MKader17

In all seriousness, if I'm taking a shot of a room, what's the best way to capture it with the light fixtures in the photo and not have them be beacons of over exposure

All about them filters yo.

Please, I know thats why you got the WiFi option .

Instagram has about 80% of Lightroom's capabilities Id say

Plus, why use Lightroom when you can use the Instagram filters?

Realtor asked me if I could have them playing for the open house, etc.

So in the big picture, I have 2 speakers in the bedroom, bathroom and dining room ( I also have 4 speakers in the living room, but i use the BIB's instead). I only use 1 speaker in each room because it's all you need (plus the speakers face each other directly in bathroom and dining room, which I bet cause some cancellation). I am selling my house and am looking for an inexpensive way to put power to these 3. I did have a Dayton T-Amp but i think pot issues wrecked it. IIRC, when turning up the pot to full I end up with 3.2 Ohms resistance and the Dayton Amp only tolerates 4 ohms.

Quick (home) audio question. I need to get at least 3 channels of amplification on the cheap. Also trying to decide if I want to potentially replace my volume knobs in the rooms. If not, I would prefer to be able to control each channels' volume at the source. Controlling via LR fade would be fine. Willing to make compromises on all of it. I'm scared to use the volume pots because I think they've destroyed multiple amps at this point. The only one that has survived them is the Adcom and I'm not going to ever hook it back up to them. When I connect to them with a multimeter, can I trust the resistance value I'm getting?

Looked at the 40D again. I feel like i should start with a camera that accepts SD Cards...

PS - That isn't me being smart and trying to lead the horse to water. It's just a random idea I thought of. More like another horse looking around and saying, "Is that water? we should go see."

Looks like the picture meta data is still attached to the photos. Maybe you could use that to see what equivalent you would be in with a DSLR.

I've bought used once and had no issues. My current laptop is used, but was free. I'll do some looking; a lot of times you can buy the computer you want with less ram and you can buy 16gb of laptop ram for $60

Think I'll order that RAM mount. With those rubber pieces do you have a problem operating the phone when you need to? Do you have the Xgrip on your current bike? I don't jump anything . I plan on using it on my road bike. I've always put my phone in a pouch on the top bar that had a little net that stretched over it. The new phone is too big for that. Thought about the RAM mount fo rthe car too, but those rubber pieces are huge. I wonder if I could make them smaller or if I'd get used to them.

I came across this Delta one. It attaches to the top of the stem, which I though was kinda cool. http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Smart-Holder-Handlebar/dp/B00K8PYT2M?ie=UTF8&ascsubtag=pfb-DPD-1-2-144748521270817&ref_=pfb_DPD_1_2_144748521270817&tag=hydfbook0e-20

What caused the zoom to be useless in this situation? Was it just the depth of field (DOF?) of the 2.8 compared to the 1.4? I hear a lot about portraits at a low fstop where the eyes are in focus, but the ears aren't. Is that actually desirable? When buying a 50mm for a crop, am I really getting a 70-75mm equivalent? I spent some time today talking with our resident camera expert. He gave me a lot of good advice (which is very similar what you guys have said here). I can also ask him the stupid questions and get quick responses

Are primes inherently better than zooms? If I had the 17-55 f2.8 set at 24mm would I get the same shot as a 24mm f2.8 prime lens?

Safest option seems to be a custom mount where I affix my own mount to a case. I really don't want to pop it in and out of a case to put it on the bike, but maybe I should be more concerned about it not getting broken.

Anyone ever researched a cell phone mount for a bike?

Is that really a zoom?

Like $453 (total) - $329 (new 50/1.4) = $224?

The 1.4 was used like new for $289. There was an excellent condition one for $278 The 40d was $164. Based on what I've read here and elsewhere those are good prices for that equipment, why does combining them make it a steep deal? The rebels don't seem to be as good as a similarly priced.. Will type more later

After a quick look I could find a 40d and a 50mm 1.4 for $453 shipped in great condition condition. Would that not be a good starting point? Also, the difference I'm seeing in 60d to 70d is huge; like nearly double the price. What's the difference between 60d and 6d and the like?

Would $500 be to low for a body and prime and then I could grab a zoom later? It seems like if I can get a 40D in the $180 range, I could get a descent lens for $220.

We have a Canon PowerShot that we rarely use because I'll just use my phone camera. I fell like the quality of pictures of a simple DSLR on auto with a kit lens is so much more amazing than a simple P&S. I want to learn to be better with a camera, and feel like I can take the typical Sean approach, buy used, and if I don't really stick with it, I can sell it and lose little to nothing.

A camera is quickly moving up the priority list as the W and I are planning to start our family. Looks like I could get into the game around $500. Not to Hijack Seth's camera talk, but any suggestions? Kid stuff will be first priority with landscapes being second priority.