audio-neon

?????? Unless the power applied to each coil was far from the same, it will not still play. The magnetic forces of each coil cancel, and it will not do anything to the cone. . . In my case it was 1 of 4 subs in a common chamber that was wired backwards (but only one of the voice coils of the two was wired backwards. The sub literally ripped the surround, the dust cap came off etc... And this was on a low power substage (120 watts rms per sub).

Just sitting here bored as hell, designing a couple didn't spl enclosures... I can't find my formula sheet for all of t/s parameters so no dimensions, more or less a couple didn't bracing ideas.

I don't and that other box has already been used in another toy project of mine... Still driving a neon, a 95 I had laying around the yard. I hate it, lol.

End of june is my timeline too, lol.

Or leave the current 4ga. use it for your 4ch. amp and use a dedicated 1/0 run for your saz-1500d. I would definitely upgrade the battery/alternator when they fail.

You could prolly find a donor transmission pretty cheap... Running a single 12" sundown nightshade.

to SSA

pics please, are you sure that the coils weren't wired opposite on each side? I have done it before and the sub is fighting itself, it will still play and all but it is literally tearing itself apart.

New Street A... 1 amp. (1 saz-3000d, 1 battery) Matt, i'm looking for a crx. Sorry to hear about the transmission, never had any problems with that in neons (except for the one i beat the crap out of.)

capacitors are useful if you are using a lead acid battery with a more than adequate charging system, once you get into batteries like stinger/kinetic etc... they are capable of keeping up with the demanding current needs or a decent/high powered substage.

I agree that you get what you pay for, I would however choose damplifier (the regular stuff) over dynamat xtreme, and damplifier pro is the best product I have ever touched for sound deadening.

what kind of power will you be feeding the icon?

lol, so I take it your done competing? No, did a little last year. Just don't think life will allow me to this year. I hear you there, competing is strenuous on schedule's and finances.

lol, so I take it your done competing?

On a note about rear fill, if you do decide to do it, try and run the same style speakers and just run them off deck power, it should be enough for fill and not too much to notice.

For a general rule of thumb with aero ports I try to have 1/3 or more port area as cone area. so 3 4" aero ports, or 2 6" aero ports would be my minimum recommendation.

boredom in the real world, so in the intraweb my attention shall be focused.

tiny power for those subs, make sure you aren't distorting stuff to make it loud enough for your tastes.

The reason why you see so many re-cone requests on the Fi forum is because they do such an amazing job at re-coning. Many people also clip the hell out of the signal they send to their btl's with cheaper amps (not naming any names but you see it a lot).

I myself have never had issues with 8v pre-outs on any amps. Even my saz-1500d's strapped. A DD m1, a eclipse xa1000 etc... Any high quality amp should take 8v preouts as long as you aren't being stupid with it.

Who needs an AC... If i wasn't building a street A car and could have my car running, I would gladly drop the AC for a second alternator.

Come on denim, where are the pics.

I don't think at this time there is any support for the zune in the car audio world, there maybe something hidden in a dark closet somewhere though.

Seeing as I don't know anything about your set-up, I am going to offer this advice, wait a couple weeks. Take pride in your system don't just toss things in there because the cost is right. You got a fully loaded spl sub so that it would sound ok. You have a 140 amp alternator... I'm gonna guess that this is a truck/suv and a factory option b/c 140amps really isn't that much. What do you have for a battery. Your system is only as good as its weakest link. I would really push for an amp that is capable of 2500 watts minimum for this sub as it is an spl sub and has a stiff suspension so that when strapped to 10kw it doesn't go boom. Biggest suggestion, wait a couple of weeks, save up a couple hundred more dollars and get an amp you won't be replacing in 6 months-1year.

They do slightly but in this case at 1 ohm nominal load before impedance rise a pair of saz-1500d's would be strapped and running .5 ohm nominal impedances each voiding the warranty for a couple hundred watts.