johnnylemoine

so its different than A/C voltage?? cause i know that amp draw drops as voltage increses with A/C voltage

2 18 BTLS fully loaded for sale dude. actually sale pending on one. PM me or AIM

they dont ship out CA glue. you'll have to go to a hobby shop or something to get some CA glue, or use some sort of epoxy.

i love that HU, although i am a lil biased. i dont think ill ever get rid of mine.

RE 36.1. last one in existance. Dave from RE said it does 1800rms at 1 ohm. never ran it lower. runs my XXX perfectly. also got an orion xtr pro 2400 that does about 2450 at 2 ohms. 2 ohm stable. thats a guestimate with a lil math and a volt meter, but A/C voltage i get coming out on a sine wave suggests it does about 2450.

yeah i just read up on the H701, looks like i would need the 250 dollar controller for it. o well.

stop being a pussy burg. will that H701 work with a 9835??

too little. i figured it would "chuff" or you would hear some port noise. but it didnt sound bad before. i think hes just gonna try out the old box and if he likes it he'll buy it, if not we'll make a new one. thanks for the input.

im would like to know if port are is THAT important. freind of mine has a BL 12, he wants to buy a box that another friend built, but the port area is under 12 sq inches per cube. the sub that was in the box before sounded pretty good. just wondering if the port are being a lil small is restricting output or SQ in any noticeable way. its off by like 8 sq inches. thanks

awesome. build that new box, dont forget bracing and /or double walling and let us know how it comes out.

for 2 way active front stage refer to the HU's i suggested in the other thread. probably about 200 bux for most of them on ebay.

yeah theres more pressure in a ported box. but its not so much how many watts u run to a sub that determines if its going to pop out the box. its the wood and bracing u use. and it wasnt my subs, it was a freinds subs, he had a USamps 3000 on em so it was about 1500 rms per sub. yes i am farmiliar with the fosgate sub. if i were u man, i would forget about prefab boxes and their designs and wutever anyone at a big autosound store tells you. local shops are good and learning from here is great. read this forum and learn wuts the best material/designs/installation techniques to use when building a sound system or box or wutever.

are you going 2 way active now? or passive?

ok i stand corrected on the port issue, it just looked closer in the pic. my bad. as far as the screws and glue goes, i wouldnt glue my subwoofer to my box. thats the screws i was referring too. and i use wood glue on all my boxes, but no matter how many screws or how much glue you use, its not going to stop the flexing and eventual cracking. im just saying that the pressure that was exerted on the MDF with bracing, still made it flex enuff to cause the screws that held the subs to crack. particle board under that pressure, im not sure if it would hold up. particle board just cracks so much easier than MDF. but wutever works for you, do it. box design it self looks good. hope it holds up for ya.

well im goin to sound redundant most likely but here goes the choices i know for 2 way active front stage. that would be sub, mid and high. technically 3 way but were talkin front stage. alpine: 9833 9835 9853 9855. they will do it no doubt. eclipse cd 5000 and cd7000 im pretty sure will do it. there are others but i couldnt tell you.

ok heres proof. that even MDF cant handle it. we built a box for 2 BL 15's tuned to 35 hz 7 cubes net out of 3/4 MDF usamps 3000 on em. with a 2x6 for bracing on the front baffle. box flexed so much it broke the screws that held the subs in and both subs fell out of the box. wutever u build BRACE THE SH!T OUT OF IT. top to bottom, left to right. and this guy has 2 BL 15's in a particle board box. but i guess only time will tell if MDF is superior or not.

dont know about the 3 way active HU's. all i know about is some 2 way HU's. but there are some ppl on here that can help you out.

ok, yeah if he made it an "L" shaped port then yeah, hed want to be the same distance off the wal as the width of the port. i was just speaking in general. if he had a box 30 inches deep and a port that need to be 22 inches long he wouldnt have to make it an L shape since the back wall wouldnt interfere with the port.

Did you even read your own thread? You used the wrong wood. That box doesn't have a chance. And jesus christ.. tell your friends to grow some balls. Its a truck. Its supposed to get fudgeed up. Wrong wood is debatable. As long as the cuts were good and it is secured at the joints correctly for a good seal, I highly doubt much difference can be heard between MDF and small particle board. At least it isn't ugly OSB or something. Someone said the opening for the port internally wasn't big enough. It looks to me that the opening is just as wide inside as the mouth on the outside. Is there a reason to have it wider than the mouth? Serious question. yes the end of the port is just as wide as the front but the inside piece goes too far in to the box. it is too close to the back wall of the box. he should have an L shaped port. im pretty sure youre suppoed to have about 4-6 inches of clearance fron the end of a port and the wall behind it. port looks like its 2- 3 inches wide but its only about an inch or so from the back wall of the box.

if your going to go active front stage im pretty sure its better to have xovers on the HU, plus you can change stuff up front easily instead of going to your amp and adjusting, then sittin in your seat and listening. also if your are doing active front stage you will need mid pre out and high pre out fron HU plus a sub pre out. all those HU's i listed have that capability. im not sure about that amp, though it might have everything u need. im sure M5 or neon could tell you that.

my alpine 9835 works great with a 2 way setup. that and the 9833 have the sam features, although the 9833 displays sucks. alpine 9853 and 9855 are in the same boat. 53 havin the crappy display and the 55 having the better. im not too sure about other brand HU's that have the xover setup you will need. you can find most of those on ebay for about 200 bucks.

you got it. ill post pics of both boxes. sealed box will probably not be painted or anything, routered edges at most. but the ported box will be glassed and painted. nothing too fancy, i wanted to try glassin myself, but i just dont have the motivation to finish the bondo. so someone is gonna finish that for me and paint it a nice silver, or grey metalic flake. something to match the grey interior. if i like the sealed box better, ill get it all smooth and paint it up then post pics. SQ system will consist of the XXX 18 sealed. vifa tweets if i can win them on ebay, if not, SEAS. right now i have eD 6000's midrange/midbass. i want AA mids though, hopefully they will come out soon. active front stage btw.

i have one lying around and was going for a SQ setup. i have someone doing some work on my ported box and i was gonna make a temp sealed box. anyone have the old specs and/or box recommendations for the 05 XXX 18??? thanks

nice,is that a sealed box?

thanks, i have a ported box similar to that and the XXX sounded real good in it. have you ever had your XXX in a sealed box? i dont think i have ever built a sealed box for any of my subs.