lee

Looks like you've got it figured out so far. If you do end up with serious power like you mentioned, Fi BTLs, Sundown Nightshades, DC Audio level 5 and some others will fit the bill nicely.

Those are both solid choices. Have you also looked at our other manufactures on this site? SSA Icon Soundsplinter Incriminator Audio Mach5 Sundown DC Audio etc All make great subs for you to choose from

I'm sorry you didn't understand what I was saying. I've been doing this way to long to e-battle over something I know about, so with that in mind I'm going to give you the benefit of the doubt in the matter. I will from now on assume you know the facts of which you speak, and will leave it as so. I am not here to argure with people over small issues, I don't know you, you don't know me. I was trying to give examples so he could easier make a solid decision. I appolagize Anthony for taking your thread off path. Let's get back on track

you know better, so I dont consider you a part of the problem. you're good

Fi hasnt posted all the T/S parameters for the new BTLs ,but I can tell you the 18'' btl speaker displacement is .26cubic foot each. Its range is from 5cubes- to around 10cubes. keep tuning somewhere around 32hz with 12-16 square inches of port per cubic foot of air space

And chopping up what I said to make you look better makes you ignorant, but whatever, you disrespect me and put me on blast like that, you're a fool!

Nope. Completely meaningless Please tell me your joking with this type of logic... Nope. You need to get off your high horse partner. You obviously dont know what you're talking about

Just blows me away how people want to jump strait to a BTL without knowing whats needed for em

most are open for it. Unless he didnt realize it was and is not open idk

I'm not surprised he said that. Another car audio sales rep with the ''deer in the headlights'' expression lol

Anthony, could you give us more detail on how you want to go about this? I heard something about a convertible ect. but we need more details like, how much power you will run,what amps, etc. I have a ''Q'' series and my poor car is taking a beating. I even think an SSd or two would be up your alley. Seriously though, you cant rely soley on the numbers given by the manufacture to make an ethical decision on what sub to purchase. For instance, the SSD has a power rating of 800watts, doesnt seem too impressive right? Well, it will do just fine being mellow on some smooth jazz or any soft passage style music. Then you decide you want to shake up the block a little, so you crank it up and a new beast unveils itself, destroying everything you throw at it. Trust me man, dont dwell on the numbers. They all handle well over rated if done with respect. Just some food for thought

Because, just incase his install doesnt have the backbone behind it the btl will not be in his best interest. You need a strong electrical system, lots of power, and a well designed and strong enclosure , among other things to do a btl any justice. Anything less and the btl would not be as impressive as would something from a lower series of speaker. That's alot more money involved to support a btl sub properly, don't you agree?

yes

That's what you need to do first Autozone doesnt know how to check alternators properly I called him today and only kept getting his answer machine. He wont be back until monday

No harm, no foul. Thats why I posted because it seems he went around it by replacing things.

no pun intended

I know those kicker zx1000s bench around 1100-1200 watts, you're good there. However, you are on the higher side for volume. Together, big box plus big power = bottoming out on some low notes. I suggest you raise the subsonic filter frequency until the sub doesnt bottom out at those frequencies. Only other thing I think it could be, is two or more panels smacking together causing a claking sound due to the thin wall material or joint construction they use in pre-fab boxes, (usually 5/8). This has happened to me in the past, but would be the last thing to check due to the top issue more than likely being the problem you're having trouble with.

listen to what Nick said, he knows what he is talking about.

I was thinking the same thing brother

That's a stout score

Well the battery is DC ( one way ) and it fell on speaker outputs, AC (speaker moves in & out). does the sub still play normally till you shut it off? then it pops?

he already stated no. What head unit do you have? Can you explain exactly where your grounds are and how you changed them to try and fix it? I read this thread over again and did not see where he said that. I found ''power & speaker'' and that is not the same thing

Should be a hot seller

sounds to me like the soft turn on circuit or ( anti-thump ) circuit got damaged.