djtomczak

Dubstep carries a wide range of frequencies, I have 37hz and can hit all dubstep fairly well. UKF is different from normal dub though, it has more wobbles and electronic stuff.

Then yes, just not in my car. I hate loud beat bass like that unless it's just with a normal stereo or headphones. UKF dubstep is my favorite type of electronic music.

Define trance

In my Taurus, windows down made it sound twice as loud, but not in my escape windows/doors do nothing to change the sound.

Hip-hop/R&B is my main music, but I have everything on my 160gb ipod.

First one I ordered was Manufacture refurbished off of ebay- DOA. Sent it straight to Soundstream and they traded me amps no questions asked! They have some good weight to them and look very solid.

Faced my subs back seat down, back seat up, and forward not sealed. Not sealing it seemed to be no effect for me, proved to be louder than facing back. Trunk rattle was equally as loud and destructive to the car either way

I could max the gain out on my Profile amp with no clipping or distortion Just depends on the input voltage. Check out a soundstream Rub1.1600 Put one in a friends car. 170$ on ebay.

Well I've decided on getting an XS D3400 for a second battery in the back of my escape. I currently have 4 gauge going back there, would that be enough or should I go for 0 gauge? I could always upgrade the wire down the road if I have to, but for now I'm only running 1500 watts.

Found them and they look pretty good compared to my sa12s. Reading up on them they seem to hit the low lows very well. How would they compare to my sa12s? 35hz 1.75 cubes and 750rms each. And are they made in USA?

So what your saying is you want the box to sit on top of the seat in the back of a extended cab truck? Why not just face sub woofer over the center console and face the port up?

Just to be different.... Crescendo!! But really I'd go for the sundown

Had the same noise on my SA12s, it was only one of them, and only happened at high volume levels. Tinsels were tight so it wasn't that. Turned the gain down a bit and it solved the problem. Haven't heard the noise since

I'm seeing similar wattage recommendations for a few batteries, I wanted to know which one is the best for me as a second battery. Have a red top under the hood and plan to throw a relay between the two batteries. Right now I have 1500W, but plan to upgrade to ~2500 in the future. Thanks!

I see people saying their rms "clamped" all the time, I'm curious to know what my Memphis is actually putting out. I have an amp probe and a dmm. How would I go about clamping my amp to see the power it is putting out?

Monkey-see Monkey-Do Happens a lot in this hobby. I could go on a pretty long rant about all of the useless or senseless things people do in this hobby. In all honesty, it doesn't really matter. Even if the amp is over rated by 25% you're not going to hear a difference. As long as you're not running one of those extremely low end amps which rate everything at PMPO or ILS, generally real power output is going to be close enough to rated to not make an audible difference. It's often nice to know just from a manufacturer reputability aspect.....sure, I'll put a little more faith into the general build/design quality and respect for a company if their 500w amp really outputs 500w. But if it only does 400w, you're not going to hear a difference. Unless you are chasing #'s on a meter, it really doesn't make that big of a difference. But to actually measure the true output of an amplifier to the level of detail and accuracy required to compare it to the manufacturer's rated power is generally going to require a professional level measurement setup. A "clamp test" will do nothing of the sort. True^

The first question is why you would want to "clamp" your amp? "Clamping" an amp in the manor it is most commonly performed provides little relevant or useful information. The reason the measurements aren't accurate are many....for one, you don't know the accuracy of the measuring equipment. Second, measuring power into a reactive load (i.e. your subwoofer) is not a simple Volts x Amps calculation. Third, you are not measuring distortion (even with an o-scope you are not measuring distortion, only when the wave begins to clip). That's just to name a few. So all in all, the results of your measurement will be virtually useless and it will not tell you how much power your amplifier is "really" outputting. About the only way to do that reliably is with a professional level bench test measurement system, which isn't cheap. Why do people do it if it doesn't really show any useful information? I don't need an exact number I just want a ball park to see if it's putting out what it's claiming.

I've always adjusted by ear, tried Dmm and turned out to be clipping still. I'm lucky, Two of the top twelve retailers by mobile electronics magazine are in my area!

My local shop believes in adjusting by ear, I watched them do it today and he did a pretty good job!

Will do! Don't have free time until Thursday though. I'll see about a video and pictures of my new install as well.

It's only meant to charge the battery! There's a 16v start switch on the charger but I'm not going to send 16v to my new truck. Truck started I can hold 14.2

Well 12.5 is what my charger can keep pretty solid. No idea what my amp was rated at, It's pretty old.

So multiply the Amps going through the positive to the subwoofers by the AC volts going to the subwoofer?