MKader17

Also, I'm looking for a soldering station, any suggestions? My former boss uses a Aoyue brand in his shop. He said it's cheap and really good. It hold temp, which is nice.

So even if it is a nice fatty steak I should use an oil? Any particular oil? Is it worth perfecting the open air sear or should I be putting the pan in the egg and doing a pan sear? Should I still use oil with a pan sear? Also, I was considering grabbing a stainless pan that I don't mind thrashing to do searing instead of a cast iron since the BGE can produce so much heat.

The second flashlight does have 950 candle foot (or foot candle) if someone so happens to be shining a 1 ft^2 beam on a surface since a foot candle is the same thing as a Lumen/ft^2. But a beam cast any other size would result in a different foot-candle value. However no matter the size/shape of the beam the flashlight emits 950 lumens. SOOOOO why don't you use a unit of measure that actually makes sense instead of trying to sound smart.

On that note, how do you achieve that kind of crust in the BGE? I've tried many time, but it seem like to get a descent crust I end up burning other piece mostly due to flair up. If I turn the egg on full blast I tend to get flames coming out the top. I try to tame them down but the fat always seems to flair it up. I've tried putting in less coal and putting the grate in between the ring and the bowl. and let the coals burn a little more before putting it. Any tips? I've been tempted to just throw my cast iron on the egg and go from there.

Ahh, so basically your company is paying a 3 year loan -$500 on the vehicle under a lease contract? I assume they give you a stipend and whatever you can do with it is fine with them? Then at the end, you get to choose what happens with the lease vehicle and you start a new lease? Does your company have any restrictions on lease vehicles?

So the cost of a lease would be (down payment plus monthly payment * 36) -0 + ( maintenance (0)+ wear and tear+ lease fees) =costDon't forget the potential over mileage as well. Those fee's hurt.Iirc my dad pays extra to allow for more mileage You missed the point. You either pay for mileage you do not use or you pay extra when you use too much. It's a cost and fits in your equation. If it is all paid up front you can be blind to it and just consider it cost, but if you go over you underestimated. There is one time I've seen where a lease makes sense. My boss bought a new Toureg. His lease payment was subsidized in rate such that the sum of the lease payments + the buyout were LESS than the negotiated purchasing price. Obviously then it is a no brainer. It was a whopping $300 difference, but why not as it gave him the flexilibility to walk away. The fundamental flaw of a lease is that you are leasing a new car. This means no matter what you suffer from a depreciation hit that is huge. The second problem is you are being loaned both the value of the car and the value of the residual which is why they use a money factor instead of an APR. They have to hide it from you. Add to that the fact that the residual value is based on whole sale you get doubly fucked. Manufacturers of course realize this and subsidize it to make it work sometimes. I lease a used car. No companies do this in a normal lease fashion anymore. The lease your dad has is a CLOSED ended lease. Meaning the price of the car at the end of the lease is pre-determined. I lease used with an OPEN ended lease. This means I pick my residual value, but am also responsible. ie, if I buy a car for $50k and pick $25k as my residual at the end of the lease if the car is worth $30k I can sell it and pocket $5k, but if it is worth $20k then I owe $5k. The advantage of an open ended lease is that the money factor (APR) is usually much lower as there is no risk for the leasing company. It also allows businesses to then lease cars for the tax write off. Thanks for the information. It's hard a hell to find real information about leases (particularly the money factor). I always wondered how you leased a used vehicle. It's good information to know. So at the end of your lease are you responsible for selling the vehicle? Also, I remembered in the past saying something along the lines that you may get it "for free". How did that work? I didn't miss the part about the extra mileage, just meant that in my equation it was already lumped in to the payment. In no way was I saying it was worth it or that he wasn't paying for it. I feel like my dad got screwed on the deal. The worst part is it seemed by talking to him that, in his gut, he didn't care for the deal, but after getting his car totaled he went right back and did the exact same thing! It seems unlike him. The only new car him and mom ever bought was back in 1990. The only difference now is he has the cash available to buy any car he wants.

So the cost of a lease would be (down payment plus monthly payment * 36) -0 + ( maintenance (0)+ wear and tear+ lease fees) =costDon't forget the potential over mileage as well. Those fee's hurt.Iirc my dad pays extra to allow for more mileage

So the cost of a lease would be (down payment plus monthly payment * 36) -0 + ( maintenance (0)+ wear and tear+ lease fees) =cost

Also, general car buying philosophy is accepted at this time

Sean, I know you lease your work vehicle. Any body else lease? Where is the advantage of a lease? My Dad leased an RX350 and I just don't get why he would when he has the cash to buy one (or a 2 year old car that is much nicer for the same money)

Not trying to hate, but that UI is hideous and looks like a 1995 web page design show me a better one I can make it look like whatever I want How is it made? I've been making programs in LabView where I make the UI look like Android material design.

Not trying to hate, but that UI is hideous and looks like a 1995 web page design

Gah, I looooooooove sushi.

Finally got new shoes on the whip. 4 Years 11 months and 3 days. 66,129 miles Price of tires went up $2.01 per tire. Price to mount and balance was $80 compared to $40 (new state, new place) Taxes in new place are 9.5% compared to 7.75%. So overall a 4-5% cost up

Just contacted the manufacturer of my kit to see if they could send me a scrap blank din piece that I could figure out how to install in the gap. Then I could just add any amount I wanted to that.

Yeah, I did it partially in the past, but I never did the finish work. Not a project I'm looking to tackle at the moment. What I was thinking of is putting the H701 back down at the bottom, and then using a piece of ABS for the 1.5DIN hole and then install something like this for a phone mount (maybe a small tablet mount in the future). If you look at the install instructions for the mount I could ditch its mounting bracket and place just the sphere against the ABS which would make it look more professional. However, I still would have mostly a 1.5 DIN blank plate. I considered trying to get a material I could cut and do the same silverado lettering out and do LED's behind it, or contacting the manufacturer I bought that from and get them to cut me one with the DIN hole covered.

Problem is, I don't really feel like I gain much by doing a tablet. Pros - With a staionary connection I can get a usb to digital out.It looks cool.Cons At least a few hundo to implement.lots of custom work to make sure it fits smooth.can't remove tablet.Not sure how much better the audio quality will be when comparing digital out to bluetooth aptx when my main audio source is Pandora. Also, once I set the audio source I don't generally need to look at the phone/tablet.

1.5 din

So, I'm attempting to get the truck back to some semblance of normalcy. I moved the H701 to the top and re-installed my single DIN kit. Now I have a single DIN hole in the center console. I attempted to install a single DIN cubby, but I need the metal cage to make it work correctly. Even then, I have to use the biggest trim piece to cover the hole. Other options include going back to stock tape deck hole and adding the tape deck cubby, or something else.... meh I really think I prefer the H701 in the bottom mount better, but I just don't know what to do with that big 1.5 DIN area. I had considered just putting a piece of ABS textured plastic there and then putting a phone/table mount there. Any ideas? What would you do if the canvas was empty?

Everything all good now? Looks like they are still some nice storms up there by the lakes..Guessing thats what come through his area idk..I love being and whatching strong and severe storms as long as nobody gets hurt they are pretty cool..I have always been a bit of a dork when it comes to the weather I used to stay up all night when I was growing up and watch the weather channel all night..lolPart of why I love living by the Gulf. J May think I am crazy but I have always wanted to ride it out through a nice catagory hurricane I have. It's either no big deal or your totally screwed.

Explained the easiest way possible I know how,sorry for the misspelling but I was on my phone. Serious if you would like to mess with some one next time you are looking for a flashlight and they ask what your looking for..Tell them at least 100 sq ft of candela and see the look on their face. Your average person 97% chance is not going to have a clue what your talking about even if they research it chances are they will never get itno. They will just think you are a retard. I just want a walk flashlight that does what I need it to. Could care less if it is rated. Maybe so.. But thinking you are retarded and being retarded is two completely different things...Making someone look retarded that assumes you are retarded is priceless. Well the only people I am asking about flashlights are here...Yeah, and you can't pull that candela shit over on us cuz we been educated!

I stayed away from the BFG All-Terrain here after seeing multiple reviews where they weren't much better off road than Hankook Dynapro ATM's and Toyo Open Country's, and were considerably worse on the road. Considering I spent 99% of my time on road I can't see paying more for less road performance.

I love my Hankook DynaPro ATMs. I got 60K out of them and I wasn't very good about rotating.

My dad won't take his truck to the local mall. It's right on I10 and early 2000's F250's are notoriously easy to break into if you don't have a special plate installed behind your door handle. I know one guys who's truck was stolen. They found the truck stripped. Then another family friend got his stolen. When he got it back the back seat was ripped out and it had about 20,000 more miles on it.