MKader17

Haha, I just wanted to make sure you didn't mean that a 285 on a 16" rim would be 1cm wider than a 285 on a 17" rim (assuming both tires are that rim size )

I assume you mean with 1" of rim width?

Not if he pulls in the spacing. He will gain an inch width for the same stance. So in reality, if he pulls the wheel in an inch, and shrinks the width of the tire 10MM, he will effectively shave ~1.25" off the stance. Exactly what I'm trying to figure out is how much a want to pull the stance in. Unfortunately my lift is a knuckle lift so the biggest limiting factor is the upper control arm interference with the tire. Currently with the 16" wheel and 4.5" back spacing (I'm pretty sure at least) I have about 0.5" of clearance. I just read somewhere that you only gain +0.25" going to 17"+, but if I thin out the tire I should gain a bit more.

So I'm starting to plan ahead for my wheels and tires for my truck. I currently have 315/75R16 with a 4.5" back space wheel. I've never been a big fan of how my tires stick out. While it's not much with the mud flaps I'd prefer the look of skinnier tires that tuck well. I'm thinking of jumping to an 18" wheel. This would allow me to do 5" back spacing. That was the stock back spacing and I think will help with the wheel bearings. For tires I can't really decide on width. It seems like a 305 is barely narrower (according to the manufacturers) but I'm thinking I might get a 295/285 and realize it is really narrow. I also know you can get different rim widths to help the tire look different, but I'm not sure about all the pros/cons.

Note 3 I think?

Rue Cler. Right on it. If you know where bosquette is, you know where I am.Dunno how I missed this. Awesome. Love the area. Hope you do as well.Nothing can compete with the family treatment I got in Rome....... But this is one of the most wonderful places on earth.My knee is horribly swollen today, so we just walked to the tower, but it's exceptional. The air is relaxing. Thank you for the recommendation. Absolutely ideal so far. I have a friend that is there right now as well.

Holy crap I'm still REALLY sore today. forearms biceps, delts, lats. Biggest soreness is still when straightening my arms. Forearms and biceps in that area feel sooooo tight.

Just noticed he's in the pool

How to have a fire during a burn ban?

Just remembered my Mom had used her work account to get Office 2013 for $10 and she gave it to me. Everything is set up and good to go now.

err, maybe semi-legit.

Trying to decide if I want to try open source office apps or try to find a good deal on a legit copy of Microsoft Office.

The bar is just high enough that I can grab it easily flat footed, and bend my knees just a bit so they don't touch on the way don. I have a small step ladder under me so its a small jump to get above the bar. I'm doing as a "negative" workout since i can't bust out a bunch of pull ups and I get tired of 1 leg assisted pull ups (on the step ladder). I really want to get good at pull ups. Best I've ever done is 7-8 at once and right now I'm now where near that.

Could barely sleep half the night. I did a work out yesterday and did some "reverse" pull ups where I would jump up, hold for a second and then slowly come down. I woke up in the middle of the night with my forearm and bicep muscles near my elbows were in so much pain. I had to try to sleep with my arms crossed because extending them wasn't going to happen.

I meant the steaks... And what your pan looks like after a 700* soak

Pics yo

No way. Unless they are seving $500 entries. Typical net profit in food service is 10-12% If that is your profit margin then you need to reconfigure your costs. J According to ole Robert Irvine cost of a plate should be roughly 33% food 33% overhead 33% profit. Waiter pay would come in the form of overhead.

The only cheaper route would be if they have kits to rebuild your upper arms and idler. Time vs money on that one, and possibly tools you don't have. Is the joint at the pitman arm on the pitman or the centerlink? How are your wheel bearings? Shocks? Sway bar bushings? What year is it on Mikey? Just replaced the left side wheel bearing. Ride side was replaced a couple years ago. I'll need t check the shocks and bushings. 2002 model

So I'm trying to figure out everything I need to replace with my Silverado front end (201,000 miles). I got under the truck while the wife turned the wheels (with it off). The only play I could see seems to come from the nut of the pitman arm and the idler arm. I could not see any play in the tie rods or the boot area of the pitman arm/ idler arm. When I jack up the truck by the lower a arm the upper control arms are obviously shot. I can't tell if the bottoms are shot. It seems that if I'm going to replace the upper control arm I should go ahead and do lower ball joint. I'm choosing just the ball joint on the lower to save about $120 in parts and make it so I don't have to remove the torsion bars. On the steering, it seems if I'm going to go through with the pitman and idler arm, I might as well replace the tie rods. I have also seen the Moog K6723 steering idler arm bracket, but not sure if it is neccesary. I can get everything mentioned above (Pitman, Idler, Idler Arm Bracket, 2 Out Tie Rods, 2 Inner Tie Rods, 2 Upper Control Arms, 2 Lower Ball Joints) for $526.46 with 2 day Amazon Shipping. It's a really good price, but I don't want to buy anything I don't need.

How easy is it to set up a VPN with a DD-WRT router

I actually really like the new plans from ATT. I'm considering getting my Dad and I on our own plan, which will cost me about as much as prepaid. I have found with prepaid ATT there has been multiple times where my wife has fast service (ATT postpaid) and I have not (Net10 with ATT Sim).

Remember that you will not get LTE like you would with something like a Moto X

I just saw a commercial the other day for 4 lines with phones for $160/month or $120/month.Yeah, and it's a bunch of bullshit.The only way to get the plan for $160 per month is to pay full retail for the phone (ie $600 for a Samsung or $650 for an iPhone...each), bring your own smartphone (which I don't have) or "finance" the phone over 2yrs at $30 per month per phone (which is an extra $120 per month for 4 phones). They'll sell you the phone for cheaper (ie $100 for an IPhone), but then your monthly bill is $260 instead of $160 (plus all of their bullshit fees and taxes in either instance). AT&T? 4 lines for $160, great phones for under $100. Gonna snag and HTC One M8 this weekend.HTC One M8 is retail $640. So to get the plan for $160 I either have to pay $640 for that phone or pay $32 per month for the phone. For 4 lines that's an extra $128 per month. So I could pay $2560 up front and get four HTC one's and a monthly bill of $160 ($100 for 10gb shared data + $15 per lone access charge), pay a monthly bill of $268 (not $160) plus taxes/fees and nothing up front, or pay a monthly bill of $260 ($100 for 10gb shared data + 4 line access charge@ $40 per line) plus taxes/fees and $400 up front for 4 HTC One M8's. Like I said, those ads are bullshit lies unless you already own a smartphone, which I don't. Hell, I have never in my life paid for a phone. I always just went with whatever they were giving away free. Moto X is great and has constantly has been having sales.