audio-neon

4 15" subs win in the cone area department... Now do you have 4000k watts total? or 4000 watts per sub. Which amp.

From personal experience with both products I still turn to ant and second skin every time I start a new project.

Start with damplifier. Its your basic sound deadening tool (although second skins sound deadening is second to none in my book). Don't worry about the paints, overkill is nice too and not too expensive to use on the back of interior panels.

Budget= box (premade or how much space do you have) power Type r's really don't have the x-max or thermal handling to be spl drivers, they are quite efficient and do ok on power but you would be much better suited to get a high efficiency soft suspension driver (sundown sd1's for example). Why 15" drivers? what type of vehicle, it all matters.

That is what I was going to say. Bank whatever you can and just hang on to it until you have your mind made up on what exactly you want to do. I basically get the best of both worlds. I get some more money in the bank, another toy and when I graduate college I can buy pretty much any car I want... It seems like more fun than buying a camaro in September, driving until november, garaging until april and paying for it for 4-5 years.

Even not taking into account what the vehicle's transfer function does, the flattest response isn't going to come ported... please expand on this !!! i know how to figure out the Res Freq of a car and tune the boxx accounting for cabin gain, but this is new to me To make a long story short, it normally involves tuning lower than resonant frequency so that the "peak" is at the same flat response level as the cabin gains "peak" Typical spl boxes try to match the peak of the box to mesh with the peak of the car to gain "maximum spl" SQ is all about removing the peaks. Also iirc bandpass boxes are also made to have their lowest output @ the vehicles resonant frequency to remove the peak.

Inefficiency is not in itself a bad thing, just something that has to be taken into consideration... More power is not always needed, the relatively low power output of a Class A amp wouldn't matter for something like an Image Dynamics HLCD because you simply don't need that much power on them anyway Can you say ear piercing loudness with 12-14 watts per hlcd. They are truly amazing.

You will most likely only notice that your class A amps are substantially hotter than your class D amps.

The camaro is still unpractical and would be a three/four year investment. I'm going back to school in the fall. Car audio on the other hand is something I'm not obligated to pay for unless I want to. I enjoy the hobby and it gets me out of the house. The change to one amp will be different but the Saz-3000d should be more than enough power for my area.

I will make this very clear, unlike last year this car won't be a rushed product. I am looking to buy a car just for audio, one that I can build from the ground up while not trying to rush to put it back together so that I can get to work. I'm not going to make any promises if I do build the car, but I am already working on the monetary details to see if it will be able to be completed before July, if not I will cut back to a single 12 and probably a single saz-3000d until the following season.

Maggies would be fun, but much like JimJ i'm broke.

Sat down with my financial advisor tonight looking at how much money I really need to put in savings to be able to afford both my camaro by the end of the summer and all of my college expenses, ouch... I miss car audio but its such an expensive hobby.

Short answer- No. Simplest solution, either use a joint for a bent port or have a couple inches sticking out the front. The reason behind this is that the tuning is affected by the volume of air the port allows to move. area is pi(r*squared). 3.14x4= 12.56 per 2" pvc tubing 3.14x16=50.24" per 4" diameter pvc tubing (simply put without going into the volume of a cylinder) **I'm sure m5 or JimJ will be able to explain it better than I did.

Damplifier pro is amazing stuff, as my last competition car was a budget build I stuck with damplifier and it is still better than anything else I have ever used.

I miss mine every single day... Someday I will be replacing my long lost memories of a pair of SaZ-1500d's with SaZ-3000d's.

As an avid amp abuser, I would not suggest trying this. It takes a crap load of math, a really good charging system etc. Not to mention that due to impedance rise its probably closer to .7-.8 ohms actual load, and that is before things start getting toasty. (I could probably cook eggs off of my amps if I ran them as low as I was running my strapped saz-1500d's after playing some jazz for 20 minutes, lower impedances are very hard on electrical systems and generate a ton of wasted heat)

Awesome product, awesome owner. Gratz on joining the SSA family.

The way sundown's contract reads with dealers states that the minimum price they can "advertise" is the msrp. Another note is that while the rf amp can do 1500 watts @ 1 ohm, the 1500D has tested an average of 1700 watts @ 1ohm. PM denim for a price. I can not say how much the price is as I don't know it, I used to be part of team sundown audio and only know the team prices (as they were when I was on the team).

after visiting the shop website, make sure to pm soundsolutions audio for the best price.

That sounds great! Not a whole lotta people do 10's anymore. I personally like smaller setups that get loud. For loud, I only do 10's... for sq i would like to try an 18" but not for volume, for low frequency extension.

You need to refine the order of importance of all around if price were first, i would be going soundsplinter/mach 5. if spl were first I would be going Sundown sd1-12, fi ssd, etc no sub is ideal for every person its up to the person's ears and wallet. The "perfect" sub to me is something in an 18"+ variety in infinite baffle that plays sub-sonic single hertz frequencies with ease and has a sharp roll off around 65hz.

I've never been one to rush an sq build, sure i'm interested. I'll see what kind of deal i can get for you on that Audison 5.1 too. I need to be good, i'm already looking at one of jacobs prototype subs which if I went that route would easily kill my budget just to keep my ears happy. I'm leaning towards hertz speakers or going the active route. I could even go active with the hertz speakers but I would probably go with Image dynamics horns depending on price and a pair of dls or something to that effect 7" mids.

I remember my 300lb build getting in his port with no trouble at all. Personal favorite was him going in the port post runs with a flashlight to make sure nothing went poof.

PM me a price on that 8454... it isn't the 55, but is it still active capable?

New old car still has factory deck... 1.5 din to work with, 6.75" door speaker opening factory in front doors. Target max budget, who cares, lol. Spent 6 grand last spring on my spl stint. 2grand seems like the max i'd be willing to spend on a beater tho. Any tweeter size limitations? I shouldn't have asked max, I really meant by what do you mean cheap max. You say $1k but it includes the amp and sub, I was referring to the "cheap" front stage portion. Also knowing the processing would help, I assume it is your 8455... Planning on fiberglassing door pods since i have tons of glass and stuff laying around. large format tweets should fit possibly even a 7" midrange. its all just in the thinking process i really hate having no sound though. I was thinking like 400 for the front soundstage, don't have any processing capabilities right now. I'll go look at decks and compare my options unless someone has an h701 with supporting deck for around 400-500$. I was thinking for subs i would once again bug my buddy jacob and try out 2 sd 10"s either isobaric or a small ported box tuned to 32hz. Processing choice first, drivers second. Don't you have an 8455? 8455 was sold with car. I have pm'd the current owner of the car about buying it back though as its an sq deck and not a spl deck. Option #2 findind a cheap hatch and playing around with street A again. (compete against my old car, lol)