almond

take a pic of it's ass. lol i have a tc9 with q parts. it's so baddass. second sub i've had with fi soft parts. i have one more waiting though lol.

pm jacob and see if he has any b stocks on ebay or when he might have some.

try doin a flared slot port with a mass amount of port area. i'd say for 2 15's maybe 7 cubes total and about 150-200 sq inches of port flared tuned to 40 hz or so. it won't sound great on music, but if you play something with a higher bass line (think prodigy's smack my bitch up) you should be able to put up some decent numbers with music.

also look at jacobs b stock ads on ebay. you might be able to pick up quite a deal on there.

I know some one else like devildriver understands this better than i d, maybe they will chime in soon??

i'm not sure. i've never measured my RF. never had a need to. the cabin volume should also play a huge role in rf. for two cars where the distance from sub to mic may be the same, but cabin volume is different the rf should be different as well.

i was using an orion 3002 for my mids and highs and the rd 2200.1d. the way i have them mounted they went all the way across the trunk. now with the mmats and m1 it goes alittle over half way. so far i'm very pleased with both amps.

well here are some gut shots of my new mids and highs amp. this will be part of an active two way front stage.

no, but i read the same article. it was about a guy building a crx. the way he was doing it is measureing from the sub to the mic and had to make sure the back of the sub to the mic was 3x the distance. the distance from the sub to the mic is the one that you use for finding out you frequency of burping. however in a daily environment that gets thrown out the window because the cabin is going to have a huge difference in where that rf is. that math isn't pefect for this situation. i understand what you're saying, but your misaplying your logic to this scenerio. know what i mean??

i'm sure someone will chime in.

thank you. it's the only amp i've ever had with wood in it lol. someone want to comment on the quality??i boiught it used for a little over $100 shipped. sounds awsome

not only that but then they changed all the zip codes. lol ups was all spun out

lol that's funny as hell. hey can i get a team STFU shirt as well??

in a perfect scenerio that would work, more for a wall than anything else. but as far as daily drivers the acoustics of the vehicle are going to shift the rf.

well hey if you can get more than 100% efficiency out of an amp go for it. don't listen to any one here. and further more i'm far from an expert, i just know alittle something about electrical engineering. but hey that's cool. it's not my ride or my car that can't get loud tuned that high. good luck with you're spl endevours. do i see another lord baccus situation from splbassx forming here??

that will probably get you close, but the cabin accoustics are going to play a huge role in the RF of the car.

i've built amps and went to college as well. so have a few others here. but you can go right on ahead thinking you know everything. in a year or two you'll look back and go "damn did i really think that."

call them and give them the tracking number and verify the address, i just went through a similar thing last week.

not if either one of you can distinguish between rms and peak power out of a two channel a/b amp.

sounds like neither one of you know what your talking about. not to be an ass, but an accidental 139.x isn't bad. ditch that amp an pick up a better class d and you should be able to break 140's no problem. i'm doing a hair under 140 with a single 12 on music and a single dd m1 on music. (be it a very musical 140 ) so with a little more testing and certainly more power you should be right there.

if it's an a/b amp it would be 12x100x (about) 65-70% ( amps aren't 100 percent efficient) so =840 watts rms roughly. no where near 1200 rms an certainly not 1600-2000 rms. most of us won't count a score unless it's off the tl. sometimes possibly off the ac meter. i have an epic 150 with a meter on it, i don't trust it either.

what meter was it?? how are you getting 1200 rms out of a 2 channel a/b amp??

isn't that a two channel a/b amp doing 800 rms at 4 ohms bridged??

you're powering it with an orion 800.2??

because a mach5 is going to take anything near 2500 rms?? i'd say look into the dc sound labs group buy and try to get one of the level fours they have. there are a ton of subs that should be able to take that.