audio-neon

make no mistake, i also have a four channel running as well, that runs the same amount of fuses (although rated at less power). I am also doing all of this on a alt that is nearly a decade old.

Unfortunatly due to $ constraints, new subs wont be for a little while. Those ones still had a little left in them though. Copper and new box for sure though. What do you think I should run for box Ryan? I'd say build a 5 cube box and use external aeros so you can trim em' and tune. Then stuff the box with whatever to displace some volume and start over with the ports until you find whats loudest. You'll have to find what position and frequency works best. If you're feeling ambitious, your best bet will probably be to seal the trunk and fire forward - that seems to be the way to go with trunks. That's next on my list of things to do. Did that in my car and lost .8 db's. Working on a sweet spot in my trunk now. (although running sealed till the new box is built). There is a spot in my trunk that at 45-50 hz flexxes the area right along the inside of the windsheild really well. Been playing around with that spot with the test box and hit pretty well. Silverbane: I know what you mean about cash. I would get TC sounds OEM 10" woofers instead (350 for a pair). They are effin beasts.

I think with your set-up you should take a hit in cone area and drop down to A. I should be in the mid to high 40's with two saz-1500d's and 2 10" woofers for this season, in a pretty similar vehicle (trunk and basic dimensions). To be really competitive in B wouldn't you need four 1500's or at least a pair of 3000's???

Another set of amps to look for would be a pair of Digital Designs Z1's. or the Z1a's when they come out. The pair of z1's would put you at ~10400 watts.

With a 80 amp alt in my neon, lets just say that my car CAN NOT keep up with one saz-1500D @ 1 ohm with test tones at maximum unclipped volume. Now with music it can handle it, but with voltage dipping down into the low 11 volt range on hard hits.

Welcome to SSA!

Some more christmas updates: Now running my headunit in pro-mode, to run a brand new set of Morel Impulse components in my kicks (running active). The owner of Audio Obsessions actually beat knukonceptz pricing for wiring for me (was gonna order 325 dollars worth of wiring) but he made it possible to get all of the wiring I needed and a set of Components for cheaper. So here is a pic of my new components in there new home: Soon (June-ish) they will be powered by a sax-100.4. Granted this doesn't look like a major update, but I also ran my new interconnects and all new speaker wire yesterday. SO I had about 3.5 hours of labor in the car yesterday. I still have a good 20 or so hours of tuning on the components, but don't worry, it won't get in the way of me hitting good numbers in the lanes, just made daily driving with an spl car that much more bearable.

TC Sounds OEM 10" Drivers (2 of them). Enclosure will be built next weekend. Here are some pics. Side By side with TC sounds oem 10" (left) and a Diamond Audio D1 10" (right) both dual 4 ohm.

I would say that it is never a bad idea to get a h/o alt. My priorities are just a little mixed up, so it is my last worry.

welcome to SSA

and jacob has a clearance sale going on right now, check the Sundown forum on here, I think two with full warranty are in the 800 range.

I really truly hope that it is insurance paying the 14,xxx dollars and not you out of pocket.

MY personal suggestion would be 2 Sundown Audio Saz-1500d's.

welcome to SSA

Which horns are you looking to run? Two of my audio friends are elite team members of image dynamics so I can bug them about how much power compression horns can handle, but I know the camaro that has them gives them only like 18 watts and they get loud. You might just have to get them in the 8 ohm impedance to lower the power they receive. Ohh, and when installing compression horns you want to aim them at your stomach, not your head.

hertz components would suit your build well.

here is a link to the first vid: http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...eoid=2026515661 Here is a pic of the set-up:

sure, i guess i can throw up a vid or two later on this morning.

welcome to ssa

well, i modified my test box to fit these beasts today ( i was really going through bass withdrawal). They are in a 2 cubic foot box ported to 32 hz with 24 sq inches of port ( a little peaky in the 38-44 hz range, but nothing too bad. I am really just working to break these subs in. For my spl box I will be running them with external aeroports, and about 1.2 cubic feet per driver. For daily driving, i will only be feeding each one 900 ish watts, so I will be using a custom plug (no aeroport) to fill the hole from the aero, and displace another .4 cubic feet. Anyways, for some preliminary results. Wired the pair down to one ohm (saz-1500d), and threw in ludacris's blueberry's to set the gains. Damn, these subs came to life, got the gain set (about 5/8 of the way) and my arm was starting to tingle from being so close to the woofers. Let my car sit for 10 minutes with the battery charger on, to do a nice 35-50 hz warble. My windsheild wipers were moving, my back seat looked like it was gonna open itself, everything in my car that wasn't bolted down was vibrating hard. So for some fun I decided to see how fast these subs were, so out came some atreyu for some double bass fun. Didn't miss a beat, and hit them hard. Next up was some various cd's i used for sq. Five for fighting was tossed in to listen to a few tracks to get the crossover set, and to get my bass even with my mids. Than came out the war of 1812, just because i love those cannons. When that first cannon went off, i actually jumped a little bit because of how real it sounded. Finally for some straight abuse tests, I did a 5 minute 35-45 hz slow warble, and the sub didn't even smell. Now for some of the negatives. This sub is not for anyone looking for a shallow mount woofer, it really takes the full 800 watts to get this sub to play to its potential, not the biggest fan of the open motor structure ( virtually no basket to protect the voice coil), this sub is a heavy beast, therefor meaning that you really have to attach your box to keep it from tipping. Oh, and this woofer is very picky about box size.

So here are some pics of that friends SQ car: One of her team-mates My car after being robbed of my first component set. MY first component set for competition, which sat in custom kick panels.

i agree. beware of spl competitors giving advice on sq systems lol Dude, I competed in iasca for sq for the last two years, just doing spl as a change of scenery. I know in my buddies truck he runs two sets of tweeters, as long as they are on the same horizontal axis and attenuated lower they work great. My buddy is the husband of Kristen from team image dynamics.

Front stage is the sound coming from in front of you (all of the speakers in front of you)... Since you are in a truck, all you should need is a good set of front components to achieve a desirable volume. Some kick panels will help with the path length difference, but a second set of tweets in the a-pillars might be necessary to raise the sound stage up to a desirable height.

IF i were you, i would go with a pair of TC sounds 10" OEM drivers, at 175 a woofer, they are a steal. They are amazing.