duanebrow

Are you modeling this with anything or just guessing? I use WinISD. If you would like to find out what your tuning and box size changes it is a great place to start.

Sorry about my wording. The grand prix is not mine. It is a customer of mine. He said that the place that installed his system built the box for him because the one that he had didn't fit in his trunk. I think they used kickers smallest ported box size. The kicker seems to like a 6cf box. In the smaller box it peaks at around 50hz+. Duane

He won't need a ep 2000 for the mains. It would make a nice sub amp though. I'd look for an Behringer A150. The kit you linked is very nice, but it is not made for in wall use. The xo would need to be changed. However it would be better than bose. Anything but that! Lol. If you post this over on the parts express forum you will get more suggestions. Duane

Your HTIB sub is most likely tuned to 30 Hz. With a sub sonic filter below that. I'd use the DCON's with a ss filter and forget about the HTIB junk. Duane

Try modeling the subs in WinISD It won't show cabin gain but you can see excursion and the port air speed. It could help you chose a driver and box. Duane

One more question that I should have asked in my last post. Is this going to be used for music or movies? The other thing to consider is putting the subs each in their own box and spreading them out will help to even out room modes. If you are going to put them back in a car at some point it might not be worth while to worry about. If this is just a temp thing the proaudio amps should have better resale value than most audio stuff. Duanee

What kind box do you have the subs in? A new box might help. Also Crown has a amp that you should look at. It is about the same price and the xo can be setup by your pc.

One thing you can look for is leaking capacitors. I have an amp with a bad capacitor in the muting circuit. It acts the same as yours.

If you want to use the base boost on the head unit. Then you need to set the amp gains with the boost and volume as high as you will ever turn them. Then turn them down. Base boost normally doesn't help. It just makes it easy to clip your amp. LOL

Sorry about the typo. I didn't draw any more braces cause the drawing was cluttered enough. You should add at least two more braces to tie the top and bottom of the main box together. just make sure they aren't in the way of the subs or their vents. Duane Gotta go cook supper... I'll check in later! zshortcut. if you send me your email i will send a better pic (PDF)

The port is about 36" long, I think... The kids are on the computer. So I can't look it up. I'll post a pic when I get back on the pc. Most likely tonight.

It should, have you used winISD before? It won't model cabin gain. But you can see the difference between different tunings.

If you have the tools. If you haven't built anything before then I'd find someone to help you. You need the cuts to be right on. And you don't want to lose any fingers.

SSA lists 4cf. but I'd think you could be ok with as little as 3cf. I didn't know you had these installed already. do you have a pic? How does 22" deep sound? 16x33x22. I haven't quite got the details down yet, but it should end up close to 4cf. Ok, I've got a final design. 15x33x22. net vol = 3.5 cf. 3.5x14.5 slot port. Port and subs facing back. you should get about 6db more out of this box at 40hz. (than your sealed box) That is like adding 2 more subs! Duane

SSA lists 4cf. but I'd think you could be ok with as little as 3cf. I didn't know you had these installed already. do you have a pic? How does 22" deep sound? 16x33x22. I haven't quite got the details down yet, but it should end up close to 4cf.

There are other details of the design to look at. How much power will you be pushing these with? I'll model it and see the differences in boxes. That brings me to the next point. There is a limit on the depth. At some point you won't be able to fit it in. If you want ported then you need to figure it out. Duane

LOL I know. I can draw in 2d Cad. I'll have to look into it tonight. Will you do this yourself? Or take it to someone? Also

Michigan.

I'd think that is each port needs to be 33"

You have to give more info. How thick is the box going to be? How much space is used by bracing and the subs? A rough estimate is 19-20". I used 12.5 cf as the box size.

1. Silicone the seams from the inside, all of them. 2. MDF 3. Drywall screws. Or whatever you want. Predrilling is a good idea, just use a very small bit. Duane.

Use WinISD. Tuning is about 40hz. I don't know what those subs like, but it should get loud in any case.

I'd like to see pics. How does it sound? Does the L7 sound better than the old sub?

Yes, just don't change the port or box volume. For subs shape does't matter. However I think you need more space behind the sub. If you have a vented pole (a hole in the back of the sub) you should keep it at least the diameter of the hole away from any walls.

SSA has box designs, but they might not work in your space. Also you didn't say how deep the box could be. Going by your max size of 33 x 16 x 13 inches deep. I'd use a double baffle and recess the drivers. Then add .25" of extra depth to allow for space taken up by braces. Total 14" depth. Btw. I build boxes if you need help Duane