Big E

Lookin' good

If you want noise, 1 watt. Remember, below RMS does NOT damage the woofer AT ALL; clipping and distortion DOES. Also, what the HELL is with the 2 SSD's sealed and 2 BL's ported?!?!? Do NOT mix subwoofers AND box designs...you're going to get all kinds of cancellation.

Pics you bastard

Why not just make a trim panel to hide the rest of the space, or perhaps make an amp rack to fill in the rest of the space? I definitely wouldn't recommend mixing the two different size subwoofers in there, though. What car is this going in? I can't think of too many cars with trunks big enough to fit 2 15's and still be able to have 16+" of usable space left on the sides...

Do you feel confident running the 3000D at .5 ohms (not covered under warranty)? If not, get the dual 1's, wire them in series, then in parallel, or vice versa, to yield a one ohm load.

Trust me, I have more subs then I have a place to use them. Treo == iPhone predecessor != sub On an AUDIO forum, Treo = Treo Engineering = http://www.treoonline.com/ = subs

Don't do something stupid like buying a new amp before you build a ported box. A new box can make a tremendous difference. As for specs on the box, use what kicker recommends. Tuning tends to be around 32hz for daily.

Half of the topics in this section are about working out.........................

I'm lookin' at buying this 1988 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350. It has a 4 barrel Holley carb swap as well as a shift kit in the transmission, along with chrome valve covers and other misc. visual stuff under the hood. One of the main problems with it is that the speedometer is off. Way off. In fact, it's around 20 mph too fast. I'm thinking whoever installed the shift kit might have broken some teeth on the speedo gear. I was wondering if any of you have had a similar problem with the speedo being off, or know of anything else that may be wrong with it.

I think they need to use a different font for the $185 Also, anybody have any thoughts on this one? I might be looking to get it...not sure what to look for in an oscope as well, though. Edit: This was a double post.

How about this one? http://www.apogeekits.com/oscilloscope_hps40.htm

If you have access to an OScope, completely ignore anything you heard about using a DMM to set the gains. An OScope is infinitely better for setting gains...just don't bother with using a DMM when you have an OScope.

I've never heard of "too much deadening".

Thanks I decided against the car...turns out it's been wrecked twice and somehow it has only had 4k miles put on it since 1997, in which time it travelled from California to Texas to Michigan...thank you CarFax

Pricing?

Best bang-for-the-buck = Mach 5, hands down.

What you're going through is old fashioned psychoacoustics...you're telling yourself there's a problem when there isn't one. But it's your money. Don't be surprised if there isn't a huge difference when you change amplifiers though You said I wont notice a difference in 400 more watts.. I dont understand why are you saying that? Let's compare 0 watt and 400 watts.. That is a big difference right? And I dont see any different from that for 800 to 1200 watts? That's got to be one of the worst comparison's I've ever seen in my life. The general rule of thumb is that you gain an audible difference (about a 3 db gain that is) every time you double the power. Going from 0 to 400 is infinitely bigger, while going from 800 to 1200 isn't even double. If you're chasing tenths on a meter, then absolutely put the extra power to it, otherwise I doubt you'll notice an audible difference.

They're called T/S Parameters...a quick search would've given you all the info you need. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...p?showtopic=141

I love mine! It stays quite cool even after usage, too. I'll try and write up a review soon, but these 6 days/week working are killing me...

I'd try the outside...when do you ever see the wire inside the terminal anyway? You're making it harder on yourself by trimming the inside. becasue there wont be stubs of wires all along the part that is outside the terminal Hence why you TRIM THE OUTSIDE off (gets rid of the stubs OUTSIDE)...

I'd try the outside...when do you ever see the wire inside the terminal anyway? You're making it harder on yourself by trimming the inside.

Just wire them all in parallel with 1/0 and you'll be fine Alternatively, you could run Buss bars over the terminals, works the same way.

It was 3k RMS Here: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...st&p=229432