the727kid

1500 including batteries. You got to add up all your fuses too, that will get pricey. I have 3 fuses on each of my batteries at $20 each it can add up. (one before the main battery, one before the kinetik, one between the battery and amp)

I'm not Shawn....but. Alt - $350 100 feet of 0 gauge - $250 Kinetik 2400s - $325 each

Good chit. Makes me want to buy an SUV lol. I can't wait to get my BL fixed (just got the parts today ). Any idea what you meter?? And also if you can find a good deal on 0 gauge do multiple runs directly to the batteries + and -. I have 2 runs of + and 2 runs of -. One of each going to each kinetik in my trunk, my voltage stays pretty damn healthy in the back (above 13 sittin my driveway).

Loaded BL, ~1900 watts, umm wtf how this happen? And how do I fix it?

Alright appreciate it very much!! After examing the subs a lil more I think the issue may have been the felt padding wrapping around tinsel lead. I can't wait to have these babies back in, didn't really start missing them until I put the old TIs in lol.

Bump, Scott did you get the tinsel leads out?

Sweet, active, dual midbass here I come

Is it possible to do 100x2 @ 4ohms and then 160x2@2 on the other 2 channels?

What it says, I have an oppurtinity to change the subs out. I have ~2000rms to work with per sub, just curious which one would be louder and if the DMXs can get low, cuz the BLs don't get the lows I want. '

How much would it be to recone to 15s?

Alright you have e-mail.

Cool, I think have an understanding of things a lil better now. How much it would it cost for a new dustcap and lead, and how hard is it to do?

So say at a 2ohm load 2000watts would be nothing for these subs. But at a .5 load, beause of the less resistance it more harsh on the subs?

Haha I did read, but his first response to me was I was clipping all hell out of the amps.

Yea, I know it basically that. I'm just pretty sure they weren't clipping, but just couldn't take the power.

I never "got happy" with the volume knob it is set to 60/80 and I maybe turn it to 62 at most on weak bass songs.

So would cooling the amps significantly help? I have 10 computer fans laying around waiting for a home.

It's barley up at all lol.

That's the thing though, when I first put them in I had the gain set higher, then on the rebuild I set it probally ~7v lower and it was quieter, but I was like w.e and it still happened.

Stage 2s here I come then lol.

So if I unstrap the amps and run each amp at .5 (I cant run a 1ohm with my configs) you think they will be good?

I set the gains with a DMM to set at .375 (even tho amps see a .5 load) and they did not sound like clipping at all. I've read other people saying these subs can't handle that much power either and getting pretty hot at 1600rms.

Well they don't have ALOT of play on them but the suspension is WAY looser than it was when i first got them.

Qs? I have BLs, but I am selling my TIs, which from what I have heard pretty equal to the Fi Qs.

Everyone else is doing one so I figured I would too. I am only going to show pictures up to right before the final install, since I am re-doing that Wednesday. The HU, love this thing been a very nice HU to me. Some pictures of the equipment 2 12" BLs, flatwind and cooling 2 Sundown 1500.1s All the equipment + my old subs 75 Feet of 0 Gauge (not including the 25 feet already in the car) First off, building the false floor. Had to raise it up on 2x4s to make clearence for the batteries. Running the 0 gauge, I actually managed to fit 3 runs of it down one side of the car Everything just about wired up Carpeting the Floor More pics coming Wednesday Night! BTW: Some pics of the doors being deadned: At the beginning: All deadned: Some pics of the box build....should be done by Sat night at latest... BTW this is a very complicated box, the port is lifted 3" (doing a false floor) to clear the amps but the subs get that extra 3" for airspace. Specs are 4.8 cubes after displacement @ 32hz.