lee

Can I get one please?

IMHO... it's simply a better design, period. Same power level from 12v - 16v, more efficient, lower distortion, more elegant design. This model costs around the same as the previously discussed 5000D if you don't figure in the engineering costs and tooling costs to get started (which will be alot, but worth it, IMO) - in reality does more power @ 12.0 volts as well (literally 12 point zero volts = 4000 watts RMS @ 0.01% THD). I do not like the 5k and 7k based designs from my current build house... it's not really the cost to repair as much as they are almost impossible to repair, period. Don't get me wrong... they are fine amplifiers when working, but I don't like the difficulty of repair and this other design is simply superior. This sounds like regulated power supplies,.....yes?

I thought I was the only one

Nuff said

I prefer cone area over power first

When are you going to have this back in stock? I need a set

i have an Optima yellow top model D51 under the hood and a kinetik HC2400 in the trunk. They are running off a 180 amp iraggi alternator. I have 0 gauge throughout my vehicle including the Big 3 in 0 gauge. its a 2003 civic lx coupe. my in dash has a 6 volt preamp output. thats about all i know about my system. planning on getting 2 sets of MB Quart premium series component systems and running them with a kicker 250.2 Now that I know you have a sufficient electrical, if you decide to go with BTLs, all I ask is look into a better quality amp. everything else seems really good to me

He didn't really say anything wrong. My point was people jump strait for the biggest series of drivers and try to cut corners somewhere else. If a BTL is the choice, send it clean power with a quality amplifier aswell. His choice of amp for the btl is not a wise one imo that's all.

I'm deffinately not confused. you were overpowering those subs in a ported box without the ssf adjusted properly to prevent damage to your equipment

Thick & brown.......lol

wow shes got big..........j/k

I wouldn't worry about universal but that's me. I believe the d2 gap is the universal gap anyway, but I've been wrong before.

I know what i'd pick, but the question is what would you pick?

If the enclosure is sturdy and all specs are built around the subs liking, you are good. Cosmetics are of personal tastes.

you haven't told us anything yet about the vehicle or what your plans are for the system. that being said, I can eliminate the BTL right now. I dont know why people just wanna jump strait to something that will be sub par ( not a pun ) for their design limits. Why not try something better suited for you like: SSD, Q, ICON, or the like?

If its good for you, thats all that matters

Basically the situation is this, ''Q'' series are usually in a sealed box (they sound good in general) vs the bl that must be in a ported. If the ported is a quick slap together build, then the sealed will deffinately sound better. Sealed is way more forgiving to errors over ported. If the time was spent to build a ported variety around the bl, there is no reason it should sound bad. The two produce totally different sounds between them. If the sub is installed in an enclosure built to series specs, you can achieve a desired sound by the amount of airspace you put behind it. They both will sound good if done right

Thats a big amp for two ssd subs Thats a problem. having the ssf all the way down in a ported enclosure and powered by a kicker 2500. All of those things are a compounding problem for you. These are the probable causes to your failure: 1) Ported box with ssf all the way down is NOT guarding against over excursion 2) Two SSDs that have an 800wrms rating each so 1600 total with a Kicker 2500 powering them

Imo, the crunch 3000d pro still hasn't proved itself to me as far as output everyone states it can do. That being said, why not 4xSSD 18s. More bang for the buck if you're going to run that amp for all four subs. If two of em are being run, then BL 18s is what i'd do

Powermaster xs is well respected lately

Earthman, The dilemma is this... the lower power rated amp would cost more, so it doesn't make much sense. I suppose I will wait to do anything until I can try to develop a smaller sized PCB with the new build house so I can stick with one product to cover that segment. Ok, just call the new one a 1000d and 86 the old after they run out. There... done, just moved the old model # onto the new heatsink

^^^^^^^I do too. I cant wait to get one. Timing might suck though,as it may be christmas time by then and all my $ will be wraped up in the family ehh

Imho, bring out the large case amp and call it the 1000d (sounds,looks & appeals better to the customer) It's easier on the pocket book & has a slight increase in power though not audible. I believe that would be a "hook,line & sinker" to the average customer. Keep the origional case (current 1000d) and turn it into a 500d later on down the road. the 800 & 1000 are too close together to be lucrative to your business imo

I replied to this at caraudio.com

I think it's around 120-125wrms per channel @ 4ohm