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1.Subwoofer Enclosure Specification Questions & Requests Most manufacturers do list the optimal enclosure specifications on their respective websites, but sometimes you do want to know what other users of the subwoofers have done. To help get the information you desire when wondering this type of question, please include the following information. a.Subwoofers in question, number of subwoofers & subwoofer size b.Amplifier being used, specifically the model number. c.Fabrication skill level d.Preferred material to be used (i.e. MDF, fibreglass, etc) e.Vehicle which the subwoofers will be used in f.Other products you have heard, but have not owned that you enjoyed & their install particulars. g.Musical preferences h.System goals i.Previous subwoofers you have used, and their installation particulars j.List any research you have previously done a. 2 18" Fi BTL N2s fully loaded b. 2 hifonics brz2400.1 amps c. 8. i can build boxes... just not design them... d. MDF e. 91 civic hatch f. ?? who cares... g. rap h. 150+db on daily music i. again who cares... 2 12" legacys on a 2400w max legacy amp... sounded like shit compared to my new system.. j. research doesnt really help when their is no topics on a 91 civic hatch wall build...you even said you cant compare my car to other cars so why research on someone elses build when its not gonna help mine... so how does this info honestly help ??

not to bad... would i need to come to you or could you come here lol gas is cheap, lol come up here. unless you got a shop. only like 20 bucks worth of gas honestly. i got a shop we can do the work at... and i would come up there but i know its gonna take multiple trips to get it finished... i know its not gonna take 1 day to finish it all lol...

im honestly not good with geometry so thats why i asked....duh.. What are you good at? And I never told you to do the geometry, but perhaps to describe your challenge so we could help. I have an idea. Why don't you NOT post until you read the threads in my link and think very thoroughly about what you are trying to ask. Then write your post. Re-read it 3+ times, make sure its clear, ask your friends to read it and see if they understand every detail and THEN press "Add Reply". I am sure your answers will come easy then. im just gonna ignore you... your annoying lol

not to bad... would i need to come to you or could you come here lol

im disrespectful ?? LOL i ask some questions and you make a dick post... i never once called you names... and ya im not getting help huh thats why everyone else in this topic is trying to help me LOL....like i said if you dont have anything good to post just dont post .... its really not that hard..

im honestly not good with geometry so thats why i asked....duh..

haha ya i was gonna ask if you could help but you live kinda far away so i dont know how that would work where around KC do you live? i live in a small town about an hour east of KC... knob noster.

And rude too, pretty damn disrespectful to not follow the rules you agreed to when you joined the site. And of course, in those rules all of the information needed is defined. *if you are lazy, turn on sigs, there are links in mine lol i bet most of the people that joined this site didnt read the rules... like really grow up LOL if you needed/wanted info just ask for it... dont have to be a dick about it...

haha ya i was gonna ask if you could help but you live kinda far away so i dont know how that would work

lol ya i saw that a while ago... no way i could fit 2 21s though... so im happy with the 18s lol

lol thanks... actually the car stills moves pretty good after putting the subs in.... i can already do a hairtrick... i just think with a bigger box/bigger ports... it will do a even better hairtrick lol Yea i can imagine even with the extra weight that the car can still fly, bet the brakes were a pain the first time after the subs went in!! I know they were in my car, had an Integra with H22, with 2 12" SI Mags and Hifonics amp, all fiberglassed in hatch area, first time i installed everything and went cruising around, the brakes felt like they went out on me!!! Well any ways back to original topic!! As for measuring the space, if you are planning on going around all the nooks and crannies, you are going to need to dissect each section into its own portion. Well take alot of time and some pretty good math, but it is one of the best methods(that i am aware of) to measure everything. If you were to just stay inside the struts though you should be able to make a good rectangle area out of that and probably have enough space. But there will be no set in stone solution for your problem, it may require a rebuild or 2 if the first ones dont pan out to exactly what you want. So just be aware of that. My opinion would be the try and keep the box inside the struts and just put a sealing wall at the front baffle to reduce the cabin space and reduce the need for all the extra measuring, but that is just me, and what i would most likely do. Best of luck man, would love to see if once finished!! Keep me updated, please. haha ya the brakes felt the same with me... took me a lil while to get used to... definetly can tell the car has more weight to... takes more gas to get up a hill now... and with having 8:1 compression its soooo slow til the turbo kicks in lol...nice on having a h22 in a intergra... i was thinking about putting a h22 in my hatch... but after all the money and time it would of taken i just decided to rebuild my motor and turbo it... way more hp in the end lol... and ya that does sound like the best solution to keep it in between the struts... ill measure and see what how much room i have to play with... ill definetly keep you updated thanks for the help i was thinking if i cant build a good wall with 2 18s i wanna switch to 4 12s or 4 15s... but i just love saying i have 18s in my car lol...

well honestly its probably gonna sound the same if the port is on the bottom or the top... and i dont care how knowledgeable he is... i know their is other people on this site that is just as or smarter than him so i really dont need him... and how do i measure the width when its gonna be different all through out the car ??

lol thanks... actually the car stills moves pretty good after putting the subs in.... i can already do a hairtrick... i just think with a bigger box/bigger ports... it will do a even better hairtrick lol

funny how immature people can be... and i need to know what kind of detials you need... you act like i should know everything about car audio... sorry im not a guru like most of the people on here... thats why im asking questions... to learn...

Now I see why you are opposed to "bashing" in threads as you are too lazy to bother to make a good one or search yourself. Geometry hasn't changed for years. Of course curves can mean many things so its pretty hard to respond. Tons of tricks, but some specifics would help. Try it both ways. Best way to really determine. If you want to know more of why, perhaps explain what you want to achieve, what you have for space, where it goes, etc. etc etc. As for its own chamber. Pros and cons. Again, don't know which would apply to you, but if I have to make an assumption on what you've given us its that you can't do geometry very well so with what you've given us I'd say put them in the same chamber. if your gonna be a douche just dont post on my threads...k...thx... and try it both ways ?? what do you mean by both ways....port on bottom and then try it on top ?? im not gonna build a box... then rebuild it just to find out it sounds the same.... i want to hit atleast 150db.....how do i measure the space i have ?? as you can tell the top of the car is wider than the bottom cause of the struts...

mainly for demo's/hairtricks...its going in my daily driver so i just want something loud and low... plan to tune to 28-30hz... not my car... but im talking about going around the rear struts...

if you like the LOWS go with 30hz

i cant lower the front as i said a few posts back. bad shocks dont let your front or rear squat... the springs do. shocks just keep the tires planted on the road when hitting a bump and absorbing shock. gotcha... maybe get a set of coilovers for the back and raise it ?? or do you like it the way it is.

ya actually when i got my mechman alternator it had 2 studs... one for a line from the alt to the pos. terminal.... and one for a line from the alt to the neg. terminal on the battery....

ya anything over 1500w i would use 1/0 gauge wire...

i would lower the front to match the rear... looks kinda funny sitting like that... like the rear shocks are bad lol

i agree... i got banned on smd's forum for "bashing" some guy cause his system was pathetic... i was stating my opinion and there butts got hurt... o well

Its only bashing when you read it with emotions ok well look at this whole topic... everyones post has emotion in it... thats why people are getting offended..

no reason to bash on accord just for stating his expierence though... you can try to correct him nicely... but no reason to be a bitch (no offense)... i thought this forum was for helping people... not bashing people...

8 gauge ftw ... lol 12 gauge will work just fine though..