MKader17

No because I know how hungry boosted vehicles are. Granted it may be different on water. That's a whole different animal, tune, and drag, so I may be wrong, but with a vehicle, if you are into the boost, you are using up a lot of fuel. Keep in mind you are forcing air in and compressing it where as the NA can only suck air in. The more air you have, the more fuel you need, so the blower is always going to need more fuel and a lot more. I was summoned to bed about the time I read this, so you know what I thought about all night (well not the first 15 minutes). Went through a huge calculation to "verify" things this morning, but am missing some information to really prove anything out. I have some conclusions however. Currently my boat pulls: 5200rpm at 38mph using 32 gallons/hr 3420rpm at 25mph using 4 gallons/hr Conveniently it is easy to calculate the different fuel used as the ideal gas law is linear. PV=nRT so if we increase the pressure x% we increase our oxygen intake the same and therefore assuming we keep the same fuel to 02 ratio we are golden. That being said going all the way up to 10psi of boost yields 1.68x the gas at the same RPM. (24.696/14.696). Then the question becomes propulsion and can you pick a prop with the right pitch & diameter such that the rpm of the motor will change, but keep the boat speed the same. I am not a prop guy so I'll make the assumption that this is possible. I do know there are a crap ton of props and that mine has an extremely aggressive prop (14.25 pitch which means one revolution with no slip moves the boat forward 14.25inches - as a reference my bass boat has a 27p prop and tops out near 80 at nearly the same RPM's as the Malibu doing just under 40mph and has nearly double the pitch). The only other question is do you have the power to turn it? In order to get there, the boost comes into play. Here I eyeballed: http://www.powerbloc...bang4buck/0703/ and came up with a power table. From my table you can see that in current stock form my boat makes around 220hp at 3450rpm where I cruise at 25mph. Even if I only gain 30% from 10psi I would only need to be spinning 2950rpm with the right prop to maintain that speed. 25mph is where my hull is the most efficient. The spot that makes this near impossible to determine is knowing my current fuel consumption curve. I only have two points. 25mph at 4.5gal/hr and 38mph at 32gal/hr. Since that curve looks far from linear it is hard to tell what drives it. One thing is for sure though, with a 40% gain in power I should be making around 340hp at 3700rpm instead of 5200rpm. This should mean that I'd be an awful lot closer to the 4gph than the 32gph (and then of course we adjust by 1.68x) which seems to me that it'd be more efficient where I am using it. So that being said I do think I will see both a top end improvement and efficiency improvement through lowering the rpms while running at a real cruising speed. If I had more points on the actual consumption of my boat so I could determine a curve I could really dial this in including exactly how much boost to use for what prop and such...or so I think anyways. Don't forget increased frictional losses! . j/k It's ridiculous that I took an IC engines class last semester and I've already forgot a good sum of it. I will consult my book soon just to double check

That makes me think of my 2 pups! They can bark so loud! Haha, I thought of you trav

I'm writing T0P because I HAF too!

HAF has a new look! Help it out my answering my question over there! lol http://www.homeaudioforum.net/topic/346-stabilizing-my-bibs-on-soft-carpet/

No because I know how hungry boosted vehicles are. Granted it may be different on water. That's a whole different animal, tune, and drag, so I may be wrong, but with a vehicle, if you are into the boost, you are using up a lot of fuel. Keep in mind you are forcing air in and compressing it where as the NA can only suck air in. The more air you have, the more fuel you need, so the blower is always going to need more fuel and a lot more. You have to also take into account that, like Ryan said before, the boosted engine has more fuel. So more RPMs don't necessarily mean more fuel. Not saying that it does or doesn't but it's something to consider. I meant air on my last post. A boosted engine with have more molecules of air in it because it is compressed which means you will need more fuel to make a complete combustion. Again that doens't mean that happens at the parameters you mentioned, but it could. If it already has a s/c I would run with it

No because I know how hungry boosted vehicles are. Granted it may be different on water. That's a whole different animal, tune, and drag, so I may be wrong, but with a vehicle, if you are into the boost, you are using up a lot of fuel. Keep in mind you are forcing air in and compressing it where as the NA can only suck air in. The more air you have, the more fuel you need, so the blower is always going to need more fuel and a lot more. You have to also take into account that, like Ryan said before, the boosted engine has more fuel. So more RPMs don't necessarily mean more fuel. Not saying that it does or doesn't but it's something to consider.

I guess I should also include that the data is 2 sided. From the vehicle computer I am logging important engine data (RPM, etc...) From the Engine itself I am testing oil samples and logging the results (oxidation, nitration, metal concentration, etc...)

Anyone had experience with handle HFD's? That's a new term I coined meaning Huge Fucking Databases. I have to handle second by second data for 10 trucks over the next year. I need to be able to organize it by Truck , Sample Interval (This number changes after every oil sample), Day of the year, and Run # for the day, etc.... I've loaded 2 runs into Excel for one truck on one day and I have over 34,000 lines of code already

More people need to start using Google+

I think you just go into your normal screen saver settings

Meh, I'm old and about to pass out. I'll hit up the laptop tomorrow as well

Denim, I found the old PM that you had sent me and set it up with that. Going to go ahead and install it on my laptop, and get my other desktop kicking in the AM

PC had to install 46 updates when I booted it up. Guess it has been a while.

Aaron, I cranked up the old PC (Thought I threw it away, but turns out I didn't) I still have Bionic and all that so let me know what I need to set up. It's also on a more "stable" wired connection instead of wireless. I have had problems with my little USB wireless adapters overheating.

The front of the M looks MUCH better in my opinion.

Assuming you are non-rooted you have to hit the menu button then normally select "more" then "select text". I think you only get one shot on the Droid with the stock software and starting it in the right place is the hardest.

Diesels don't have a big rpm range like gas engines, so you can't say that because it ran out of juice at 4k, 4k is probably near red line lol. Our diesel pick up would fucking haul at 1500, 2000rpm. I would think all diesel vehicles are designed to deal with the additional weight, I don't see how they couldn't be... mmm, there's nothing better than sitting on the highway rolling about 1750 at 70 then rolling the throttle and being at 90 in no time with no down shift

Denim, shoot me a PM with all the info. I will be getting my desktop set up this week

At my job I was able to install Google chrome without admin priveleges I wish that were the case for me. I've tried and it blocked it Thats sucks. i don't know why it worked on Google Chrome for me. It told me that I needed admin privileges so I hit okay or cancel and it installed it anyways. Wouldn't work on anything else though. No worries now though as I needed admin for something else and they never took them off.

Yes, by idiots. I am an idiot . I did that on my kick panels for my first truck. however, my fabric was a super thick material that had a lot of random fibers. It took a hell of a lot of sanding but it was strong afterwards. I didn't see yours either. Seen plenty fails that way tho http://s51.photobuck...0Kick%20Panels/ <- Link to the rest of the pics

At my job I was able to install Google chrome without admin priveleges

Wow, some people are ridiculous.

Just wanted to say I got my mattress today. When I walked in they said they were having a special and you could get free delivery or a free stand or not pay taxes. I bought a bed that was "originally" $2700 marked down to $940 then marked down another $100. I walked out with free delivery, a free stand, a free mattress protector, and %10 off the final purchase.

Yes, by idiots. I am an idiot . I did that on my kick panels for my first truck. however, my fabric was a super thick material that had a lot of random fibers. It took a hell of a lot of sanding but it was strong afterwards.

So reading through this I gathered that you drive a Ford Ranger that is extended cab? Since you know nothing about active/passive I would go passive since it is much easier. You will just have to do a LOT of searching for component sets. Everyone practically makes something descent. I know that finding places to listen to them are hard, typically, so I would really just pay attention to reviews, particularly how good the tweet is. That seems to be what makes or breaks a descent set of components. Definitely sell the 200.4 and downgrade. It would really help your budget. To make your component system sound good you will have to build and MDF baffle to mount it. As for the Subs, what size is the box? Ported... tuned???