Big E

No pix but I got the front seating area fully deadened and I have both the walls deadened. I've still got over a full roll left, and I'm down to about 1/3 of a roll right now. It seems that I've only used ~40 sq.ft right now. I've got a full layer over half the floor and a full layer on each side of the wall. Does this seem normal or should I probably have another layer on the floors?

Alright, I snapped some pics of the ICON and the headunit. I haven't gotten too much in the way of progress of sound deadening as I'm caught at yet another snag. One of the torx bolts for the seat belt on the driver side was already stripped...and I found a LOC hanging off one of the rear speakers as well as the RCAs and a REM wire... ICON Alpine CDA-9811, currently in my beater while the ZR2 is sidelined And the problems/progress thus far: My buddy's bringing over a pair of huge vice grips which should be enough to get the torx bit out. If not, I'll drill it out and tap a new hole. I'll be working all through the night and morning trying to get this done before my dad gets back home from Ohio.

Sounds like one 12" ported should suit you nicely. You'll be able to keep quite a bit of room and it'll still shine in output (assuming correct box size). As for the spare problem...I hung it out back

Do we get one entry for each person we refer?

Fi BTL, Sundown Nightshade, and Mach5 SPL all can take a good beatin'.

Sound deadening starts tomorrow, but I got a call from the vet with my dog's blood work-up and it's not good He has to be put down tomorrow so I don't know how far I'm going to get.

Are you putting the PowerMaster in your trunk, or just replacing the stocker. The only reason you would run a ground from your battery to your trunk is if you're adding a second battery.

Still awaiting pics...

General rule of thumb is that you only need half the port area if you use aero ports.

This isn't CA.com...please keep your useless spam there.

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to. I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some. Your tweeter isn't going to see any more power by having its own channel. Crossovers split the frequency; not the power. If i have one side running off 100 watts passive (Ch 1), the tweeter itself is not getting a full 100 watts. It would be if it had its own channel No, you don't understand. The tweeter will NOT see any more power by having its own channel. The power is NOT split by the crossover.

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to. I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some. Your tweeter isn't going to see any more power by having its own channel. Crossovers split the frequency; not the power.

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to.

Why would you bridge the channels? Just use channels one and two and ignore three and four. You don't need more than 100 watts per side. Unless you mean you want to run actively, with one speaker on each channel. If that's the case, then you put your tweeters on channels one and two, and put your mids on three and four. As far as the RCAs, I'm not sure; I've never worked with a 4 channel amp.

College (D2): Grand Valley State University College Football (D1): Univ. of Michigan College Basketball (D1): Univ. of North Carolina NBA: Detroit Pistons NFL: Chicago Bears NHL: Detroit Red Wings MLB: Detroit Tigers and Chicago Cubs

mostly rap & r&b Well you're definitely looking for a ported box then. The SSDs should do just fine for ya.

I'd go with whichever you can find cheaper. I have ZERO complaints about my 15" Icon

Could be quite a few things...bad serpentine belt, loose pulley...etc etc. Vid of sound and better description of the sound would help.

Why do you say that? They both have the same power handling, and with 750 watts each the 15" will move just fine. Not to mention he'd have more surface area with the 15s.

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/amplifiers/TC3001.cfm prices: http://catalog.ebay.com/MTX-TC3001-Car-Aud...2464633QQ_tabZ2

It doesn't keep road noise OUT either. Sound deadening kills the rattles. Open cell fabrics (Ensolite, Overkill, etc) are what kill airborne sounds.

If you haven't realized by now, just about everything is quite a bit cheaper on the internet. You don't have to deal with all the middlemen which is why it's so much cheaper. When you buy locally, they have to pay all the people that work for them, on top of the cost of the bumper and the shipping for the bumper, so they need to mark it up (sometimes as high as 50%). If you're getting around the same price quotes from two different companies, then I would say $275 is right around the actual cost of the bumper when you cut out the middleman.

DB-r uses all original parts...so the refurb will have the exact same parts as a regular 3000D

Circuit City - Home Entertainment Sales

Why you don't need a capacitor. That thread helped explain a lot to me. It's a LONG read but it's WELL worth it.