MKader17

Its not, just thought he would answer in his own words given he welds as a proffesion Those are his words. Mikey writes the Wiki'z!

Why is it a big deal that Mike copies and pastes his writings from Wiki?

???

So I'm back on the kick of trying to find some 18's for the truck that have a bigger backspacing so I can run some 285's that will be much more "tucked" than my 315's I really want to know if I can get away with some stock wheels but I don't have any to test before buying.

A lot of guys have a lot of property to sell today....

Damn, you had me going Mike.

Obviously some of the scratches in the plastic would need some real work

Any hope to fix some of these blemishes without re-paint? http://s1269.photobucket.com/user/michaelkader17/library/Car%20Photos?sort=3&page=1

Who's doing the work on the car? Make sure before you throw money at the car that it is indeed a bad unit. For example on my truck the speed sensors always show 3mph since they require voltage to operate and never get to 0mph on the tech2 scanner. To the untrained eye seeing 3mph sitting still would be a huge red flag but in this case it's normal. ABS light can also mean bad wheel bearing so I would jack the vehicle up and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and rock the wheel to see if there's movement. It only takes a little wobble to make the ABS sensor lose signal and even a millisecond of lost signal will trigger the ABS light/code. I'll be doing any work on the vehicle. I'll double check everything before hand. I've installed too many wheel bearings for the truck (damn lift that requires offset wheels).

I seen one on craigslist here a few days ago..I will see if I can find it..Why would he want it, he already changed them???

The code ended up being a P0442, small evap leak. I couldn't remember if it popped up after I got gas or not. I disconnected the battery for 15 min and now the code is gone. We will see if it was just the gas cap. On the other hand, my ABS/Brake light have been on for a while. The guy said that every wheel speed sensor says it is bad so it's probably the ABS controller. I know the front right one is bad as the guy that re-did my front end bushing re-installed it in such a way that the tire rubbed through it.

Is there a place online I can go and learn about products I should use. I used Zaino years ago when I got my truck. Since then I've only done washes and a couple of wax jobs. My paint still looks really good after a simple wash, even though I've neglected it. I need to get in the habit of being better. With the wifes new car coming up soon, I want to be diligent to keep it clean.

What is this sealant? I feel so ignorant about cleaning a vehicle all of a sudden....

Man today sucks. My stomach is killing me and we only have porta-potties at our building due to a bathroom reno. Walking all the way to the other building sucks.

Alright. So I think I'm basically looking for one with the auto off function. Shouldn't be too hard. I wonder how my phone will react with multiple bluetooth connections...

The cheap ones fail. I went through three of them. Need a good one if you want it to last.I believe this is the 'reliable' type http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-426101-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B006NZTZLQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1433257035&sr=8-1&keywords=obdlink+mx+bluetooth ...but I'd search on Mp3car.com for options. The $15 jobbies on Amazon will work to pull codes, but you can't leave them plugged in or they fail. Personally I'd run to Oreilly and grab their free code reader and check things out. Any reason I can't buy the LX instead of the MX?

Had the check engine light pop up on the truck today. Any recommendations on a bluetooth OBD2 scanner I can use with and android app?

Except it's true

Shouldn't claybar make your truck look dull since you are stripping off wax? What did you end up buying? Wax doesn't do anything for shine, polish does. The gloss factor of the paint itself is where the shine comes from. Wax should be stripped before clay. Wax is nothing more than a layer if protection. Reading that post is like reading one of Mike's posts...

Shouldn't claybar make your truck look dull since you are stripping off wax? What did you end up buying?

Lowes used to carry "Peel&seal" I have seen people use this before a whole lot cheaper than you "sound deadener companies" the lowes peal and seal is asphalt based wile most of your deadner compaines are butyl based...Some of the deadener is asphalt based as well..But depending on your climate conditions I would think twice In doing your "home improvent" deadening..As if you live in a warmer climate you will be dealing with a mess,and will be pissing in the wind to keep it applied to your trunk lid.ect.. If you have the budget I would suggest a reputable deadener company and butyl based material. Peel & Seal is pointless in a car. Complete waste of money.He also asked for mass loaded vinyl NOT deadener. Two completely different things. To block sound you NEED MASS. No other way around it. You also "cannot" have any leaks so 100% coverage is the goal. You might also read I said I would not suggest this,being you took time to read the post You implied it was worthwhile for something, that it isn't. I clarified.Plus he has deadener NOT at all what he asked for. He asked for MLV which you could generically just term as ANY heavy sheet material. Deadener is really light and sucks at blocking sound. No I did not? If anything I said it was a waste of time dummy He asked for MLV and you started talking about deadner. A complete waste of a post and is akin to someone asking about putting a new cam in there engine and then you talking about the cheap leaf blower super chargers on eBay. And then after wasting your time and there's you recommend they don't do it.

No DVD drive on other computers to transfer it to USB stick?

The view we had this week. Cozumel is out there directly ahead.

Is that $100 off contract or on contract?