Colbyjack

Nice build Julian! Keep it coming!

Jacob posted this in June sometime: Don't know if its changed though.

Dont see anything either.

Sad too hear. I hate seeing American businesses having to close their doors. I've never had the pleasure of dealing with you personally, but with all of the support and positive comments stated here about your product as well as you personally, you should rest assure that whatever your next venture is, you will continue to spread joy to, and gain respect with, those individuals you come in contact with. And as cliche as it sounds, when one door closes, another opens up. Pursue whatever it is in life that drives you and makes you happy. Keep your head up, with the great things everybody here has to say about you, your future is bright!

So is a 3.9^3 box too big for a single Btl N2 12" on a Saz-2500? I know that the spec sheets say 1.75-2.5 cubed. It was professionally designed and the person who designed it says that it still falls within the thermal/mechanical specs for this sub, so they dont understand why i am questioning its size. I don't want to damage the sub with over excursion though, so any input would be great. Thanks!

Welcome! I need a box!!!!

Do you have a better pic of you wiring setup? Or can you explain exactly how you have it set up? Looking at the pic, if your red and black terminals do actually denote positive and negative, it looks like your wiring is the issue. From what I can tell it looks as if you have it wired like this. But it should look like this for a 2 ohm load. Sorry for the rough first drawing. They don't have a wiring diagram for that setup. But I think your box is too big as well. I had a btl n2 12" in a ("professionally" designed) box at about 3.9 cubes, and it would hit the lows great, but it had no top end, and it start to sound distorted past a certain level. I just never pushed it past that point due to not wanting to possibly damage the sub.

I just attributed that to the sometimes brownish tint you get when soldering. I've had it happen to me before when soldering stuff. I'm pretty sure it's not corrosion though. I would have picked up on that. I've spent some time working with metal.

Didn't think about trying that. Will do. I did check all of the solder points when I was testing it, everything seemed tight and well connected, but I will definitely try your suggestion.

Everything looks good, no burning, or tearing anywhere, I've played it and it sounds good too, not really sure whats up with this though.

Anybody else got any input.

Brand new batteries. Brand new dmm too.

I think i just pee'd a little... Stop laughing right meow!

So I picked up a 12" nightshade a few weeks ago and today I just happened to be switching the box I had it in so I figured I would put my dmm on the coils just to see what it read. The first one came out right at 1.0, but then the second one reads 1.5. Is that normal? I let it sit for a while too, they would both go up and down by .1, but would eventually rest on the resulting numbers. Is that an issue, or is it fine?

That would considerably raise the tuning going from 4ft^3 to 2.5ft^3 and not adjusting the port any. Yeah I think I'm just better off putting that box to the side for time being. I've never run a 15" before, so reconing the FI is actually a pretty good idea. I did also pick up a 12" Nightshade V2 last week, so I'll probably just run that in the mean time until I can get the FI reconed. Ram, any tips I should keep in mind when designing a daily ground pounder for the Nightshade?