm not sure I can justify the extra costs of going active; I'm not terribly picky about the lack of adjustability.

Any recommendation around $130? I don't mind expanding my budget...but obviously looking to stay low.

1. How old are you? 18 2. When did you get into car audio? 13 3. How did you first get into car audio? Got a job and bought all my own equipment 4. Whats your favorite color? Burnt Orange 5. Male or female? Male 6. Your first Car? My parents bought me a 1998 chevy lumina...MY first car is my 1999 Chevy Blazer ZR2 8. How did you find out about this site? Through a friend (a lurker) 9. What was your first system? Alpine H.U., Kicker coax's, 2 MTX 12" 4500s in prefab MTX box, Bazooka 500W amp 11. Were do you live? Hudsonville, Michigan 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand? I'm impartial for the most part, but I can't complain about SSA or Sundown 15. Who is our hero in the car audio industry? I'd say Jacob at Sundown, and Mark and Aaron here at SSA for getting these great companies going! 16. Whats your dream system? haven't put much thought in it 17. Whats your dream car? '69 Chevy Chevelle with a 454/502 18. Whats the fastest car you have driven/ridden in? 71 Vette with a 454 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products? Nowadays? The internet 20. What is your job? Full time student & Product Flow Team (warehouse) at Circuit City 21. Whats your favorite saying? "F*** it" 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars? Chevrolet 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's? impartial 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased? Car audio related? My ICON! 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA? DevilDriver, ramos, dave Edwards, JimJ, ///M5, Sundownz, Acidburn, mrgowoski, and quite a few others are all very knowledgeable 32. What is your personal best on the TL? and with what equipment? haven't been metered 33. SQ or SPL? why? SQ...I like to listen to my music

Throw in at least another 130 bucks for 1 roll of RAAMmat...

With 2 million dollars, you could do a whole bunch of stuff. Louder/lower depends on application...if you build the proper box they can both get equally low or equally loud. Also, the loud is going to depend on if you're powering them properly -- do you have an amp already?

The 305 is all-show no-go as far as V8's are concerned...especially in a car that big. They sound purrrrty though

No bracing besides the port? Quality of the box looks good...but might need a bit more bracing with the sub and power you're going to be throwing at it.

Have a way to sort by sub size

Just got back from their concert at my college (Grand Valley State University)....the best show I've ever been to in my life! My ears are still ringing...we were literally 5 feet from the band. I got a few good pics. I'll post up in a little bit. I met the band afterwards; they're cool guys; down to earth and not full of themselves. They were more than happy to sign posters (that they gave out free before the show). I was just wondering if anybody else has heard of them...they're a local band that's been gaining popularity pretty quickly. If you haven't heard of them, I suggest taking a listen to them (www.myspace.com/popevil).

Funny, I thought the M stood for Memphis Nice find there...how much did it cost ya?

Well we have one for XBOX Live, why not for those of us with PS3's? Mine is: BigEDawg I reallly only play call of duty 4 online at the moment.

OK 2 questions. I got the kicker distro block so theres no fuse in there. and second i am just grounding everything to the chassis im not using a ground distroblock I fail to see a question made in either of those statements. I would use that unfused distro block for the grounds, and buy a fused distro block for the power. Grounding back to the battery is more efficient than grounding to the chassis.

Sorry, I should've noted the sarcasm in my post:P

I still wonder that.

Put 100w into the crossover, and each component gets 100w. Put 200w into the crossover, and each component gets 200w.

You could always go with the Sundown SAE-1000D. I've had mine for a while and love it. Very small footprint for an amp of its power rating.

It's the first time I've gone in a ditch...third year driving in the winter. Someone snowblowed their driveway into the road, and I hit that patch, and my car started pulling towards the ditch. Naturally, I tapped the brakes to slow down, but it just pulled me down further towards the ditch and I ended up driving right into it.

I'll start as #1... I was coming back from my 6-9PM class when my brakes deciding to initiate their LOCKING feature... About 5 seconds later after vigorous brake pumping, to no avail, I end up at ~30 degree angle in the ditch. Thankfully, I slowly slid into the ditch and didn't go head first, so it wasn't a violent stop, and there was no damage to the car (that I can tell right now...it drove fine). I got stuck with a $75 towing charge which, all things considered, I'm not complaining about. It does hurt the ego a bit though :\ No pics, as I wasn't expecting this to happen so the camera wasn't handy.