DIYiT

so to be clear, is this a closing of the company, or a new direction with a new site and/or forum and/or distributor?

I suppose what I'm thinking about is how pesky snow can be. Do you live in an area prone to snow? I have an older plastic tool box on my truck, and over the years the plastic has warped just enough that it doesn't seal anymore. Now anytime there's blowing snow, I find drifts inside the toolbox. If you only have to worry about rain water, I think you can easily pull it off. My proposal focused more on trying to ensure snow couldn't find it's way to the driver either.

I've read about people using accordion style rubber boots for campers (not sure where they are used on a camper, nor do I know what they look like) to create the seal they need between the cab and the bed. Since you want to do a true IB, how about a chest style tool box where you could cut the sides of the chest out (this would leave the sides of the box somewhat protected by the bed rails and from the natural flow of air over the truck when driving). What I envision is a vent that works much like the A/C vents in a vehicle only electrically controlled. When the truck is off, the vents could be closed with a slope downward so that rain and the elements don't get into the box, but with a small motor, the vents could open up allowing air to freely move in and out of the box. This way the sub would be totally protected except when the truck is on and running (and you could even put a bypass switch on so that you could choose IB or sealed depending on weather).

that would be another type of displacement i think....

with an Sd or 1029.2 cm^2 and an Xmax of 22mm we get 1029.2 * (2 * 2.2) = 4528.48 cm^3 or 4.5 liters of peak to peak swept volume

I'd look into Mach 5 Audio IXL 18.4. Right now, you could afford two drivers and honestly, I don't know if you'll need more than that, but and upgrade to four drivers will definitly shake the foundations of your home. Note: they are available in 4 ohm ONLY. A pair will have to be wired to 8 ohm for the EP2500 to handle. You won't be able to utilize the full potential of the amp until you get all four and can wire back to 4 ohm.

Does anybody have *.frd files, *.txt, or high resolution images of the frequency response of the driver along with graphs of the impedance? I'd like to model the drivers up with some crossovers in speaker workshop.

I just got my hands on a copy of Windows MCE 2005, and from the looks of it, one is able to program the remote/computer to work with a cable box somehow. I don't have cable (I only have the plain old airwaves in the middle of nowhere, where I live), but the setup allows for a settop box cable tuner to be controlled somehow. Maybe somebody else with more cable TV experience can chime in?

I realize I'm reviving a dead thread, but did you ever finish the speakers? I'm interested in a set of active Dayton Reference speakers, and I'm wondering how this turned out for you? PS, are the links broken for everybody or are they just blocked by my schools firewall?

I don't know how the output will be, but considering they are known for their low distortion, look into the Dayton RS line for some cheap quality speakers. Right now, Parts Express is having a sale on the 4 ohm versions of the 5, 6, 7, & 8" drivers in that line. Also, do you have the crossover/amps for an active 3 way setup for a front stage. I've been looking at possibly getting the Dayton RS225-4 (8"), Dayton RS125-4 (5"), and an Audax 1" neodymium tweeter. This should give you quite some output, though I can't say if it will meet your 150+ db expectations.

That "kick" is midbass, which a subwoofer has no business reproducing IMO. ANeonRider is right, most of the "kick" IS in the midbass, but since most people use subs with too high of a crossover and a tuning which creates high amounts of harmonic distortion in the 80-150 hz range, most people experience large amounts of midbass from their subs. The IXL however, due to it's high inductance, produces very little for midbass; add to that the pure output it has at low frequencies, and the IXL will seem to produce no midbass at all, which I believe to be a very good thing, however tastes differ, and if you're looking for some of the normal sub "kick," look into the MJ-18.

If you like some of the "kick" and "slam" that most people are accustomed to, port it 35 Hz or higher. However, a friend has the IXL in a 7.5 cu ft box tuned to 30 Hz. I love the low end, but it doesn't have the "kick" that his previous Audiobahn 12 or MJ-18 had. The IXL is a low end monster, but it will lack the normal car sub sound, so some of your decision will depend on taste. (Edit: Grammar & Spelling)

Sounds like I opened a can of worms... I wasn't meaning to complain... just curious. I know they're a great deal and plan on getting a bunch of drivers for me and my father when money permits. I was just wondering if money would be saved by getting both at the same time; once again, didn't mean to sound like I was complaining.

I can see where the prices are the same if you buy one unit... but if I remember correctly, total cost (including shipping) per unit went down as more drivers were bought because of saved shipping costs. Will prices for multiple driver orders reflect this same behavior?

Something like 500 watts would bring you to xmax at 20 Hz. If you set gains well and watch the level you play at, 1000 watts would be good for headroom and transients.