cloud77

15" Q driver in a sealed box. Feel its personality, then play with ported. Then maybe buy another. Cut sheets for the Q 15 is 17" high on the sealed and ported. This should tickle your addiction

Took almost 4 weeks to receive CA glue and activator from Fi..

Make a video of that 3 ohm coil @120V, then recone.

Fi BL offers coils for daily driving or SPL, both are aluminum I would imagine because of the subs power handling...I don't think they offer the 4" coil on BL anymore it was kind of a guuinea pig for the sp4 I believe...

This sucks man hopefully it shows up at your door step sooner than you are starting to think it will.

Ok so I've been trying to troubleshoot alternator whine through my 4 channel since I've installed it. Let me first list my equipment. Car: 2004 Grand Prix GT no monsoon system, no onstar Headunit: JVC KD-720 (old, bought it back in 2007 or something) U-35 cable converting cd changer to AUX EXT IN is in use. Wired this to cars harness myself as I did not need the expensive PAC harness, as I didnt care if I maintained onboard date/time display or door chimes. 4 channel amp: SSL F400, poopy I know, but this is my first time hooking up a 4 channel so babysteps 6x9s: Infinity Reference 691.3 3-way, Using a pair of stinger bass blockers on them to just get use of frequencies 150 Hz+ Tweeters: straight from china, 2 pairs mounted up front on side of middle dash Subwoofer: Fi Q pre-2009 driver with post 2009 recone in a sealed enclosure to spec<3 Sub Amp: mmats d300Hc Rear Battery: Kinetik Hc1800 with newer terminals, stacking the ground for the 4 channel and mmats on the - Front battery: Duralast platinum, big 3 done as follows: Front battery + to rear battery +, front battery + to alternator + fused, Front battery - to engine ground(which I dont know is a clean ground its on a long screw that controls some sort of evap fluid, a mechanic told me this goes right to my engine block but he didnt know the ins and out of purpose), Front battery - to rear battery -. front battery - to another ground on strut. Wiring from + to +, and - to - is 1/0 Bullz Car audio. Everything under the hood except for that is KNU or Monster Kable 0. THERE IS NO POWER WIRE RAN NEXT TO SIGNAL WIRES. Ok lets get down to it. I get alternator noise, increasing when I touch gas pedal. Recently I've been trying to troubleshoot it without having to use gay ass ground loop isolation tools. LAtely I've been messing with my headunit wiring, because I've determined its not the amp, its the source or ground to the source, or its my wiring all together. So I grounded all 3 sets of my RCAs, wrapped a stripped wire around all 3 pinned down by surrounding screws. I grounded my headunit to the frame but came all the way over to driver side door to do so, no result, then grounded to rear battery, no result. When I installed I ran a wire from the right pass side fuse box to power on my headunit because there was a lack of ignition wire. So now I took that out and ran it back to the + of my battery to see if it was a powerline problem. no result. My remote wire hook up: Now I'm questioning myself on this: Remote wire for headunit is split to the switch for my bass spliced before the headunit to make another run for a switch for my 4 channel. My volt meter receives power from the switch for the sub. I don't know if this is right, but I don't see how it could be the cause for my problems. Maybe a relay could be used? I dunno. But I figured I'd mention that. At first I thought it was my rear battery being grounded to strut and not to the negative of the front battery, so I made that run and...no result. I'm about to buy a new harness and do all the wiring to the headunit over again, as I didn't cap the connections, I used elect tape. but as if right now, I still have the headunit grounded to the left driver side frame screw, and power is going to rear battery, when I made that adjust, it seemed like things got worse. So maybe this tells me its my big 3 connection all along? I dont know I want to rip my own face off thinking about this sometimes... If there's anything you see or questions to be asked about the hook up please...lets talk about it. Because I'm in despair..I'm lonely. I'm actually glad I didnt spend a lot of money on a good 4 chan amp if I'm having this problem anyway..I get so frustrated it makes me just want to rip everything out that has to do with the 4 channel and just run off my shitty sound ordnance p52 getting power off headunit. sigh...HELP

you only need 1 woofer, if you power it correctly it will sound better than your buddy's 2 jl W7s on 1000 watts. lol

Yes the Hifonics stuff is pretty good entry level stuff. I agree with the Fi Q or SSA Icon suggestions a Single 15 would probably fit your goals the best. I would also suggest you making your own box with a design from one of the many designers out there. This will save you a lot of money and give you some good experience. All you really need is a circular saw and a jig saw to make a simple box. agree 100%. Making a sealed box is not hard. then you can get addicted like the rest of us infinity and beyond.

A brutus is a fine amp, but you see them everywhere. If you plan on running 1 ohm or even if you think you will do it in the future, you might as well wire 1/0 or 0 gauge with a battery in the trunk, big 3 exc. so its not killing your cars electrical. I'm not a fan of running 1 ohm for daily driving expecially a 30-45 min drive to work. Try to find a 2 ohm stable amp that can put out the same power and not draw as much current. ex. Mmats d300hc

I love my Fi Q in sealed application. It provides great SQ, will express good bass on all types of music and gets loud when you want to show off. My next subwoofer will come from SSA, however, because Fi's customer service is falling off. Try the Icon series from SSA. It will take a little more power, comparable series to the Fi Q.

agreed. Love my Q in my sealed, it shines. Love my friend's BL ported to specs on 2k..

I was gonna rock one of these off ebay. Trying to get my hands on a motor of each proto

is that the dvc or single 4 ohm?

A BL takes a 4" coil..weird. I'm interested, but since you've been having trouble getting the recone..

thanks dude.

Ok so this is the first time I'm amping some mids/highs in my car using a 4 channel amplifier. I have 2 infinity reference 6x9s by an SSL F400. I bought one of those cheap amp hookup kits from walmart just to fill in the gap for wiring I didnt have. (8gauge power and rcas) I got really bad engine noise at first through the 6x9s. I troubleshoot and made a new ground for the headunit to the chastity of the car, also made a new ground for the amp to go to the same ground my battery in the trunk is grounded to. (strut ground) the engine noise was reduced but is still present. everything sounds good, but there is still some audible distortion. I have a pair of stinger bass blockers on these 6x9s supposed to block 0-300 hz @ 4 ohm, but I'm pretty sure 6x9s are 2 ohm. (it never said on the box but from what i Looked up they seem to be 2 ohm, and ohmage meter doesnt seem to want to cooperate) I have an hc1800 in the trunk strut ground with 0 gauge. up front theres an duralast platinum with big 3 upgrade, fuse block, engine ground, alt power, strut ground, all 1/0 and 0. Bass: powering an Fi Q with a mmats d300hc. door speakers are not amped therefor no alt wind is audible through them. does the RCAS used in the application make a difference? ex. using a 20$pair of stinger RCAS compared to these cheap walmart scosche stuff..I bought a new pair even though I've established that it wasnt the rcas to make the noise, isnt headunit, and isnt amp ground, but it still may be the config I have my grounds..leave to open conversation for troubleshoot. I also just figured out that the noise gets worse when I play through my auxillary cord. Well its not an auxillary its a cord adapter that uses ext in in replace of the cd changer I believe. Headunit is an older JVC KD-720. Starting to think that its the problem, but then again I'm thinking grabbing power from the back battery for the 4 channel instead of running power from the front battery is the problem? Just bought some 1/0 and going to ground the back battery to the front battery - . good idea or worthless?

You guys can make one of these still, correct? I figured the coil length may be different than the new recones. Just as much $$ as the n2 n3 recones? Or cheaper=)

Which companies make/assemble their audio equipment in asia? Tc? Inifinity? Polk? I figured people on here would know more of the truth because they are in competition with these companies..then lets talk a bit more about tc sounds..their drivers are made in china as well?

TTc TC doesnt make new product? It seemed as if they were still working on webmastering their "new" webpage and tc parts express is probably a way for them to sell through the old stuff?

Even american built audio equipment uses some chinese parts though? Terminals, baskets exc.

Sound ordance p52 5 1/4s in doors inifinity reference 6x9s1622i in rear powered by a jensen 88 W 4 channel from 1992. mmats d300hc on an Fi Q in a sealed box @ 1ohm=) hc 1800 in rear, duralast platinum in front, big 3, all 2/0 and 0 except for power wire to amp 2004 grand prix gt what was just a 200$ setup turned into "&quot;SQL&quot;"

Been reading lots of sketchy reviews about these lately. American company takes over and then quality goes down? Heard from a mechanic that if you buy these from autozone they are significantly different than from manufacturer

Does the air moving around in a sealed box take any temperature change in relativity to the cooling of the coil? Since air is bouncing off the back baff does it actually cool the coil more effieciently than a ported enclosure?

I know RE made these with flatwound coils..are your recones for these copper? If all options, extra spiders, exc. How much can this sub be beefed to? 1200 rms? Compression plug option on these recones = ? Would you guys send shims?

I prefer vanilla folders, but it would be nice to have a re usable plastic shim of some sort with Fi logo on it. Oh yeah!